Now, I don't have a timing light, so let's just get that out of the way, lol.

Ok, My dad gave me a distributor wrench so I could finally get down in there and loosen that bolt. I, for some reason, have lost my 3/8in swivel, and don't really have a whole lot of tools. Bits and pieces because stuff gets stolen, or had been stolen. I finally just started hiding all my stuff. Anyways...

I had read on here that before you turn the distributor, you need to unplug the harness that's on it. Well, in my case with my 5.0 EFI, it won't crank with it unplugged, and it won't run with it unplugged. So, I just bumped my timing up with it plugged in. That's my first question. Is that ok?

I first bumped it too much, I could hear valve chatter at 3000+RPM at wide open throttle. I retarded the timing a little and I think it's in the sweet spot. I run 93 octane fuel anyways. I know it doesn't require it, but it's something about today's gasoline with this 86 5.0 EFI and 87 octane that does not do well. LOTS of hesitation when I first get on the throttle. 93 seemed to cut that down 80%. Well, now with my timing bumped up, it feels so much better. It revs from idle SO much faster. Has a noticeable increase throughout the whole powerband. I hear no valve chatter, and everything feels smooth. Think I'm pretty safe? Considering I run 93 octane, too? I guess there's no way to safely answer this without a timing light, right?

I gotta say, though, my truck always felt so sluggish in the idle - 2000RPM range. Just revving to take off, it felt like it was badly tuned or something. Now it's immediate and quick to rev. And guess what? 0 hesitation now. Zero. When I give it gas at any speed in any gear, no more *throttle* *pause* *thunk* *go*. It's very smooth. Mainly just wanted to share my experience, and if anyone has any advice on things to listen or feel for, please share. Also, if you know anything about me doing this improperly, lemme know.

 

Don't be retarded. Buy a timing light and set it properly. Check your initial and total. Initial can safely be in the 12*-16* range if it starts easy. Mechanical advance all in my 2500-3000 RPM, use springs to tweak this rate. You want it as quick as it'll take it without detonation. Total around 34*-38*, adjust this by limiting the size of the holes on the piece the rotor goes on. Timing at cruise with vacuum should be in the 40s.

Edit: On these EFI setups you need to pull the little gray jumper on the drivers fender near the firewall. This stops the computer from advancing things. Not sure how tunable these EFI setups are. I'd guess not very.

 

On the EFI setup, the computer does all the timing advance. I don't believe there is even any form of mechanical advance.
Not sure of the location, but as mentioned, there is a plug that has to be unhooked somewhere in the harness leading to the dist. Unhooking the big plug at the dist, disables the entire ignition system.

Now that you have the base timing set up a bit, try dropping back to 87 octane. I bet you'll find it runs just as good on the cheaper stuff. The only way I would put anything more than the cheap stuff in, would be if the cheap stuff has ethanol and the higher price stuff doesn't. I hate ethanol blended gas, and will avoid buying it whenever possible.

 

Buy a timing light.

Get to know this site:
Ford Fuel Injection

Buy a code reader.

Everything else is guesswork.

 

Most newer models will only bolt up one way, no adjustment and it's not needed. Here's a good "by ear" way to time older models that adjust, but everyone's right, you need a light. After it's running advance the timing a bit and drive it. It's best to put a load on it like up hill. If it starts spark knocking, back it off a little and do it again. If it doesn't, advance it a bit more. Once you reach spark knock and back it off it bet you'll be within three degrees or so.