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STUDS install soon....need ideas

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Old May 19, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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STUDS install soon....need ideas

I eventually will take the plunge and do studs on my truck. I have been into the top end of the truck (intake manifold/turbo etc off) to do the EGR delete from FCDP... but eventually will do studs as I am getting degas puking when towing untuned, but not overheating.

Anyway, aside from updating/replacing the oil cooler and screen I was considering upgrading injectors. From what I understand the stock injector nozzles are programmed to spray so much and have the potential of much more power but want to keep my truck EGT's reasonable and still tow my big 5th wheel (4" straight pipe)....is it really necessary to upgrade injectors if I am not upgrading the turbo? Is it a good idea to get a towing nozzle or is it even worth it?

The next definite upgrade is going to be an ADII just for the filtration features and also for preventative measures.....again is this really necessary if I plan to keep stock injectors and am running 68psi @ idle 60 @WOT with ERIC's SRL?

Just looking for ideas

Thanks
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 11:41 PM
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My opinion: If your not going to upgrade the turbo, upgrading the injectors is a waste of time and money. The stock injectors have no problem keeping your stock turbo at max boost levels. If you upgrade the turbo and injectors, you'll create more cylinder pressure, which equal higher EGTs. If your looking for a boost in power, and lowering your EGTs, consider getting a water/methanol injection like the Snow Performance Stage 2 system. You can get it for around $450. It can increase your hp by as much as 70, and lower your EGTs by as much as 150*. This is my next mod, since my trucks main purpose is towing my 23' travel trailer.
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 07:25 AM
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From what I read and somewhat understood it is best to replace both with matched units for best performance and gains.

How does one know if their injectors are operating smoothly or need replacing?

My truck starts fine, runs smooth, gets new fuel filters every 9-10k, has great power and gets synthetic oil every 5k
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 07:52 AM
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My truck ran bad when cold. So I knew I had an injector issue. I chose to replace all my injectors while it was apart. It also has 170000 on it so there is some internal wear to consider also.
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 08:32 AM
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if you upgrade injectors you need to do the turbo to keep egts down. and when you get an airdog make sure you get the 130/75 becuase the 165/75 is giving few people problems and you have to run a sump in the tank because it sucks so much fuel
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by joetech
My truck ran bad when cold. So I knew I had an injector issue. I chose to replace all my injectors while it was apart. It also has 170000 on it so there is some internal wear to consider also.
-interesting....I figured if injectors were bad they would be affected throughout the entire temperature range, not just during cold starts.
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rdunagan
if you upgrade injectors you need to do the turbo to keep egts down. and when you get an airdog make sure you get the 130/75 because the 165/75 is giving few people problems and you have to run a sump in the tank because it sucks so much fuel
That is the only problem.....that would put my build at 4k+ over what I needed to spend. I think for what I am doing at most replacing the injectors with stock nozzles might be more cost effective. I only have 57k on the truck and as mentioned, it runs strong and since I switched to synthetic the cold starts are night and day.


What do you guys think?

-ARPs
-Headgaskets (OEM or??)
-Intake gaskets (I know theyre resuable but for 15.00 not worth it to not)
-ADII (maybe) at this point my pump is running solid and FP is 68psi and @ 650.00 might wait on this
-oil cooler
-SS screen
-turbo rebuild (already have the kit from gpopshop)
*already have a full EGR FCDP delete/coolant filter/CCV reroute

If i am missing anything feel free to add or recommend.

Thanks guys
Joe
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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I like the oem gaskets. I would rather throw the bolts away than buy the aftermarket gaskets. Definitely buy new intake gaskets. I bought the valve grind set from ford and it came with everything but the intake set and the valve cover gaskets. If you have the 2 grand get the bulletproof oil cooler also.
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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Best prices I've seen:


Oil Cooler: Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Gaskets: Tousley Ford Parts Depot
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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Thanks mah77,

I'll keep the page.....

joetech,

what is the valve grind set you speak of?
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 05:25 PM
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The valve grind set is the ford name for a headgasket set. It comes with head gaskets and bolts rocker box gaskets injector and glow plug seals misc other seals and gaskets like turbo drain tube fuel filter housing egr seals and gaskets turbo mounting bolts. All you need to buy to change every gasket would be an intake set and v/c gaskets. I bought a/m v/c gaskets because they came with new grommets.
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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Joe,

I'd leave the injectors alone for now - it's a lot of extra money and they are not that old - I've been told we should get 100K mi out of our injectors. Get the heads decked when they are off. I have read a lot of good things about the OEM HGs. I forget what yr your truck is, but you might consider changing to the updated STC fitting and dummy plugs if that applies. I would definitely get the updated turbo supply and drain tubes if you don't already have them. Good luck!
 
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Old May 20, 2011 | 09:55 PM
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Hi guys,

I have a 2004 so I don't think the STC fitting applies to my year...believe it was 2005 +.....joetech....the grommets you speak of....where do they go?

I think I would go as far as replacing the glow plugs since they are 12.00 a piece. Now I am not sure how it works, machine shops will disassemble the heads and deck them or do I disassemble them and take them apart?
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 03:08 AM
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You just get them off the engine.Shop will take care of everything else.Be sure they understand they need to grind the valve tips the same amount they cut the deck.and shim the valve springs.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 07:04 AM
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Very good point BobsF350.....

How one forgets the procedures....I never sent any of my stuff in personally, my first auto repair boss (20 years ago) handled it all.
 
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