What's My Next Step..?
#1
What's My Next Step..?
Hello everyone!
The 351w & C6 tranny are in...
For giggles, I tried firing it up over the weekend but was not successful - I don't know why it was running prior to the transplant. Appears not to be getting spark... Is there some component I am overlooking?
I called around and auto parts personnel I spoke with believe I should drop an Accel Distributor. Will this truly take care of things? What are the pros & cons of this change should I go with it?
Thank you,
Paul
The 351w & C6 tranny are in...
For giggles, I tried firing it up over the weekend but was not successful - I don't know why it was running prior to the transplant. Appears not to be getting spark... Is there some component I am overlooking?
I called around and auto parts personnel I spoke with believe I should drop an Accel Distributor. Will this truly take care of things? What are the pros & cons of this change should I go with it?
Thank you,
Paul
#3
Here is a photo of a module that some beleive I am missing in order to get spark. But to answer your question, there is no spark anywhere.
I am not certain if you are familiar with my skills - practically none (for the record I'm good at taking things apart and cleaning them) - so at times I find it dificult to even formulate the right question.
Thank you for your interest / help.
Paul
#4
What year is your 351? It was 1984 that Ford started putting computers into their trucks etc. I think there was some computer control in passenger cars back to 1978.
The module you have a picture of is for the Duraspark II system which was pre-computer. I really like the simplicity of this system.
Your coil will be cylindrical. Duraspark II distributors look like this.
Duraspark II
Does your distributor have a rectangle on the side of it with wires going to it? If so you have an EEC IV system which is computer controlled even if carbureted. People have had lots of problems with this system.
This distributor has the rectangle and wiring on it.
EEC IV
Your coil will be squarish also.
The module you have a picture of is for the Duraspark II system which was pre-computer. I really like the simplicity of this system.
Your coil will be cylindrical. Duraspark II distributors look like this.
Duraspark II
Does your distributor have a rectangle on the side of it with wires going to it? If so you have an EEC IV system which is computer controlled even if carbureted. People have had lots of problems with this system.
This distributor has the rectangle and wiring on it.
EEC IV
Your coil will be squarish also.
#5
What year is your 351? It was 1984 that Ford started putting computers into their trucks etc. I think there was some computer control in passenger cars back to 1978.
The module you have a picture of is for the Duraspark II system which was pre-computer. I really like the simplicity of this system.
Your coil will be cylindrical. Duraspark II distributors look like this.
Duraspark II
Does your distributor have a rectangle on the side of it with wires going to it? If so you have an EEC IV system which is computer controlled even if carbureted. People have had lots of problems with this system.
This distributor has the rectangle and wiring on it.
EEC IV
Your coil will be squarish also.
The module you have a picture of is for the Duraspark II system which was pre-computer. I really like the simplicity of this system.
Your coil will be cylindrical. Duraspark II distributors look like this.
Duraspark II
Does your distributor have a rectangle on the side of it with wires going to it? If so you have an EEC IV system which is computer controlled even if carbureted. People have had lots of problems with this system.
This distributor has the rectangle and wiring on it.
EEC IV
Your coil will be squarish also.
#6
No problem! That's what we are all here for.
You have the Duraspark II setup.
Your coil is on the bottom right of that picture. You will need an ignition control module (you posted a picture of one previously) which should have been located on the inner fender of your donor. An ICM is a 20 dollar part and so is a coil.
Are you sure you have all your grounds connected? Your battery negative cable should go to your block, you should have a ground from the block to the frame, from your body to the frame, and one from your alternator to the block or frame.
If you do not have an Ignition Control Module hooked up then that is why you don't have spark.
You have the Duraspark II setup.
Your coil is on the bottom right of that picture. You will need an ignition control module (you posted a picture of one previously) which should have been located on the inner fender of your donor. An ICM is a 20 dollar part and so is a coil.
Are you sure you have all your grounds connected? Your battery negative cable should go to your block, you should have a ground from the block to the frame, from your body to the frame, and one from your alternator to the block or frame.
If you do not have an Ignition Control Module hooked up then that is why you don't have spark.
#7
No problem! That's what we are all here for.
You have the Duraspark II setup.
Your coil is on the bottom right of that picture. You will need an ignition control module (you posted a picture of one previously) which should have been located on the inner fender of your donor. An ICM is a 20 dollar part and so is a coil.
Are you sure you have all your grounds connected? Your battery negative cable should go to your block, you should have a ground from the block to the frame, from your body to the frame, and one from your alternator to the block or frame.
If you do not have an Ignition Control Module hooked up then that is why you don't have spark.
You have the Duraspark II setup.
Your coil is on the bottom right of that picture. You will need an ignition control module (you posted a picture of one previously) which should have been located on the inner fender of your donor. An ICM is a 20 dollar part and so is a coil.
Are you sure you have all your grounds connected? Your battery negative cable should go to your block, you should have a ground from the block to the frame, from your body to the frame, and one from your alternator to the block or frame.
If you do not have an Ignition Control Module hooked up then that is why you don't have spark.
I will remove the ECM from the donor (van) and look at the recomendations you have given about the ground situation.
Paul
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#9
Morning Alcaeus,
I removed the module.
1. Where should I install it on the truck?
2. There are two (2) connection things that I had to unplug on the donor van (practically break the hold down things to make them come apart) and wonder if I need to purchase new ones or do I unravel them from the van and use them in the truck (I don't know what they connect to) obviously the module but what else - if anything?
Haven't done much out of frustration...
Paul
I removed the module.
1. Where should I install it on the truck?
2. There are two (2) connection things that I had to unplug on the donor van (practically break the hold down things to make them come apart) and wonder if I need to purchase new ones or do I unravel them from the van and use them in the truck (I don't know what they connect to) obviously the module but what else - if anything?
Haven't done much out of frustration...
Paul
#10
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Comox Valley, Canada
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Ok my turn to help Hope this doesn't cloud the issue.
2 connectors on the module one has a red wire and a white wire, red gets 12 volts with key in run and start, white one is optional it retards timing for easier starts.... but do not worry about it yet. The other connector goes direct to the distributor, you can steal the harness that goes from that connector to the distributor from the parts van.
The coil has 12 volts to the + terminal from a source that gets 12 volts with key in run/start, eventually you will need a ballast resistor to drop the voltage during engine running, it reduces the running voltage and extends coil life.
1969 Ford F250 4x4 - Ballast Resistor Schematic
Duraspark II Conversion Basics
The above links will show how to wire up your truck.
2 connectors on the module one has a red wire and a white wire, red gets 12 volts with key in run and start, white one is optional it retards timing for easier starts.... but do not worry about it yet. The other connector goes direct to the distributor, you can steal the harness that goes from that connector to the distributor from the parts van.
The coil has 12 volts to the + terminal from a source that gets 12 volts with key in run/start, eventually you will need a ballast resistor to drop the voltage during engine running, it reduces the running voltage and extends coil life.
1969 Ford F250 4x4 - Ballast Resistor Schematic
Duraspark II Conversion Basics
The above links will show how to wire up your truck.
#11
Depends on what connection things you're looking at/talking about. There should be a red and white wire together, the white gets power from the ignition only when cranking, on my truck I hooked it up to the starter button. The red wire gets connected to the positive side of the coil. There is a three wire plug that connects to the distributor, the colors are orange purple and black. Finally the green wire gets hooked up to the negative side of the coil.I just did this in my 55 and it's finally running.
Here's a good diagram of what you need to do. Sorry I don't know how to do the fancy blue making what the link is link.
http://www.google.com/m?gl=us&source...CBYQ7AkwAA#i=4
Here's a good diagram of what you need to do. Sorry I don't know how to do the fancy blue making what the link is link.
http://www.google.com/m?gl=us&source...CBYQ7AkwAA#i=4