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DP Tuner Hard Shift???

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Old May 24, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #16  
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Both the overboost code (P0472 I think) and the HPO above/below desired code (P1211) will trigger the SES, then turn off after a while. I didn't think the OBS trucks defueled in overboost conditions but I might be wrong. How much boost were you making when the SES light kicked on? If you ran out of oil, it's most likely because your HPOP isn't able to feed enough oil to the injectors. Cheapest easiest fix for that is a T-500 pump from Joey at Terminator Engineering.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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I was pushing 25 easy... needle was climbing FAST past 20-22 lbs so i am sure it went over 25. is that normal with the Mods in my sig? Is that too much/not enough? Thanks Guys!!!
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Pulled from DP Site...

"No Code" Tunes- FREE and automatically assumed unless you advise otherwise
- Same as the normal tune but with 3 SES codes, P1211(icp<>desired, P1249(Overboost) P0478(Exhaust back pressure) turned off under normal driving conditions. This does NOT disable the SES light from coming on for any other operation or code.

Does this mean that it should not have thrown the code? Or is pushing 25Lbs considered to be out of the "Normal" driving conditions?
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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25lbs would not be normal driving conditions. I've not ran into the defueling chase mentioned and I've hit 33 before. I'm still guessing 1211 code.

I'd say your boost numbers are real good with stock injectors. You'll need bigger oil like chase said if that is the code
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #20  
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is the T500 the best recommended? I see one at Riffraff for 275 core. Anyone know the turn around time omn one of these as well?
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 02:20 PM
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If you have a CA emissions truck (I'm guessing you do) then 25 psi is not unheard of. If Jody set you up with the no codes tunes, it shouldn't have set the code for overboost or ICP above/below desired but sometimes things don't work quite like they should. I'd find out if you have any trans mods done and have Jody re-burn the chip for you.
The T500 is the most affordable "medium" oil option out there. Maybe not the best in everyone's eyes, but it's reliable and affordable and Joey has great customer service as well. Turn around time shouldn't be very long at all, about a week. Joey is in Modesto, CA so maybe even less if he ships direct to you instead of through Clay.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 02:34 PM
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Thanks Chase, I will def look into this. What are the other "moderate" priced HPOP options. I saw the Bosh 17* threough Clay for 5 bills. is there a perf upgrade? I would eventually like Stage 1's so if need to upgrade now it wouldn't be for a waste. Is the T500 a good fit for Stage 1's?
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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T500 will support stage 1's just fine. The next closest thing I know of in price to a T500 is the new Bosch pump from Clay that you referenced, the Adrenaline (about $700 IIRC) or the SRP1 from Stealth (nearly the same price as the Adrenaline I believe).
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #24  
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T500 sounds like the best choice for me... lol 700 is too rich for my blood right now. Thanks for the advise Chase!!
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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Just don't tell Joey or Clay that I turned you on to the T500 or they'll charge you more!
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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hahaha.....
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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I think I am just going to pony up and get the T500. i had to pull the chip and send it back to Jody last night so I can't re-create the code. It was gone when i left for work yesterday. I am hoping this fixes the issue, would have liked to troubleshoot a little more, but DP is closed for the next week and a half starting Monday. Jody said if I could get it to him by Friday he would have is on its way back within the same day. Love the customer service btw... if I haven't said that enough already!!

Whats the skill level required to R&R the HPOP?
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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HPOP swap is pretty easy. Remove intake spyder, remove fuel bowl, unbolt the HPOP lines from the pump, unbolt the gear, remove pump, reverse.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-part-1-a.html
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 03:18 PM
  #29  
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Thanks again Chase, tried to rep ya but not able to yet, I'll get ya when I can!
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Follow that thread and you'll be good. Tighten the gear bolt just like cody did. I think the torque spec is actually less than that 160. I think its like 90 iirc. Only thing i like to tell people is when you tighten the gear bolt, the motor will turn over when it gets somewhat tight. It still needs to be tighter than that. IIRC, I put a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt and wedged it against the frame and tightened it some more. Took it loose the same way by the way.
 
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