INTAKE DESIGN
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From: Near Los Angeles
INTAKE DESIGN
I wonder if a new intake design would help the 300 with mpg. I am thinking of one like the DP, but if the coolant filled the heating chamber which is not found below the carb, AND the primary runners too. Of course the coolant would not enter the head.
Would that help or supply better, more consistent atomization?
Would that help or supply better, more consistent atomization?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Spokane, WA
It might possibly heat the whole manifold a little quicker over the heat chamber configuration but I don't think there would be enough difference to make a difference on a DP considering what it would take to arrive a manifold with built-in plumbing for the runners. One could conceivably wrap the runners with tubing or say weld tubes to the bottom of the runners to heat them but there again, would the results be worth it?
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: McMinnville TN
Ya Know I'm confused about this whole heating the fuel for atomization, now I do understand the concept. But From Drag Racing we used to run our fuel lines through 2 ice cans to cool the fuel down before it entered the carb. Maybe this was just old school thinking or maybe it wasn't needed. But from this it always made me think the colder the fuel the better. That and I'm sure the manifold being bolted to the head, which gets pretty dang hot, and the intake being right beside the hotter than haites exhaust ports leads me to think that the intake manifold would be hot enough without the coolant running through it at all or some heated carb spacer. But I could be wrong which according to SWMBO I am more often than not.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Harrisburg, NE
if you wanna go all out, why not build a one-off variable length intake?
seperate the runners about an inch out of the head and have one with small long runners, the other with bigger short runners. then put butterflies into the short ones and operate them with either vacuum or an rpm switch. of course there is more science to it than that, but you get the idea.
heated air has been found to slightly increase mileage, but not enough that would make it worth plumbing coolant into an intake. the fuel see's quite a bit of heat once it hits the combustion chamber. I think that a broader torque curve would give more of an improvement.
on another note, do some searching for smokey yunicks fiero, which used exhaust heat, coolant, and a non pressurized turbo to finely atomize the fuel.
for a something cheap to try (with a carb that is, you all know that i prefer fuelies) would be to take some sheet metal and build a cover that encapsulates the intake and exhaust. just try to keep the heat away from the float bowl (so it doesn't vapor lock)
seperate the runners about an inch out of the head and have one with small long runners, the other with bigger short runners. then put butterflies into the short ones and operate them with either vacuum or an rpm switch. of course there is more science to it than that, but you get the idea.
heated air has been found to slightly increase mileage, but not enough that would make it worth plumbing coolant into an intake. the fuel see's quite a bit of heat once it hits the combustion chamber. I think that a broader torque curve would give more of an improvement.
on another note, do some searching for smokey yunicks fiero, which used exhaust heat, coolant, and a non pressurized turbo to finely atomize the fuel.
for a something cheap to try (with a carb that is, you all know that i prefer fuelies) would be to take some sheet metal and build a cover that encapsulates the intake and exhaust. just try to keep the heat away from the float bowl (so it doesn't vapor lock)
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
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From: Spokane, WA
Not all things drag racing translate to street driveability and mpg and a cold air/fuel mix in the intake is one of those things. Carb icing can be a problem for a street machine but not a racing machine. Also, the 240/300 were not the only engines that came with an OEM provision for heat to the intake or to the base of the carb.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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if you wanna go all out, why not build a one-off variable length intake?
seperate the runners about an inch out of the head and have one with small long runners, the other with bigger short runners. then put butterflies into the short ones and operate them with either vacuum or an rpm switch. of course there is more science to it than that, but you get the idea.
heated air has been found to slightly increase mileage, but not enough that would make it worth plumbing coolant into an intake. the fuel see's quite a bit of heat once it hits the combustion chamber. I think that a broader torque curve would give more of an improvement.
on another note, do some searching for smokey yunicks fiero, which used exhaust heat, coolant, and a non pressurized turbo to finely atomize the fuel.
for a something cheap to try (with a carb that is, you all know that i prefer fuelies) would be to take some sheet metal and build a cover that encapsulates the intake and exhaust. just try to keep the heat away from the float bowl (so it doesn't vapor lock)
seperate the runners about an inch out of the head and have one with small long runners, the other with bigger short runners. then put butterflies into the short ones and operate them with either vacuum or an rpm switch. of course there is more science to it than that, but you get the idea.
heated air has been found to slightly increase mileage, but not enough that would make it worth plumbing coolant into an intake. the fuel see's quite a bit of heat once it hits the combustion chamber. I think that a broader torque curve would give more of an improvement.
on another note, do some searching for smokey yunicks fiero, which used exhaust heat, coolant, and a non pressurized turbo to finely atomize the fuel.
for a something cheap to try (with a carb that is, you all know that i prefer fuelies) would be to take some sheet metal and build a cover that encapsulates the intake and exhaust. just try to keep the heat away from the float bowl (so it doesn't vapor lock)
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Chino Hills
I think a dual carb set-up would be the ticket for balanced flow to the outer cylinders.
2 small carbs each with about 200 cfm would each feed 3 clyinders, and keep velocity up for the carb. Plus with clyinder 1 and 6 won't be lean, and 3+4 won't run fat. Which is pretty common for many I6"s.
One thing you could do is to grab a 300 I6 FI intake and use the best of the pyp parts to make a fuely set-up
2 small carbs each with about 200 cfm would each feed 3 clyinders, and keep velocity up for the carb. Plus with clyinder 1 and 6 won't be lean, and 3+4 won't run fat. Which is pretty common for many I6"s.
One thing you could do is to grab a 300 I6 FI intake and use the best of the pyp parts to make a fuely set-up
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Harrisburg, NE
Runner sizing would be the best route. Need to tune the runner size to the optimum linear velocity at cruising RPM to get the best mileage. Of course then you have an engine designed for best performance at a very narrow RPM band so you might have great mileage cruising down the highway but poor performance taking off or towing a heavy load.
of course the only way to get it perfect would be like what toyota uses, with the cylinder in the center that rotates. but you tune one runner for 1500 rpm and the other for 3000, and build a valve that can blend the two. sounds difficult and involved but i think that the math would be the hardest part.
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