Guys, I have searched ALL OVER the net and Ford forums for months and although I have found many posts with the same problem as mine, I have not seen anobody that actually pinpointed the working fix, (if possible)

So here we go: 2003 F250, 115K

When the engine is cold, or even on a 75F morning, it starts rigt up, no smoke, Idles fine at 600 rpm or so. If I slowly run the rpm up when parked, at about 1400 rpm, the engine starts to "miss", just like it is not running on all cylinders. When driving off it is even worse and the acceleration is bad.
At 45mph, engine rpm is around 1400 so it is a rough ride.

After a few miles and the engine temp coming up to the normal range (showing 150F or so on the AE scanner), it runs fine and stays that way until it sits overnight.

What I'we done:
8 New Injecors (all looked the same, no indication of a troubled Injector)
New Fuel filters and Oil & Filter Change (5-40),
New FICM (48 Volts All the time)
New Alternator, New Tensioner & Belt, Good Batteries
Checked Wire Harness for Grounding out
Scanned with AE, Power Balance Test, no issues came up, but dont have Ford data to compare values

No Codes!
Tried EGR Valve unplugged= No Change
Fuel pressure sits steady at 65-70
Glow Plugs New and checked, Buzz test "passed"

What Im doing next:
* Removing and cleaning the EGR Valve (dont think this will fix it, but...)

* I have a Scorpion Performance Diesel chip (plugs in in series with ICP sensor) and it works fine on all 3 settings. Even though I did not see any oil leak coming from the ICP when I replaced the FICM, I still bought a new ICP to replace next week and I will remove the Scorpion Chip for trouble shooting purpose.

* The FICM 'supposedly" came with the latest flash, but I'm not sure since it wasn't from FORD, but a company out in CA. I've read that the Inductive Heating Flash could help since it heats the cold coil oil, but then I read that it is also a FICM killer... so to get a FORD flash or not... hmm

* Is there an issue with the PCM (by the fender) having bad solder joints when it gets older just like the FICM? (Im guessing not since the location is better, away from heat and engine vibrations)

Has ANYONE actually had this problem and can positively saying what the fix was?

Thanks

 

I'm fighting the same symtoms that you have. wouldn't start unless it was pluged in and even had to replaced my starter because I've cranked it so much! I've had mine reflashed, 5-40 Rotela back to Motorcraft oil and fuel filters and even glow plug controler. Run good yesterday and the night before. This morning started and left the house wouldn't even hardly pull itself and stoppped to get a pop let it idle and it gets a little better. If you keep your foot in it it smothers down starts missing and blows blue smoke and won't shift. You back out of it and it will shift and take back of not miss. Some times it might clear out and run normal till next morning and start back doing same thing. What's causeing blue smoke?

Mine is stock 03 with 191,000. FICM was my next item just priced it today 716.00.

 

I dont have any smoke.
Blue is normally oil/fuel related I guess, but I definately had a bad FICM, opened it up and could tell bad solder joints. Sent it off for repairs, came back, started right up. Ran for about 10 miles, then blew up and I had to get towed home...

Decided to get a new one and not "mess around", so I got this one, steady 48 Volts ALL THE TIME!

FORD 6.0L DIESEL FUEL INJECTION CONTROL MODULE FICM | eBay

But it didnt fix my original problem. Do the FICM voltage test, mine was down to 27Volts when I tested it.

 

I would bet it is your chip, but it could be an ICP or IPR issue I suppose.

 

coba It looks like you been chasing this for awhile

I did notice that your temp of 150 is way low should be 190 change the thermistate

what does the AE say for the ipr/icp

how about map reading

take the tunner off and return to stock this tunner that sits inline with the icp untill ya figure it out

 

Where is the tech folder I keep reading about with the test procedures and what is AE scanner you talk about and how much do they cost Coba?

 

Look at the second thread down from the top in this forum.

 

The engine temp is around the normal 190F when warmed up.
What I meant to say was that around 150F or so, the engine starts to run okay again when first started.

AE Data. All at Idle (640rpm) Engine has been running for 255 seconds:

EGR Duty Cycle: 10.03%
EGR Valve Position: 2.86
EGR Valve Position (Volts): 1.54
Engine Oil Temp (Volts): 1.77
Fuel Pulse Width (uSec): 1096
Injector Control Pressure Desired (Psi): 637.9
Injector Control Pressure (Psi): 637.33
Injector Control Pressure Volts: 0.94
Injector Control Pressure Regulator %: 23.05
Injector timing (Deg BTDC): -2.53
Mass Air Flow (Volts): 2.02V
Man Absolute Pressure (Psi): 14.28
Man Absolute Press Sensor (Volts): 1.304
Mass Air Flow (ib/min): 0.04
Mass Air Flow Rate (Volts): 1.97
Mass Fuel Desired (mg): 8.31

No recorded missfiring on any cylinder.

Can someone see a problem with these numbers?

 

Check it here:
AutoEnginuity® - OBD2 Scan Tool - Professional PC and PDA Diagnostics

I got my scanner on Craigslist complete with the additional Ford program for $325. Since Ford charged me $160 to scan this winter, finding the bad FICM, I thought it would be a good investment. A bit dissed that it doesn't pick up my problem, or maybe I have to learn what the values should be and compare. I expected a simple "Green for good" "Red for Bad" type software.

 

At idle your map seems a little high. It should be around 12.2 just idleing with no boost. At 14 my truck reads 2-3psi boost. Try cleaning your map hose and the little intake snorkle.

 

i had one doing that and was kind of sluggish all the time. It was a 550 loaded with tools so it may not show up in a 250 as easily. Anyway, it ran exactlyas described by original poster. Could not even try to drive it until it warmed up some. Sometimes it would act a little like the symptoms in the 2nd post.

When we pulled the EGR valve, the orings were burnt up on it. Replaced it with a new one and it came back to life.

 

coba here is a list of operating values hope this helps

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10221929

 

Thanks for the input, I will definately check the EGR valve, then drive it and see if it fixes the problem. After that, I will pull the VGT Solenoid and clean and inspect, and stick back in, as long as it looks good and solenoid works, then drive it again. Then disconnect the "trim chip" module and test, then replace the ICP sensor and check. It will take me a few days since im in Kuwait right now, but I will post results hopefully by next Monday

Coba

 

Ive got the identical problem and have also switched to 5w-40, checked FICM, Buzz tested injectors, changed filters, fuel pressure spring upgrade, and just replaced my egr valve. Mine is also an 03 (F350) w/137000mi. Would love to find out what the cause is!!

 

I am intersted to know also. Mine is an 05 with 160000. it does the same thing. It starts great but if you do not let it warm all the way up first thing it has no power until it is all the way warmed up. I have a factory tune and the FICM is at 48v.