So I swapped out my front Dana 44 for a Dana 60 in my 74 4x4 F250 with one that I got out of a 79 and I ran across a few things I didn't expect. First of all I did a complete rebuild on the 60 and it bolted right in perfectly.

1. When I went to hook up the brake lines I noticed that the thread pattern on the brake lines was one size smaller than the female part on the new brake line, I assume that I will just need to change these out, or do they have an adapter of some kind?

2. The yolk on the 60 has a significantly wider u-joint seat than the 44 did, I assume that I will need to switch out the u-joint with one similar to the one I took off the 79?

3. The shock on the passenger side mounts towards the front of the axel on the 60 whereas it mounted to the rear on the 44, it looks like I can move the shock tower forward on the frame rail to get this one to line up?

4. Since I also plan to convert the rear brakes to disc also, can I use the stock brake line "manifold" or do I still need to scavange the proportioning valve out of the 79 (which has drum rear brakes).

Any help from those who have been there would be appreciated.

 

If wish I had some advice to give you but your a whole lot further than me. I just began my D60 swap. I take it you did the 78/79 power steering swap?

 

1: not 100% sure what you mean hear. I do know that Dana 44 and Dana 60 front brake calipers interchange so I don't see why it doesn't work.
2:The Dana 60 yoke must be a 1 ton 1350. You might be able to run a conversion joint from small to big but that's stupid. That would be a dumb downgrade defeating the purpose of the 60 swap. Get a 1350 spicer ujoint and fix the end of your driveshaft to suit. Take it to a driveshaft shop they can cut out the weld yoke in place of a 1350 style or you could go to a scrap yard and find a 1350 slip yoke and run that on the diff side. I run ALL 1350 spicer joint on my driveshafts and it's a great upgrade. Your weak link is the tiny little 1330 joints you have.
3:your shock mount will have to be cut off flush to the tube and relocated to the backside of axle tube if you run crossover Steering(which you should)
4: as for proportioning valve with rear discs you will scrap it. You'll need an adjustable one to the rears and with test drives you dial in the pressure until the rears don't lock up to a skidding stop.

 

My buddy is running the shock in the front with high steering, we just moved the shock tower to the factory set of holes.

 

Good point, as noted the factory holes are already there, so no need to relocate shock mount on the axle tube.

 

Yep, that was the first thing I used. A plasma cutter is a must to cut through the frame rail and the crossmember with any precision. Having a 20 year old kid with a lot of energy goes a long ways.

 

I probably missed a few details here.

1. The current D44 front has drums, so the dual caliper disks require a different connection which has a larger female fitting at the connection point of the existing brake line.

2. I wonder if the yolk off the 79 will work on the existing driveline, if not I will do as you suggest.

3. I was talking about moving the shock tower at the top rather than at the bottom as it appears that there is already holes in the frame in the correct location.

4. Good info on the P-valve, I will look into that type.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Would this be the correct type?

Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-11179 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Hmm I guess I just moved mine before there was an issue. Looked like it was in the way for sure...

 

If you go from drum to disc, I'm sure the end of the brake line is completely different. I would just buy new rubber brake hoses (usually less than $20ea.) for the disc setup. And I'm sure you can figure the rest out from there.

As long as u-joint are good, they don't tend to break that easy. I would just get that funny U-joint untill you can get the same big yoke for the transfer, and make a driveshaft.

I would definetely just move the shock tower to those other holes. I have done that before on a couple trucks.

buy an aftermarket proportioning valve.

Is the D60 high pinion? I'm sure your original D44 was with the divorced transfer. I have a hiboy that I will be putting a D60 in soon. It will be hi pinion and I'm fearing that the driveshaft will hit the crossmember at the leaf spring shackles......I also have a married tanny/transfer setup from a 79 that I will put in first though...So I have all kinds of cutting to do to the tranny crossmember too.....SUCK!

 

That one is a little much. Looks like it controls front and rear??

You only need one for the rear.
Here's mine

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Master...0-10922-lg.jpg

 

Ledhead: sent you a pm.....73 Ford Guy...Dont you need a lift to run the crossover? I run a D60 with the married transfer case also. I don't see very much clearance to run that. I left mine stock because of that.

 

1. I just changed out the brake lines from the donor truck... you need the proportioning valve from the donor if you plan to run the drums for a litte while..

 

ya, I would think you need alot of lift to run crossover steering....I have the D60 in the front of what was a '78 Bronco. It's like it's only lifted 3" and there is no way I would be able to run crossover steering....

 

It appears that the yolk from the donor fits on the spline from my 74', but it has a shorter shaft to it than the one that was on it. I don't see why that would be much of a problem given that I have improved the angle, but will verify when I get it all bolted up. The overall measurement of the driveline only shrunk by about 1/2" between the two axles.

The only conflict that I see with the high pinion 60 is that it gets too close to the collector flange on the header. May have to do some mods there to make it fit. Otherwise I don't see any other conflicts.