I took a look at my dads '97 F-250 that has the Dana 50. The gap from inside to inside of the bracket, is 1 7/8". I went and measured my Dana 44 brackets, The gap was 1 7/8".

 

Sound's like they are the same. As you can tell from my picture's, The biggest difference is that bottom bolt. On yours it look's like a cam bolt.

 

I just noticed that. My bolt was flat on one side ('D' shaped) and those washers have a 'D' shaped hold in them. I think it is just for alignment... But the stock ones are just a regular bolt and lock nut holding it all together.

 

Yea, I was just under my truck to verify what the stock setup look's like and for the most part they are the same as the superlift ones i have just not as tall. so i think they are going to work. I just really dont want to tear into it than find out they wont fit.

 

I am the same way. Hope it all works for ya!

 

Thank Bro!

 

They will work. All Dana 50 brackets should be the same, or at least bolt to the crossmember in the same place. Personally I wouldn't bother with that TTB junk though, just do a 60 and be done with it.

 

Well, not everyone has a 1000+ buck's just laying around to buy a dana 60.

 

Spending time and money on a Dana 50 is a net loss. Look at the cost to rebuild a 50. Hell, even at the point of replacing the ball joints you're looking at a fair amount of money. If it doesn't need them now, it will shortly after you lift it.

I bought my king pin 60 for $300. It came complete with steering linkages, track bar, and track bar bracket. I could have dropped it in as-is, but I opted to rebuild it since I wasn't in a hurry to swap it in right away. I do have about $1000 into it but I didn't need to have any more than $300 into it. I found a ball joint 60 for my buddy for $300 when I was hunting for a 460 ZF5 (which I got for $250). He bought it and is swapping it under his truck.

They are out there for reasonable prices, you just have to keep looking. Putting money into a Dana 50, in repairs, rebuild, or extra parts to lift with it, is throwing good money after bad. Doing it right the first time is always cheaper. If you can afford a lift for your truck, you can afford a 60.

 

Talk like this is what makes the Ford dana 60 frontends so high. Everyone wants one, supply and demand you know.

 

Not talk, but rather action is what sets the price. You can ask $800 all day but that doesn't mean anything if no one buys it for that price. I would never buy one for more than $400 unless it was completely rebuilt, had a locker, high steer setup, or anything else that would add considerable value. $300 is a great price for an axle ready to drop in, and it an alright price for one that's good as a core only.

What do you think is a fair price for one?

 

I believe $300 is a fair price, that's around what the rearends go for here. The only reason I can think of why you get them so cheap is you live up north, where the trucks pretty much fall apart from rust, so the used drivelines are more plentiful. But it's going to get worse I am afraid. Do they still make the dana 60 setup? They have all gone to independent frontends on the new trucks correct?

 

IMHO Theres nothing "wrong" with a D50. It's a good axle and mine has 215K on it and still has original ball joints and only now does it need pivot bushings. It doesn't wear tires out, and it's taken alot of abuse. D60's are nice axles but they too have there issues with death wobble and such. So what I'm trying to say is if the man wants to Keep his D50 theres nothing wrong about that, so don't try to give everyone the impression that the D60 is the only axle worth having, this may cause people to spend large amounts of money they don't need.

 

I agree. My Dana 50 has about 170,000 mile on it and still on the original parts aswell. Im sure thats all going to change once it get's the lift but in stock form i've had no issue's. Plus im not using the truck for a "wheeler" so i really have no need for a Dana 60. Again, Thanks for all the input!!!

 

I think a "fair" price for a Dana 60 would be no more than $500 for a usable one.