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I knew if I swapped out enough parts it would stop dumping raw gas out the tailpipe, I had half a tank and in the process of tuning this thing ate 8 gallons of fuel. I have driven less then 12 miles so at $4.89 a gallon I was considering dropping the 352 FE with a double pumper in if I couldn't get it to work lol..Good news is I only had to replace the spark plugs ounce and despite having seriously fouled the plugs it still ran o.O..Kind of impressive my 4skinner would've died much much sooner lol... I could really use a 5 speed though 4th gear even with the 3:73s in the rear is just so damn stretched out if your not up to 45mph you really can't even use the other three barrels sigh..
Well drove it to work and back today, bogs quite a bit when cold especially going for third... I am currently running the blue springs so I will be tinkering with all of that until I get it were I want it.
Well I have put every spring in it from the 3" to the 8" and when it is cold it just flat out wants to stall/bog... I have a solid piece of steel welded to the top of the plate I made for the stock exhaust manifold that runs along about 1/3 of the entire manifold so the two manifolds are making contact, but being as its a DP I am thinking it simply isn't warming the top plane of runners quick enough so I am gonna save up and slap on a carb spacer and see if I can't heat it from both sides of the manifoldand get better drive ability.. Ounce the manifold gets hot to the touch it quits bogging but I can't always leave it idling for 10 mins before taking off I've almost got hit twice now trying to pull out in traffic = (.
Slapped my heated carb spacer on today and my truck is drivable much sooner then with heat simply coming through the bottom. The plugs look good to so I think the Carter is dialed in as good as it will ever be.
Well, I need some opinions I am still trying to get this thing to work better. I have tried three combinations of rods so far, (.065" x .052") = fouled plugs, (.067" x .055") Lean pop at idle and lean hesitation no matter what spring is used and the plugs are white. I have been running a set of (.065x .055) with a pink 7" spring and that seems to work the best but only if I leave the choke pulled back a little bit. I am considering rigging the choke so it doesn't open all the way being as I have more then once become complacent and opened the choke completely causing problems when in city traffic, however I am thinking that being as my engine is basically stock except the intake/exhaust I may be able to simply go with a smaller air filter? The one I am running is a 14"x3" open element. I was led to believe that the open element I had on there was no different then stock other then the hot air tube but I am curious if pulling air through a snorkel would make it smooth out especially when slightly restricting the air supply makes it respond perfectly.
What I find very helpful with my 500 is that in the calibration kit there is a little booklet. In that booklet is a chart that gives all the different rod/jet combos and shows where each takes the carb, ie. one step leaner or richer.
I have tried both #1 which results in fouled plugs and one step leaner #6 which causes it to run lean and fall on its face is the you open the throttle to quickly, the only way to get the plugs colored right/smooth throttle response seems to be running the #6 (lean) setup with the choke pulled back a bit and I am thinking that using a air filter smaller then a 14x3 would improve response. I am thinking a a 9x2, having read that entire manual it states a 10x2 restricts flow significanlty more then a 14x3 without altering metering so i'm thinking just a tad smaller may richen it up to were it needs to be being as there is no inbetween rod/jet combo.
Well I put a 9x2" open element on it I got from summit for $18, its far better it doesn't fall on its face at all when the choke is opened all the way up. There is a little hesitation if you really romp it up higher in the rpms but nothing I can't live with. I could have probably gone a little bit smaller but I don't want to have difficulty finding replacement filters and I don't want to throw off the metering to much.
Changing the air filter to something restrictive enough to impact performance isn't a fix...it's a cover-up. And it would probably take something like a lawn mower filter to do it. Anything in the automotive line will not make enough difference to be a difference.
I threw out the edelbrock tuning chart, I was told my carter AFB was the exactly the same in regards to tuning it for this engine but thats a bunch of BS.
Its taken forever but I finally got it down, going with the smaller breather smoothed out my throttle response, the 65x55 metering rods allow for a good color on the spark plugs with about perfect throttle response. However being as my secondaries are larger then the primaries and do actually open up I had to swap in a set of .071 secondary jets, the secondaries would open and then you'd experience the mother of all face plants when the engine bogged at higher rpms. That combined with my 3:73 gear swap brought my cruising speed at 3000rpm from 50 to 60 and as a result I am getting about 15 mpg city.
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