I have a strange question, but I think you guys will have best advice...

My 2004 6.0 Excursion recently started running rough in the morning. I bought a code scanner (AutoEnginuity) and it told me the #5 injector was not contributing. I confirmed the FCIM voltages were correct, and decided to wait out the first half of our race season before replacing the injector.

It's been a non-stop race season for us through this coming weekend, after this weekend I have about a month to work on the tow vehicle.

Yesterday, it started blowing a lot of white smoke, an acrid smoke that is unpleasent to the eyes, but doesn't smell particularly bad. It does it a lot during acceleration, eases up under constant speed (light throttle).

My searching through the forum tells me that it is most likely an injector, and I'm not able to get one today or tomorrow (so far, but I am trying) to replace it.

Here's my question, we must make this race, it is 4.5 hours away (Carolina Motorsports Park). Is a failed injector reason to park the truck and try to rent something else? Fuel economy doesn't matter this weekend, but if this is the equivilent of washing down a gas engine cylinder, it's not worth trashing the engine.

Second question...
I believe small amounts of coolant are going somewhere, I've been assuming I have a pinhole lead near the Heater Control Valve (which did give me trouble before). If the EGR cooler is leaking, and I'm running mostly water in the system, would it/could it be the smoke I am seeing? When the cooler fails, is it a big problem, or just a "keep putting water in it" failure?

Normally, I would just dig into it, but this weekend is critical to the season points. The trailer is very light, or can be left home, if load is something that might make it worse...

I did get a couple days of smoke when he engine was cold, but it cleared up as it warmed up, now, it's "smoke under acceleration"...

Thanks in advance,
Dale

 

If I knew I had a bad injector, I would wait until I had a new one put in before driving.

 

i would park it. if injector is stuck open you can trash the motor. park it till you have time to tear into it

 

Thanks for the answers, they are what I figured, but had to ask.

Of course, there is always an update. There is a Ford dealership less than 10 minutes from where I work. I avoid it like the plague because of a bad experience with them in the past. I decided to break my vow of never returning and stopped by during lunch to see if they had injectors in stock.

Being an '04, there is the small issue of two different part numbers used that year. They had both in stock. Price is a little high, at $306 plus core charge, but I need the part right now, and it's on the counter in front of me.

I ask the parts guy to write up both injectors, and the core charge, and tell him I'll bring the unused part and the core back tomorrow.

He replies, "No problem, how are you going to pay?" I offer cash, debit, or charge card, whichever is easiest for him.

He replies again, "No problem. Bring the injector you don't need, the core, and $306 plus tax back to me tomorrow and we'll finish up the paperwork."

I stand there dumbfounded, offer him cash again, or at least my drivers license. He refuses, "No sir. This dealership was built in a small town, I trust you."

How about that?

 

First off $306.00 is wayyyy to much for an injector...after core.

If you know which injector is bad(I assume you do)

Go do another dealer even if its a few more miles away...I would believe many dealers will have the injectors in stock..

I never once had to wait for a part from the dealer...and I bought a few parts from them before..

Injectors, push rods, rocker arms, ipr..etc

 

306 seems to be MSRP in the Atlanta area... They got'em, I need one, can't even wait a day for shipping one.

Plus, since I don't know which one I need, I have both.

Sometimes it costs money, if I had time to order, I would, but we've got a race to be at on Friday and the engine for that race isn't even back in the shop yet...

If there were someone local that I trusted with tools, I'd pay them to do the job while I worked on my kid's vehicle.

 

When its a must sometimes theres nothing you can do but pay up

Sounds like a pretty decent guy at the dealer

Its not to bad a job replacing an injector

 

Alright, there's always one more uncertainty.

Got the original injector out of the truck (yeah, that was fun..) and none of the numbers on it match any of the numbers on the replacements.

The injector I removed has a black connector, the body of it has the following numbers; 04641 with 1424 under it.

The two Motorcraft reman units both have black connectors.

One is part number CN-5020-RM 3C3Z-9E527-ECRM
The other is CN-5019-RM 4C3Z-9E527-BRM

I'm failing the search test... which one is correct?

Thanks

 

hard to say bud. the take the vin number to them first thing in the morning and they will tell you which one to put in. always have the vin when you go to a dealership. i know you hate to wait but that would be the best thing unless someone else jumps in that knows part numbers. did the injector look bad? ie o rings messed up or carbon build up around the tip?

 

Should have called a deal in California.
[edit} Sorry to late

 

Definately gunked up around the tip, carbon and what-not...

The reason I didn't buy online, I called Clay at RiffRaff, was even with a VIN, he nor the dealers could tell me which one was correct. It seems to be based off the connector color (mine is black, not white) or the engine number.

From what my searches turned up, the 3C3Z part number is the later version, so I'm going to clean up the head and the valve cover, and if there's no answer, go with that one.

I do appreciate everyone's help. It's my own fault for getting myself in this jam, procrastination payback...

Dale

 

i honestly dont think there will be a difference. run the black one. it will run but if its the wrong one might throw a code. but non the less should run fine. could be wrong though but i think the black one is correct one. where is the icp sensor located. if on valve cover then black for sure

 

You do not want to use the incorrect one and need to be sure of what you order. Here is a pdf that will help you decide which one you need.

APTB-0306R2-watermark.pdf

 

well there ya go that sums it up. thanks riffraff i learned something new again today!! btw think im gonna order some boots from yall soon do you do fte discounts for members?

 

I will chime in to tell you which one applies to your vehicle. All 2004 model year trucks came equipped with either a 2003 engine or 2004 engine. Here is a breakdown to tell you how to identify yours:

EARLY-BUILD 2004
-build date earlier than September 29th, 2003
-2003 engine (as identified by data plate on the passenger side valve cover)
-ICP sensor under the turbo
-Straight rail with braided high pressure hose to each bank of cylinders, secured by eight 8mm bolts.
-Uses injector part numbers CN-5020 (3C3Z-9E527-ECRM)

LATE-BUILD 2004
-build date September 29th, 2003 and later
-2004 engine (as identified by data plate on passenger side valve cover)
-ICP sensor on passenger side valve cover.
-Wavy high pressure oil rail on each bank of cylinders secured by nine TX-30 fasteners.
-Uses injector part numbers CN-5019-RM (4C3Z-9E527-BRM)

HOPE THIS HELPS. DO NOT use the incorrect injector for your application.