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Power loss while towing

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Old May 11, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #16  
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Uhmmm - overboost
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Turbocharger/Supercharger "A" Overboost Condition (Diesel specific)
bismic is 'da man. Maybe he'll come back soon and tell us what he was thinking when he asked about overboost.

Dang!that was quick!
 

Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; May 11, 2011 at 06:35 PM. Reason: got beat to the post
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Old May 11, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
bismic is 'da man. Maybe he'll come back soon and tell us what he was thinking when he asked about overboost.
That is what I want to know. What happens an over boost is sensed?
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #19  
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I purposely was scanning the dashboard gauges right before I lost power. 20lb of boost, that was it! From other threads on this forum i should be constantly pull 26-30 lbs given those towing conditions. I had the skinny pedal to the floor @ 3500rpm, 70mph and gaining when it went into limp-home mode. can you overboost at 20lbs, or is it possibly the MAP Sensor on it's way out?
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by kenlippold
That is what I want to know. What happens an over boost is sensed?
Instant "limp home" mode.

Maybe your boost gauge is not reading correctly rattleNsmoke?
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
30 to 35 on mine in a situation like that. Pulling a 5th wheel on a hill accelerating at 3500 RPM. I was doing somthing similar a few months ago and my CAC tube blew off at the cooler. Thought I got shot! lol
Kinda weird to quote myself but....there's a problem here. I was rooting around it the Tech Folder and read that the alarm is set for 28 psi boost stock and 30psi with a tuner, and engine is defueled at 28.6 psi. so if I'm seeing 35 psi something is wrong somewhere. I'm sure I've seen daylight between the left side of the needle and the 30 psi mark on the gauge face on a few occasions. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong and that hashmark between 20 and 40 isn't dead in the middle. Hmmm..
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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You should not see over 30 psig stock. If you do, the turbo vanes are sticking.
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #23  
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The two most common issues to cause de-fueling when working the engine hard are EOT/ECT split and overboost.

You got an overboost code.

Personally, I would be looking into the turbo system for the issue. MAP sensor hose might be plugged or the sensor could be bad, but I don't think the code is for EITHER an underboost or an overboost (ie only overboost).

So ..... you might not see the boost on the gauge for whatever reason. Could be that the MAP saw a high boost that was not as rapidly transmitted to the gauge - who knows. Maybe the ebp saw a high reading (IIRC the code can be thrown due to an EBP value also - but not 100% sure).

Most likely, your turbo vanes are sticking - at least IMO. I would also check the ebp sensor tube for plugging, and I would get a way to verify that MAP, BARO, and EBP all read the same at KOEO.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:17 AM
  #24  
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Where is the MAP sensor located? Where is the EBP sensor and the tube I should check?
Haynes manuals are useless for this.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:58 AM
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Check the tech folder (2nd thread in this forum) I'm sure it in there somewhere. I'm back on my cell phone this morning. Not to convenient for searching or I'd help ya find it.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 07:05 AM
  #26  
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How many miles on it
How many times reflashed
Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke
Air filter is new. No overboost. I got to 20lbs max during the excersises. This situation sucks since I'm a 6.0 newbie and feel that Ford is gonna use a full jar of KY on me.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 07:30 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke
Where is the MAP sensor located? Where is the EBP sensor and the tube I should check?
Haynes manuals are useless for this.
EBP location is in the second pic:



MAP sensor is mounted on the passenger's side, off of the engine near the AC receiver/drier. There's a hose that runs to it from the intake manifold.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #28  
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Thanks guys, I found it. I unplugged the hose from the nipple and it was partially clogged. I reamed it out good.
Tim, the truck has 84k on it and no idea how many times she was re-flashed. The dealer wants $100 to hook it up and re-flash. From what I've been reading, the latest flash has wreaked havoc on the exhaust temp reading spread before and after the EGR cooler. Is getting the latest and greatest re-flash a good idea?
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #29  
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There's NOTHING that monitors exhaust temperatures on a 6.0 diesel from the factory. The newest flash changes the inductive heating strategy to extend the life of the FICM and still maintain ease of cold starts and injector stiction. It also monitors engine coolant and oil temperature spreads as an indicator of OIL cooler plugging which can cause EGR cooler failure from a lack of coolant flow that keeps hot exhaust gasses from melting welds/solder of the EGR cooler "radiator" fins.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #30  
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Where did you hear or read that?
Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke
Thanks guys, I found it. I unplugged the hose from the nipple and it was partially clogged. I reamed it out good.
Tim, the truck has 84k on it and no idea how many times she was re-flashed. The dealer wants $100 to hook it up and re-flash. From what I've been reading, the latest flash has wreaked havoc on the exhaust temp reading spread before and after the EGR cooler. Is getting the latest and greatest re-flash a good idea?
 
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