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Help on a radiator please

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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:10 AM
  #1  
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Help on a radiator please

Well i did the transmission fluid and filter on my 1998 mercury tracer. What a difference! That thing shifts just the way it should now. So, while i was in the grease pit working on my transmission i noticed that i have a radiator seep-age from where the aluminum radiaitor clips to the plasic tank! Oh yay. Radiator shops won't even service that either. So, i really do not have the money to purchase a new radiator. What stop leak additives will seal a plasic to aluminum connection? Im in bad shape. I really hate stop leak but i fear i do not have a choice. I regularly made 370 mile trips from indiana to michigan and back. Its a seepage now, and not a leak. So, im really afraid on a long trip like that one it could get much worse. Ive seen those leaks appear over time on other vehicles. I just did a flush on it like 3 months ago and pulled out a lot of crud. I did use a coolant exchanging machine and ran water through my cooling system 3 or four times, then i used a flush adgent. Pulled out a ton of stuff. I really need help on this one, what additives are just liquid? I dont want to be putting in any matierials into my cooling system just liquid. I heard of a product called wynds. Has anyone used this? I am temped to leave it alone and wait till it gets worse but im not sure
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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I wouldn't worry about it and just start saving for a new rad. The one on my F150 seeped for at least a year before I replaced it, of course the new one did the same thing after about a year. Learned my lesson and went to a full aluminum one.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by galaxie641
I wouldn't worry about it and just start saving for a new rad. The one on my F150 seeped for at least a year before I replaced it, of course the new one did the same thing after about a year. Learned my lesson and went to a full aluminum one.
That was my line of thinking too. I like the full metal radiators in 70's and older trucks. I could repair everything on one of those no problem
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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if it gets to be bothersome you could remove the raditor and crimp down the connection a litte tighter. but do not over do it.
The best fix seems to be a new rad for sure.
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 05:44 AM
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You could always try a bead of J-B Weld along the seam. That might buy you a little more time. It's cheap and easy to do, so it might be worth a shot.
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 05:59 AM
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J-B weld doesn't last all that long under high heat but will work for a short time at least.

I've had good luck with Lumi Seal but never tried it with a hybrid rad.
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 07:30 AM
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yeah, the plastic to aluminum seal really bothers me. Im affraid that the leak may become all around the seal of the tank. They are really a throw away design. You know when a radiator shop will not touch it you are in bad shape. I will leave it in there for now, and shop for MAYBE a rebuilt radiator from a shop. But im not sure if i can find one of those for this car. I would prefer that over a used but i may go used instead
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 08:54 AM
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I've used Bar's Leaks for decades and it has usually worked. While I usually am against automotive additives (read my posts about Lucas Oil) this one is different. IF you have an otherwise healthy cooling system that is not plugged up, try it.
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jimandmandy
I've used Bar's Leaks for decades and it has usually worked. While I usually am against automotive additives (read my posts about Lucas Oil) this one is different. IF you have an otherwise healthy cooling system that is not plugged up, try it.
Sounds good. Sadly i once used bars leak to stop a water pump leak that was coming from a weep hole and it did work for 3 days!! That is a moving assembly. Honestly yes i think it could work, but im going to wait till it gets worse. Bars leak has worked well for me, but i don't like to put stuff in my radiator unless it is in a liquid form. Besides its not technicaly leaking, and the stop leak could work a lot better when it did deside to leak. I recently did flush it very well yes. Since then it heats up better when its cold, puts out great heat from the heater core, and runs in fact a little cooler.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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Try a better radiator repair place. I've taken a few to a local shop. There is a rubber seal that sometimes go bad.
 
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Old May 14, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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Yeah, one of my auto teachers just showed me that. Im in shop service percidures in school. He told me how to do it, he has dones several and they have not leaked, but why fix it now? Im going to wait till it starts to leak worse. I know that sounds bad, but i do not have the money right now.
 
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Old May 14, 2011 | 06:58 PM
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The danger of letting it leak is that the engine might over heat if you run low on coolant. But as long as you are aware of the problem.....A lower pressure cap or leave it a notch loose might help.
 
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Old May 14, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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I have had good luck re-crimping the tanks to the radiator, just takes patience and a good pair of pliers.
 
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Old May 15, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by GLR
The danger of letting it leak is that the engine might over heat if you run low on coolant. But as long as you are aware of the problem.....A lower pressure cap or leave it a notch loose might help.
I bought a new radiator cap and tested it and it is in fact week (this will save my radiator longer so this is a good thing). I check my fluids before i go anywhere most of the time. I will try to never let a vehicle over heat past 3/4 of the gauge. When you get into the red too long you can warp heads, ruin head gaskets, and lots of other stuff. Honestly i Just adoid it and will wait paitently if my car does get warm, i do not let it get too hot. Preventive maintence checks is the key to keeping a vehicle so thats how i live. Pre - trip inspections before a long trip. Thanks guys quite helpful-
Trent
 
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