Engine Build Questions, Extra Block?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Engine Build Questions, Extra Block?
I was wondering if anyone has used an extra block or a bought block on their truck to build their engine with while the current block kept the truck running, and how economical this is?
I've recently spotted some good heads and a full block with crank pistons and rings which is still fully assembled, but he says the block needs a "rebuild".
I was wondering what you all thing of getting a 351W with some "good" (from the owners view) heads, as well as a block that's disassembled with some pistons and rings?
For all the stuff that's listed, he wants $250.
Here is the ad:
"have a set of good 351 Windsor heads for $150 all assembled plus the whole 351 W block with crank pistons and rings still all assembled but needs rebuild....worn out a bit....motor was still running in the vehicle $100 contact me with offers"
Let me know what you guys think. I could leave my engine together while I rebuild a different block. Sounds like a good idea to me, but it doesn't come with intake or carb or anything else.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
I've recently spotted some good heads and a full block with crank pistons and rings which is still fully assembled, but he says the block needs a "rebuild".
I was wondering what you all thing of getting a 351W with some "good" (from the owners view) heads, as well as a block that's disassembled with some pistons and rings?
For all the stuff that's listed, he wants $250.
Here is the ad:
"have a set of good 351 Windsor heads for $150 all assembled plus the whole 351 W block with crank pistons and rings still all assembled but needs rebuild....worn out a bit....motor was still running in the vehicle $100 contact me with offers"
Let me know what you guys think. I could leave my engine together while I rebuild a different block. Sounds like a good idea to me, but it doesn't come with intake or carb or anything else.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,186
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From: townsend DE
its a great idea, especially if you might need that vehicle while you are building the motor. id offer him 200 for the whole mess and go through all of it. the intake and stuff you can get bolted on in a few hours after you drop the long block in. it will give you minimum down time.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
its a great idea, especially if you might need that vehicle while you are building the motor. id offer him 200 for the whole mess and go through all of it. the intake and stuff you can get bolted on in a few hours after you drop the long block in. it will give you minimum down time.
And doesn't an engine lifter/jack need an intake on it in order to keep the engine held up, because that's what it gets bolted to?
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Logistics Pro
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I've never seen the plate that comes with most lifters attached to the heads, only the intake.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Thief River Falls, MN
no pictures, but i use chains to create a center lift point. It may be different on a 302/351, I've always had a carb plate to pull those. I chained to the heads on this one because I didn't feel comfortable lifting a 750 lb + engine from 4 little bolts in an aluminum intake.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
no pictures, but i use chains to create a center lift point. It may be different on a 302/351, I've always had a carb plate to pull those. I chained to the heads on this one because I didn't feel comfortable lifting a 750 lb + engine from 4 little bolts in an aluminum intake.
I would think both, and both on the front AND the back to balance the engine nicely without too much tilting.
This is sort of hard for me to visualize because I've never seen the heads get bolted onto for this procedure.
Maybe someone else will chime in with some answers/pics.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Yeah it makes sense to me, but do you bolt onto both heads or just one?
I would think both, and both on the front AND the back to balance the engine nicely without too much tilting.
This is sort of hard for me to visualize because I've never seen the heads get bolted onto for this procedure.
Maybe someone else will chime in with some answers/pics.
I would think both, and both on the front AND the back to balance the engine nicely without too much tilting.
This is sort of hard for me to visualize because I've never seen the heads get bolted onto for this procedure.
Maybe someone else will chime in with some answers/pics.
We've used the end intake bolt holes and we've used the holes actually on the end of the head like when intake manifold was in place.
I've used the plate deal only a few times, mostly used the chain deal and put the intake on after the swap if need be.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Moore, OK
Cost $100. That is all the extra I am really out. Not much when you are staring down a $4000 build regardless. I am replacing the pistons and cam no matter what. Balancing no matter what....
This way, I can finish it and just take a weekend to swap the engines and bolt-on's that Im reusing.
Also, people tend to lose interest in projects that dont run, so having your truck you can dream about your new engine every time you drive it with the worn out one. Helps me.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Im doing this now with my 460. The one in there now runs ok, but its tired and could use some go-fast parts IMO. Instead of saving the money, then pulling the engine and having the truck out of commission for likely months between machine work and everything, I just found a short block on Craigslist.
Cost $100. That is all the extra I am really out. Not much when you are staring down a $4000 build regardless. I am replacing the pistons and cam no matter what. Balancing no matter what....
This way, I can finish it and just take a weekend to swap the engines and bolt-on's that Im reusing.
Also, people tend to lose interest in projects that dont run, so having your truck you can dream about your new engine every time you drive it with the worn out one. Helps me.
Cost $100. That is all the extra I am really out. Not much when you are staring down a $4000 build regardless. I am replacing the pistons and cam no matter what. Balancing no matter what....
This way, I can finish it and just take a weekend to swap the engines and bolt-on's that Im reusing.
Also, people tend to lose interest in projects that dont run, so having your truck you can dream about your new engine every time you drive it with the worn out one. Helps me.
Right now, my truck isn't in the greatest of running conditions, but it should run just fine once I get the gas tank fixed up.
We'll just have to see what I can get that block and those heads for... the cheaper, the better...
Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Huntsville, Alabama
I've currently got a 67 & 73 390, and running a 75 390. I am cheaply building up the best parts of the 67 & 73. In the future, I plan to pull out my original 75 390 and build it up while running the one I am currently building. I figure before one goes dead I will have the other built and on standby. Plus, it's always fun to have a fully built engine ready to go.
Last edited by BSCowboy; May 3, 2011 at 09:00 PM. Reason: still learning to spell
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 650
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From: Weirton WV
I've done that as well, cuts down on truck down time.
Personally, I shy away from engines out of the car I can't hear running. Cold starts reveal alot when testing.
With the engine running, I'll listen for bearing knock (rods & main), piston slap, or piston pin noise. Do you plan on replacing the pistons with an overbore kit? If not, a block with a bore that won't clean up with a simple hone won't work cause the pistons to bore clearance will be too large. I'd mic the cylinder walls, pull the rod & main bearing caps (look for spun bearing). If spun or damaged crank journals, they'll need re-ground. Also, the block & heads needs to be checked for cracks via magnaflux. Will he refund your money if the block or heads are cracked or warped?
Personally, I shy away from engines out of the car I can't hear running. Cold starts reveal alot when testing.
With the engine running, I'll listen for bearing knock (rods & main), piston slap, or piston pin noise. Do you plan on replacing the pistons with an overbore kit? If not, a block with a bore that won't clean up with a simple hone won't work cause the pistons to bore clearance will be too large. I'd mic the cylinder walls, pull the rod & main bearing caps (look for spun bearing). If spun or damaged crank journals, they'll need re-ground. Also, the block & heads needs to be checked for cracks via magnaflux. Will he refund your money if the block or heads are cracked or warped?
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I've currently got a 67 & 73 390, and running a 75 390. I am cheaply building up the best parts of the 67 & 73. In the future, I plan to pull out my original 75 390 and build it up while running the one I am currently building. I figure before one goes dead I will have the other built and on standby. Plus, it's always fun to have a fully built engine ready to go.
I'll be keeping my hopes up over summer as I try to save my money as well as get a second block and heads to build on. I've got a feeling that by the time I get paid, that block and heads will be gone.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I've done that as well, cuts down on truck down time.
Personally, I shy away from engines out of the car I can't hear running. Cold starts reveal alot when testing.
With the engine running, I'll listen for bearing knock (rods & main), piston slap, or piston pin noise. Do you plan on replacing the pistons with an overbore kit? If not, a block with a bore that won't clean up with a simple hone won't work cause the pistons to bore clearance will be too large. I'd mic the cylinder walls, pull the rod & main bearing caps (look for spun bearing). If spun or damaged crank journals, they'll need re-ground. Also, the block & heads needs to be checked for cracks via magnaflux. Will he refund your money if the block or heads are cracked or warped?
Personally, I shy away from engines out of the car I can't hear running. Cold starts reveal alot when testing.
With the engine running, I'll listen for bearing knock (rods & main), piston slap, or piston pin noise. Do you plan on replacing the pistons with an overbore kit? If not, a block with a bore that won't clean up with a simple hone won't work cause the pistons to bore clearance will be too large. I'd mic the cylinder walls, pull the rod & main bearing caps (look for spun bearing). If spun or damaged crank journals, they'll need re-ground. Also, the block & heads needs to be checked for cracks via magnaflux. Will he refund your money if the block or heads are cracked or warped?
By buying it, i'd be taking my chances... large chances... with my money thats on a huge budget at the moment.
Maybe I'll wait for another 351 that's in a vehicle that I can start up and listen to before I buy it.
Has anyone had a bad experience with a sale on an engine that supposedly "rebuilt"?
I've always been really really weary of sales that say "rebuilt" or "still in plastic" because everyone's definition of "rebuilt" is different.
My version means fully done... bathed, checked for cracks, warps, overbored, larger pistons, newer/redone crank, and pretty much pristine condition.
I've had a phone call before where a "rebuilt" engine would cost me $3,000, but on the internet a "rebuilt" would cost only $500 (o.b.o.).
What's your opinion?
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