When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need to get serious and add a pyro to my ride. Is there one better than the next? I've looked at Bankspower web site. Superduty shows one isspro type with a 1500 degree limit and color codes. Than there's one on isspro web site with an 1800 degree limit. I thing I'd like to get boost, engine oil and trans temp gauge also. I pull a trailer with loads up to 19K with my truck and I know I shouldn't be doing it without at least a pyro.
1800 is just for the extra range. Anything above 1600 for very long (15sec or so)with that much load. There are going to be alot of melted pistons. That particular gauge would be more at home in a semi. Much more durable engines.
I would say the 1800 isnt really necessary unless you have big sticks, exhuast, a chip, etc and no IC. A guy with that setup hit 1800 on the dyno about a month or so ago, but not many trucks really see that high of egt's. Plus his was having fueling problems.
Thanks Glenn....nice to know. Of course it's been running that way for the last 6 months without me knowing it. Now it's just up there for me to see. DP will go in once my back heals. Big charity yard sale. Picked up a sofa wrong. No working on the truck for quite some time. Lost the whole holiday weekend which was when I had time set aside to do the install. BOO HISS .
I need to get serious and add a pyro to my ride. Is there one better than the next? I've looked at Bankspower web site. Superduty shows one isspro type with a 1500 degree limit and color codes. Than there's one on isspro web site with an 1800 degree limit. I thing I'd like to get boost, engine oil and trans temp gauge also. I pull a trailer with loads up to 19K with my truck and I know I shouldn't be doing it without at least a pyro.
I think a fuel PSI gauge is much more important than oil pressure myself, but I agree on the other 3 choices. Clay at Riffraff has good pricing on Isspro's.
Yup...that link did me just fine. I bought a new tap at Lowe's along with a fresh drill to go with it. The article recommends going slow with the drill so you don't bust through all of a sudden and scatter shavings in the manifold. Then use a glop of grease on the tap. I went slow with the tap cleaning the shavings/grease off and putting on new grease every now and then. Really was not as hard/scary as I had myself thinking it would be. EYE PROTECTION is a must!
Last edited by jtexfisher; Jun 7, 2011 at 04:02 PM.
Reason: added note
Yup...that link did me just fine. I bought a new tap at Lowe's along with a fresh drill to go with it. The article recommends going slow with the drill so you don't bust through all of a sudden and scatter shavings in the manifold. Then use a glop of grease on the tap. I went slow with the tap cleaning the shavings/grease off and putting on new grease every now and then. Really was not as hard/scary as I had myself thinking it would be. EYE PROTECTION is a must!
DON'T GREASE THE TAP! If your hole is pointing downward like 99% of the installs done, leave the tap dry and let the chips fall. 95% of them will fall to the ground, if any of them happen to make it into the up pipe they will get spit out the exhaust without hurting the turbo one bit.
DON'T GREASE THE TAP! If your hole is pointing downward like 99% of the installs done, leave the tap dry and let the chips fall. 95% of them will fall to the ground, if any of them happen to make it into the up pipe they will get spit out the exhaust without hurting the turbo one bit.
Agree with that, if you grease the drill or the tap, the chips will mix with the grease, then goes inside the manifold and glue there, and is almost impossible to take them out, insted at the end of the drilling, use some vac to aspirate the chips and then a little magnet, and the residual chips, if any, will get spit out as Chase said.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.