Hi all, Im thinking about pulling my cab off this summer to do some mods and also to get the underside all nice and clean and protected from this damn Michigan road salt. Im looking at it and it doesn't look too bad, any thoughts?

 

I never though about that. Good luck. We will demand pics.

 

I bet if you ask the 6.0 and the 6.4 guys they will know how to get the cab off real quick. I've heard it takes the dealer 45 mins.

 

Here's what I have for doing the Six Leaker.

-Begin by positioning the vehicle onto the hoist where it can be lifted. Roll the vehicle straight backwards just until you can open all four doors without hitting the posts of the hoist. Remove the rear seat (18mm nuts and TX-50 bolts I think). Remove all four door opening scuff plates by simply prying on them gently. Once the rear seat is removed, lift up on the carpet to expose the rear cab mount bolts. You will need a 24mm or 15/16" socket for the bolt on the driver side, and a 21mm or 13/16" socket for the bolt on the passenger side. Once removed, lift up on the carpet until access can be gained to the middle row bolts, just behind the front seats. You will see a rubber grommet plug to remove before you have access to the bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Remove both the driver and passenger side kick panels. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the steering coupler to the steering column, and once removed, telescope the lower shaft all the way through the firewall. Roll up the carpet on both driver and passenger sides to expose the grommets covering the front cab mount bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Once removed, this concludes everything needed to remove from inside the vehicle. Roll the vehicle forward to position it onto the lift.

-Raise the vehicle in the air to disconnect everything needed underneath. Begin by draining the cooling system (don't forget to remove the coolant degas bottle cap first). Loosen the plastic 19mm or 3/4" radiator drain pet****. Disconnect both front ABS wheel speed sensors at the rearward sides of both front inner fenderwells. Disconnect the ground strap located underneath the vehicle, just behind the passenger side inner fender well (8mm bolt). Disconnect the parking brake cable at the junction just under the driver side framerail. Once done, fish the front cable through the body mount bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the shifter cable at the transmission manual lever, and the cable mounting bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the lower rad hose from the radiator. Disconnect the two transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator (you will need to remove the safety lock plastic clips first, and you'll need the special spring lock coupler tool to disconnect the lines). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid cooler to the lower rad support facing the front of the vehicle, and leave the cooler hanging. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the external fluid filter housing on the passenger side of the vehicle. Remove all plastic pushpins that secure the rubber air deflector to the lower rad support.

-Evacuate the A/C. Remove all the plastic pushpins at the upper rad support, and disconnect the main battery positive cable retaining push clips as well. Working on the passenger side of the vehicle in the engine compartment, disconnect the A/C line at the suction accumulator (one 13mm nut). Remove the one 8mm bolt securing the engine ground strap to the firewall, just behind the MAP sensor. Disconnect the vacuum line for your pulse vacuum hubs. Remove the passenger side battery. Disconnect the main wiring connected to passenger side battery positive cable. Disconnect the ground strap that's connected to the negative battery cable on the passenger side of the vehicle you now have access to, with the battery removed. Disconnect the "squeeze and pull" type connection by the vacuum (yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire). Disconnect the MAP sensor hose from the intake manifold, and move out of the way. Disconnect the heater hose at the passenger side, just below the alternator, where it connects to the metal tube going into the front cover. Disconnect the upper of the two A/C lines at the top of the A/C condensor (one 13mm nut). Remove both hot and cold side charge air cooler tubes (11mm or 7/16" to loosen the clamps). Disconnect the upper rad hose. Remove the two upper rad support brackets (four 8mm bolts in total). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the fan shroud to the rad and remove the shroud. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the entire air cleaner assembly (don't forget to remove the airflow restrictor gauge and disconnect the MAF sensor first). Disconnect the main central junction box feed to the driver side battery positive cable. Remove the driver side battery. Remove the battery tray (four 13mm bolts). Disconnect two of the three PCM main connectors (it will be pretty obvious which two). Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir (make sure you have a drain bucket below before doing this because it will be messy). Disconnect all lines (two I think both 18mm) to the to brake hydroboost, except the rubber hose going to power steering fluid reservoir. Disconnect the one of the two power steering fluid lines to the steering box, the one that connects to the power steering fluid cooler (20mm crow's foot or short line wrench needed). Disconnect the heater hose on the driver side, where it junctions into where it connects to the degas bottle. Disconnect all the electrical connectors on the driver side inner fender well. Position all wiring out of the way, in preparation for cab lifting. Disconnect the three ABS HCU lines at the HCU and fold over (you will know which three I'm talking about by looking at them). Last, but not least, Remove the front two cab mount nuts on either side of the charge air cooler (18mm).

-Reposition hoist arms to the four corners of the cab, and have an assistant operate the lift SLOWLY, while someone else keeps watch on the progress of the lift. As the cab is raised, you will be able to address any forgotten disconnects at this point. __________________
Of course the amount of cab bolts differ depending on cab config. Crew cabs have 8 bolts and the rear seat DO need to be removed. Reg and ext cabs have 6 bolts and the reg cab can be accessed by tilting the seat forward, and the extended cabs just lift the backrest to the rear seat out.


Here's the 6.4 how to.
Never mind, I can't get it to upload.

 

Maybe that's a joke and it doesn't come through on the interwebz, but I always assumed the newer cabs were designed to allow some sort of quick removal. Pulling the cab on my truck doesn't look like something I'd want any part of. And yes, pics or ban!

 

I didn't mean it as a joke. I just figured those guys have been thru it before and may have some short cuts......It is kinda funny though...

 

It's petcock, c'Mon izzybird...we're all adults here....:P I think

 

Thanks Izzy, sounds about what I figured, but potentially alot less swearing and fewer busted knuckles than trying to do everything from underneath! I'm hoping to do it in July, so as long as I get to it, I will definitely take pics and post.

Thanks all.

 

Ha, didn't know what the heck you were talking about till I went back and read my post. Apparently the author wasn't comfortable using such vulgarities! You should see the other write-up I have for cab removal. It's an absolute grammatical nightmare. Some peoples kids I tell ya.

 

I work at a small garage. Depending on how rusty the truck is......it takes me about an hr to lift a superduty cab.

 

Its not a joke at all. They have quick releases because thats the only way to get to the motor. Here our electric company drives f550s and a buddy of mine brings his home and we like to look around. The power company mechanics will take that thing off in less than an hour. cab, and body (tool boxes and cherry picker boom).