Dana 60 Front Conversion Questions
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 590
Likes: 1
From: in the woods of Maine!
If your talking about the yoke on the driveshaft, then yes they are all the same spline I've found. I've changed them to put 1330's on in the front of my bronco when I put the 60 in. It WAS a '78 so it had 1310's. Sometimes the dust seal setup is different, but there are ways around that. I sheared the 1330 on that end I changed just this winter, hit the header flange pretty hard too! That was kinda my own fault tho... but nothings a garuntee
The header flange is definetely very close in that '62 also. It's only really a trail buggy though, so I just let it slide!! It does come into contact sometimes though. Mostly only when I blow a U-joint or strap. The hi-boy is gonna have fender exit headers though.
OH, and another thing....disc and drum master cylinders are probably a different piston dia. That will affect the braking. I don't know alot of the details here, but look into it, it might be worth your time.
The header flange is definetely very close in that '62 also. It's only really a trail buggy though, so I just let it slide!! It does come into contact sometimes though. Mostly only when I blow a U-joint or strap. The hi-boy is gonna have fender exit headers though.
OH, and another thing....disc and drum master cylinders are probably a different piston dia. That will affect the braking. I don't know alot of the details here, but look into it, it might be worth your time.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
For rear discs your gonna want a bigger bore master. I run a 1 3/8 from a superduty with hydroboost. Bigger bore is less pressure but pushes more fluid in each pedal stroke which is needed to fill larger calipers now on rear brakes an I guess if you convert front to discs.
On a side note hydroboost is the chit too
On a side note hydroboost is the chit too
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 185
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From: Graham, Wa.
Well I tried it with the almost new master cylinder that I had on it and I had to push the darn pedal to the floor to get it to stop. I assume from the info above that the masters are much different going between drum and disc setups? Will it matter if I just have discs on the front until I get the disc conversion done to the back? I grabbed the donor dana 60 30 spline out of the 79' and am going to rebuild that one and do the converions on it, but until it is done I want to run it with the disc on the front and drums on the rear. Do they have different masters for a disc/drum vs. a disc/disc? setup?
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 590
Likes: 1
From: in the woods of Maine!
I would think so. Go to the parts store and have them look it up for drum/drum vs. disc/drum. Maybe that will tell you the exact size of each master cylinder bore. As far as going to disc/disc, maybe a master from a newer Super Duty that had disc in the rear also??
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Graham, Wa.
So I swapped the master cylinder with a new one for a 78' with dual caliper pistons and blead out the lines and was suprised to find that although my breaking effort improved, it still took quite a bit of pedal stroke to get the rig to stop. I was somewhat used to the instant grab of the drums but assume that given the dual caliper design, it does take a little more stroke to fill them up? Is this a normal reaction to the conversion?
I can also tell from the wear pattern on the discs that it is going to take a bit for them to seat properly, so that may be part of the issue. I was just expecting this "massive" breaking improvement with this conversion and have yet to feel it.
I can also tell from the wear pattern on the discs that it is going to take a bit for them to seat properly, so that may be part of the issue. I was just expecting this "massive" breaking improvement with this conversion and have yet to feel it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Graham, Wa.
I did bench bleed the master before I put it in, but still feel that there may be some air in it someplace. Do I need to change any of the other parts such as the plunger shaft from the booster or the one that attaches to the pedal too? Those are still the ones that were in it to start with.
My only other thought is that I am still running it through the "manifold" from the drum system given that I put a proportioning valve on the rear line.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
The distribution block i.e. "manifold" from the 4 wheel drum setup won't allow you to properly bleed the front disks, you need a proportioning valve that has the bleeder valve for the front disks in order to properly bleed them.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Graham, Wa.
Just for curiosity, how was it that I was able to bleed the fronts when I had the drums on them?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
The 4 wheel drum setup doesn't require a bleeder valve i.e. metering valve, when you step on the brake pedal, the proportioning valve delays fluid going to the front disc brakes, to give the rear brake shoes time to travel forward (with drum brakes, the shoes rest a set distance from the drums, while with disc brakes, the pads ride the rotors at all times). This is the metering valve's job. Pulling the bleeder pin out on the proportioning valve compresses the metering valve so that fluid can flow directly to the front brakes when bleeding. If you don't do it, you risk compressing air and trapping it in the metering valve when you bleed the front disc brakes, even if you see clean fluid coming out of the front bleeders.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Graham, Wa.
The 4 wheel drum setup doesn't require a bleeder valve i.e. metering valve, when you step on the brake pedal, the proportioning valve delays fluid going to the front disc brakes, to give the rear brake shoes time to travel forward (with drum brakes, the shoes rest a set distance from the drums, while with disc brakes, the pads ride the rotors at all times). This is the metering valve's job. Pulling the bleeder pin out on the proportioning valve compresses the metering valve so that fluid can flow directly to the front brakes when bleeding. If you don't do it, you risk compressing air and trapping it in the metering valve when you bleed the front disc brakes, even if you see clean fluid coming out of the front bleeders.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
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From: Big Sky Country
On that one i can't help you, sorry, maybe someone with the rear disc conversion will chime in...
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
In my case the rear discs locked up even at high speeds and 44" tires but also with hydroboost brakes. I had to plumb in an adjustable p valve to dial down the pressure to rears until it didnt lock up and skid. Build your brakes until it has the power to be able to lock up then dial it down.
Just for the hell of it I mounted my wilwood adjustable proportioning valve on the dash on the far right in pic. This allows me to crank it and come to a sliding stop if I wanted for fun then dial it back to normal. 44's sound cool sliding in hot.
here read this
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading website in the world.
Just for the hell of it I mounted my wilwood adjustable proportioning valve on the dash on the far right in pic. This allows me to crank it and come to a sliding stop if I wanted for fun then dial it back to normal. 44's sound cool sliding in hot.
here read this
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading website in the world.
