air injection rail

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Old 05-16-2011, 02:40 PM
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air injection rail

the air injection rail on my 92 300 is cracked in a few spots and needs replacing. my mechanic told me it would be 4 hours of work for him to do it. i looked at it and im pretty sure i can do it myself. it looks like you just have to take off the top of the intake plenum and the throttle body. is there anything else im missing? do those weird studs that screw into the head just screw out? of course it looks straight forward, but it will probably end up taking me all day like everything else

also- would a badly cracked air injection rail make noise? my truck sounds like it has an exhaust manifold leak, but my exhaust manis are new, as well as the intake/exhaust gasket. this cracked rail really seems like the only thing left that could make noise.
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:34 PM
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I've taken the rail off a couple times from engines in the junk yard while I'm digging for EFI exhaust manifolds. It seems really straight forward and easy (never put one back on). I can get to the exhaust manifolds themselves in about an hour or less, I can't imagine it taking 4 hours to replace the A.I.R.

And yeah, I've heard they can make some pretty good noise when they get holes in them.
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:47 PM
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I simply found a bolt.washer combo, and tacked it onto the pipe....Then used RTV sealant to seal it off....I guess I'm a tree hater now..
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:34 PM
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okay. theres some metal bracket that comes up past the valve cover on the passenger side of my motor. i have a feeling its gonna get in the way. how do these threaded bolt things work? i dont see how they tighten down onto the rail.
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:44 PM
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my two cents.... upper plenum comes off. once you take all of the stuff that you need to to do that, you will have enough room to do what you need to do to take the air tube off. on my engine swap that i did this past winter it took a line wrench to get enough grip to spin them loose. a regular combination wrench just rounded the flats off. the hex heads unscrew and spin around the tubes going down into the head. yes its as straight forward as it seems. any brackets can be taken off as you need to. no need to really worry about much. pb blaster and taking your time goes a long way.

and yes that air tube leaking can make alot of noise. i have the air tube to my cats disconnected and hanging loose. once it switches to that hose from the head its audible standing out side of the truck.
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:12 PM
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somebody actually told me to just take a hacksaw or sawzall and cut off the 6 skinny tubes that come off the big tube in order to get a socket in there and speed things up
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
somebody actually told me to just take a hacksaw or sawzall and cut off the 6 skinny tubes that come off the big tube in order to get a socket in there and speed things up

I may end up doing that...And red loctiting some small bolts and threading them in....To tidy things up
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:25 PM
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so long as your socket is a 6 point you bet. but im paranoid after this past winter. fire wall may get in the way once you get to the number 6 hole. but its still a good suggestion if you have a new one to replace it with.
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l
I may end up doing that...And red loctiting some small bolts and threading them in....To tidy things up
so your gonna plug up the holes?
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
so your gonna plug up the holes?
Yeah...My AIR system went bye bye
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l
Yeah...My AIR system went bye bye
does it still run okay? hows your idle? i actually thought about deleting my air system but i already bought the parts lol
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
does it still run okay? hows your idle? i actually thought about deleting my air system but i already bought the parts lol
They all will run all fugged up for a few minutes at idle....Then the computer compensates, and the idle smoothes out...

No problems....And I already had a new belt to eliminate the smog pump...
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:35 PM
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hey sidewinder.
do you have a check engine light on? whats the part number for the belt you used? does your truck have ac?
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:48 PM
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No
IDK
Yea

Sorry to be vague...But I simply did the swap at a Car-Quest....Undid the belt from around the SMOG pump, and pulled the belt taut again....took it in that way, and matched it...No issues since...

Also, idk why, but my dad keeps screaming that I am turning the water pump BACKWARDS, yet if you look at the belt routing, the belt turns the WP left to right with EVERYTHING attached....And with the SMOG pump/ A/C Compressor undone, it turns right to left...W-T-F...

2 trucks did like this and no overheating issues whatsoever...As I just said, I just acted as if i were deleting the A/C, when in all honesty, I was delteing the SMOG pump...same diff....Just measure how I specified...No probs then....I'll check for a part # today....
 
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Old 05-17-2011, 12:10 AM
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thank you. im good with vague. my truck is a custom with no ac but im sure i can match a belt up too. thanks again.
 


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