Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Testing the FIPL...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-26-2011, 09:20 PM
Powerstroke-7.3's Avatar
Powerstroke-7.3
Powerstroke-7.3 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Testing the FIPL...

I am testing the FIPLE on my friends 94 7.3 Turbo diesel. He gave me a briefe description about what he read but I am looking for a straight answer. It is reading 0.019v one center wire with key on engine off and pedal to the floor. Is there a different way to do this and what should it be reading? Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 05-27-2011, 01:11 AM
Dark Horse's Avatar
Dark Horse
Dark Horse is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I am not certain but I think this is what you are looking for:

Before or after overhaul, harsh engagements and shifts.
Upshifts late and harsh. No LU and no 3-4 shift.
Cause
TPS (throttle position sensor) or FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) sensors bad or out of
range.
Note
If the controller sees a problem with TPS or FIPL sensors, or the voltage to the sensors is
too low or high it puts the transmission in FMEM (failure management effects mode). In
other words, it sets the transmission to high line pressure (about 150 psi) to protect it
from damage. The controller will not take the transmission out of FMEM until the sensor
/ circuit is repaired.
Important
Early model controllers did not have FMEM. That meant if you had a bad TPS or FIPL
that wouldn't send a voltage increase signal back to the controller you had no line rise. No
line rise causes the unit to fail real fast. This was a common problem on 7.3L diesels that
used a black PIPE sensor. Ford updated the sensor. Always replace the black FIPL sensor
with the updated gray one. Ford part # F2TZ-9B989-C.
Also
FIPL adjustment is critical to the life of this transmission. An incorrectly adjusted FIPL
can alter line pressure up to 15 psi. The easiest and quickest way to correctly adjust it is
with a scanner. You will also need the gauge block from Ford, which keeps the throttle
from opening all the way. The gauge block part # is T92T-7B200-AH or you can use any
thing that measures .515" thick.
CLARIFICATION NOTE: YOU DO NOT USE THE .515" GAUGE BLOCK
WHEN USING THE DVOM METHOD TO ADJUST THE TPS/FIPL. PLEASE
SEE ADDENDUM AT BOTTOM OF PAGE BEFORE STARTING ANY
PROCEDURE.
Correction
Check TPS/FIPL
Here's how
1. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
2. Turn Key to on position (do not start engine).
3. Set meter to DC volts/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to TPS/FIPL sensor for test.

4. Probe black wire on 3-wire connector with red lead of meter. Must be less than .1
volts (that's 1/10 of a volt not l volt). Will probably read in milli-volts. This is the
ground wire. If more then .1 volts, ground is bad.
5. Now probe the orange wire. Must be close to 5 volts. This is reference voltage
sent from the controller. No voltage means an open wire between the sensor and
the controller. Low voltage means the wire is shorted to ground.
6. Check the green wire. It should be around 1 volt. Leave the red lead hooked up to
the wire and steadily open the throttle until it is wide open. You should see a
steady increase in voltage up to 4 to 4.5 volts, with no fluctuation. Be careful! If
you open the throttle to fast the DVOM will probably show 0 voltage or out of
limits. This is normal. If the voltage does not increase at all the TPS/FIPL is bad. If
it is below 1 volt and never gets to 4 volts, it might just need to be adjusted.
To Adjust FIPL if you don't have a scanner:
1. Loosen FIPL adjustment bolts.
2. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to FIPL.
3. Turn key to on position (do not start engine).
4. Set DVOM to DC volts/ 0 to 40 volt scale.
5. Probe green wire (center wire) with red lead of meter.
6. Idle- 1.1 to 1.4 volts.
7. Wide open throttle- 4.1 to 4.5 volts.
ADDENDUM TO ABOVE TEST AND ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE (Provided by
direct experience from Ford Truck Enthusiast Message Board Member, RxF, which may
help you get insight and verify what your own Throttle Position Sensor or Fuel Injection
Pump Lever sensor is doing. Note: this was taken from a thread in the Pre-Powerstroke
Diesel Section but should mostly apply to the TPS on gasoline engines as well; edited
some for succinctity)
A Note on the Gauge Block:
If using a DVOM to adjust the FIPL sensor, you DO NOT use the .515" gauge block. The
gauge block is only used when adjusting the FIPL sensor with a Scanner Tool. WOT
(Wide Open Throttle) is literally when the Fuel Injection Pump Lever is moved all the
way from it's idle position to when the Maximum Throttle Set Screw (DO NOT ADJUST)
makes contact with the Injection Pump Maximum Throttle Stop.
" The gauge block is only used with the 'scanner tool' or a resistance adjustment
procedure I've seen. From reading that procedure (the above procedure not in italics), it
was not initially clear to me that this was to be done without the gauge block. The
confusion came because the DVOM voltage adjustment procedure was described as an
alternative to the (preferred) scanner-tool procedure. The scanner procedure was
described first and mandated the gauge block use. The verbage should have made it clear
not to use it when performing the alternate procedure.
The following was verified on my truck:
Reference Voltage= 5.04volts
Ground Terminal Voltage was 18 millivolts (.018 volts) after cleaning grounds.
So the system environment I put the FIPL sensor into is good.
Final Adjusted FIPL sensor results:
Idle: 1.33v, WOT: 4.03v
These numbers were the best I could get with the 2 FIPL sensors I had, one not too old
and the other brand new.
The FIPL sensors (either one) have a Resistance Total equal to about 4.57kilohms.
There is just about 1.1 miliamps (1.1028 ma) of current drawn from the reference supply.
With the gauge block in place, the FIPL sensor had a Center Terminal to Ground
Resistance of 1.9 kilohms. Then, with voltage applied, the center terminal generated 2.25
volts with the gauge block in place. THIS MEANS THE GAUGE BLOCK PUTS YOU IN
A MID-THROTTLE STATE.
HELPFUL HINTS:
1. Probing the FIPL sensor Voltages: Do this from the back (wire side) of the FIPL
sensor. There is a polyurethane grommet that is grey in color which the 3 wires enter the
harness connector through. This grommet is easily removed with a screwdriver w/o
damage. When done with testing/adjustment, apply a slight film dielectric grease on outer
edge of grommet to ease insertion into 3-wire harness connector and provide an
improved seal.
2. Prior to adjusting the FIPL sensor, disconnect the electrical connection to the Fast
Idle Solenoid. This ensures that when you have the ignition switch on, the solenoid
plunger does not engage and there will be no voltage discrepancies when adjusting the
FIPL sensor idle voltage. Be sure to re-connect the fast idle solenoid once you've gotten
the FIPL sensor adjusted."
Part Number
FIPL Sensor
Ford # F2TZ-9B989-C

Hope this helps
 

Last edited by Dark Horse; 05-27-2011 at 01:17 AM. Reason: fix format prob
  #3  
Old 05-27-2011, 10:24 AM
Country_boy_2007's Avatar
Country_boy_2007
Country_boy_2007 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: C-ville, ohio
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
im so glad i have a ZF 5
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dutyhole
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
5
03-03-2017 01:09 PM
awolin
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
01-16-2017 04:26 PM
heythere2321
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
2
10-27-2016 04:21 AM
bluetoxin
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
3
01-31-2016 06:33 AM
91_diesel_7.3
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
01-16-2010 07:34 AM



Quick Reply: Testing the FIPL...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:43 AM.