Hello,

I want to change my brake fluid, but I have never done it before. I searched but didn't find anything that matches what I'm looking for.

Can someone please explain to me about how to do it or point me to an already created thread?

I would really appreciate it. I have never done any brake work before, but I'm wanting to learn how.

Thanks!

 

I'm sure in your search you found info on bleeding your brakes. To chance the fluid, continue to bleed process until fresh/clean fluid comes out of the calipers and then continue a couple more cycles.

 

I like to use a turkey baster to remove all the old fluid you can from the reservoir before doing the bleed operation. Then top off the master cylinder with new fluid.

If you don't have one of the purpose-built vacuum brake bleeders, you can use a clear glass jar and a length of vacuum hose that fits on the end of your caliper bleeder screws. Put enough new brake fluid in the glass jar so that one end of the vacuum hose stays submerged, loosen your caliper bleed screw and put the other end of the hose on the fitting. Then you can go to the cab and pump the brake pedal. You can do this whole operation without a second person, but it is helpful to have someone there to tell you when the fluid from the hose runs clear.

I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but this is what works for me.

 

Always start on the furthest wheel from the master cylinder first, ie; right rear, then left rear, right front and last the left front. Each procedure will be completed a little sooner since you are getting closer to the master cylinder. Do not let the fluid in the master get below the 1/2 way mark. If you get air in the system you will be starting all over.

 

Save yourself time and trouble a buy a Motive Power Bleeder.

StoreFront -- Motive Products Online Store

It's a half gallon container with hand pump (like a bug sprayer). It is equipped with a pressure gauge and instead of a spray head it has a brake fluid reservoir cap.

Fill the Power Bleeder with new brake fluid. replace your reservoir cap with the Power Bleeder cap. Pump up to 15 psi. Connect a clear plastic tube to the right rear brake bleeder. Put the other end in a container. I use clear soft drink bottles that I've marked in 8 oz. increments.

Crack the bleeder nipple about 1/2 turn (too much and air will enter around the threads and you'll get false air bubbles in the plastic drain tube). When the fluid runs clean and bubble free, close the bleeder nipple on the caliper.

Repeat at left rear, right front and left front. (You'll have to check the pressure and pump in between calipers

The only ways to screw up with a Power Bleeder:

Fail to attach the reservoir cap correctly.

Run out of brake fluid (you can refill without disconnecting cap). You don't want to pump air into your brake system.

Open bleeder nipples too far because you lack patience. Air will be sucked by the threads and you'll never stop seeing bubbles in the drain tube.


If you mark your drain bottle, you'll have an idea of how much new fluid you have in the Power Bleeder.

I like Ate Type 200 and Super Blue (DOT 3/4) fluid. It has the highest wet and dry boiling points of any street suitable fluid. (Racing fluid like Motul is better, but it's designed to be changed after every race track session and it's $60 per liter.) The Ate fluid also lasts 50% longer than regular brake fluid. \

Type 200 is amber. Super Blue is blue. Otherwise, they are both the same. if you alternate, your drain tube will show dirty yellow, green and blue - you know when you've drained the old stuff out. Next time, it will start out dirty blue, then green, and lastly clean amber.

It takes me 20 minutes to change the brake fluid on my F250 with a Power Bleeder. The truck is tall enough to not require jacking or wheel removal. Just turn the front wheels to full locked to reach the bleeder nipples.

You can dick around with a turkey baster and have your wife sit in the cab to push the break pedal. "Down!" "Up!" "Sorry, Honey my sister's calling."

Do it right 10,000 lbs. gross is too much to risk.

\

 

You can use this process and simply gravity drain. It takes about a day letting gravity do the work but it is very simple.

 

In a week or 2 I will be flushing mine to DOT4.

 

My vote is for..... Mityvac Pneumatic Fluid Evacuator — 8.8 Liters, Model# MV7300 | Oil Extractors | Northern Tool + Equipment

This is the best money I have spent. I have flushed over a dozen vehicles using the method below. It takes about 15-20 minutes to flush an entire system. The only downside to the Mityvac VS a Power Bleeder that XB70 mentioned, is that you have to put teflon tape on the bleeder screws before you start sucking the fluid out. Otherwise you will be pulling air in thru the threads making it look like you have air in your system.... Still not a bad job once you have done a few...

• Suck all of the fluid out of the reservoir.
• Pull the 2 pins out of the reservoir and remove the reservoir.
• Spray all debris out with brake cleaner and use the air hose to dry.
• Re-install the reservoir and fill with new fluid
• Start with the furthest wheel away from the reservoir and vac until air is out and fluid is clear. RR, LR, RF, LF.

Dishes are done!!

 

Hey XB, which one of the Motive products in this link did you buy?
I see they have more than 1 listed for Fords, and one has a warning about not being very common. Murphy's Law dictates that I would likely buy the wrong one.
Thanks. Nice write up by the way.

 

This is the one that I have and it works good.
Universal Bleeder Kit 0250 -- Motive Products Online Store

 

I just did this in the spring.

As recommended by others on FTE, I picked up a Motive Products bleeder.

I selected a kit for use on different vehicles. This is the one I got, but you from another site - Magnum Xlt Bleeder 0380 -- Motive Products Online Store

FYI, I didn't notice much difference in the pedal after doing this. What made the biggest difference for me was flushing the power steering fluid.

 

guys this can be with a much cheeper tool. just get a mighty vac and take your time.

 

I'll have to find the box, but I can tell you that the adapter for the F250 is exactly the same as my 2004 Mustang Mach 1.

Here's the correct single adapter model for Ford 3 Prong caps:

ford late model pressure brake bleeder

 

I use the Motive Products bleeder...works great.
Great write up XB70.