I've got a melted motor on my hands. I was planning a Cummins conversion, but I've changed my mind, and I'm going to keep the 6.D'oh!


Ok, in this thread I'm going to post my plans for this Build. I need for you guys to point out where I'm thinking wrong, and maybe offer better suggestions.
Yes, I'm searching, and going through the tech folder, but that's going to be a long read.


I've got a 2004 F-250. According to the local diesel shop, the motor in my truck is especially good. Evidently, the engine was built in a window of time where it has the old style HPOP and the new style oil rails. I'm ignorant on this point, but the mechanic was positive.
So my plan is that whatever engine I buy, it'll be built back to this profile.


I'm planning on buying a running take out engine, and rebuilding the long block, and using the bolt-ons from my engine, while replacing all the consumables with new parts.
New HPOP (Old style)
New Ford injectors,
EGR delete (Freeze plug welded into the stock manifold, so it preserves the mounting point on the block, rather than an aftermarket down pipe that hangs all the weight on the turbo housing)
ARP studs
Is there a particular brand/type of head gaskets I should use?
New factory oil cooler, or is there a better option?
New glow plugs and harness
Is the turbo that came on my engine the best one, or is there another year range I should look at? Either way, I'll have it professionally rebuilt.
Add coolant filter
Add EGT gauge, and a Bluetooth adaptor for a smartphone app, or some type of tuner with gauge displays
Cat and muffler are already gone.
Block and heads will be sent out for machining. Mic'ing the cylinders will determine whether I buy new pistons or not. Are ceramic coated pistons worth it?
Any real gains to be made doing a port job on the heads?
Should I have the block and heads cut for fire rings?
I'm satisfied with the power it had, but if I could pick up some extra power without harming reliability, I'm game. I just don't want to "roll coal".


That's the plan as it exists in my head. point out my errors and brain farts.


Thanks in advance. Now back to searching.

 

Here's what I know enough about to chime in on:
OEM Ford.

The Bulletproof Diesel external (oil to air) is an option.

Also fuel pressure and boost gauges.

On behalf of normal diesel drivers everywhere, thank you!

 

My first question to you would be.
What are you plans for this truck?

As for the BPD oil cooler. I think it way over priced for what it is.
I would say put studs in no mater what you plan on doing with Ford
OEM head gaskets.
With all the lifter problems some have seen I would replace all of
the lifters with a new set. The cam is up to you. I know that SDS (Anthony) likes
to use a new cam on his builds. The can is the last thing out and first
thing in on a full engine build.

Now this one I can't say one way or the other because I have a late style
HPOP pump. But they were having problems with the guts on the round pump
turning an/or spitting out the BB plug. There is a good thread on that topic and
the guys that run with that pump are better to talk to about it.

On ceramic coated pistons they are a lot of $$. If your doing things that run
up the heat then you might want to think about it


Lets see if Anthony of SDS will stop in and point a few things out.

Take photos as you dissemble it. They come in really handy when your
looking at something and thinking "Now How Did That Go In?"


Sean

 

Old style hpop was failure prone. New style is very reliable. If you're building the engine yourself, do yourself a favor and buy/rent a cam timing tool, and rear main seal installing tool. I bought the front seal tool, but it didn't fit right, and I ended up driving it in with a socket. You won't be able to do that with the rear, it's 5 inches wide.
Don't remove the 6 bolts that hold the rear crank adapter on, if you do, and you don't get it back on perfectly, you will have an imbalance/seal leak problem. It's the main reason you need the cam timing tool.
Not to start a riot in here, but I used the black diamond head gaskets that came with my Victor Reinz rebuild kit - I'm convinced they are the same as the OEM. Not to be confused with black onyx, they were junk. It would have cost me over 600 bucks to buy OEM, as they come with the bolts, and I live in Canada, where you pay triple for parts. Get OEM if you can.
Get some anerobic silicone for the bedplate gasket, it's the latest trick on keeping it from leaking.
And like Sean said, take LOTS of pictures!
There is also a thread titled "Engine removal pics" posted by Anthony, but if you search it, it will show up on the 4th or 5th page, due to the sites search engine not being of google caliber.

 

Here is a pic of the crank adapter, and the 6 do not **** with bolts barely visible. It hides the timing marks on the crank and cam, making timing it a crapshoot. And if you get it wrong, the engine comes back out, and comes apart right down to the block, because the cam is the last thing to come out. I was being stubborn, and thinking of ways I could time it, maybe off the #1 lifter with a dial indicator, the guys on here finally convinced me to get the tool.










And looking at the picture of the engine stand reminded me... you'll need metric bolts to bolt it to the stand.

 

And here's a shiny picture, just to give you incentive!
And the filthy shop makes it look even better!







Hpop cover was getting a little massaging in this pic, so the IPR socket would fit easier

 

I would stick the the OEM oil cooler. BPD EGR cooler for sure though. For a turbo, I would consider a new Powermax ($1100) unless you can get yours rebuilt cheap (ie do it yourself for $120 in parts).

You might consider slightly larger injectors (if you are buying new ones anyway) - like 155cc. They would pair nicely with the Powermax turbo.

If you are paying to have all this work done, might it be more economical to get a new used truck or used engine (rather than rebuild). It seems most of the rebuilds are done by the owners themselves b/c labor gets out of control. Anyway, good luck.

 

The purpose of this truck is to be my daily driver for the foreseeable future. I have a newer truck, '11 F-250 lariat 6.2 gasser, but I just don't like the truck as much as I like my ol' Superbeast.


I'm building for reliability, but I'll gladly take any extra power I can get. (Without harming reliability or blowing black clouds.)

 

Ok, after searching and reading, it looks like I'll be going with whatever HPOP the new engine comes with. Will this make the computer freak out or anything?

 

Computer just reads hpo from the icp sensor, so it shouldn't care what kind of pump is producing it.

I have a big pdf thingy that was e-mailed to me by a guy not far from you... it shows step by step overhaul instructions. I can e-mail it to you if you want it.

 

PM sent. Thanks!

 

I have never rebuilt a 6.0L. I have only replaced a small few (no where as many as the 6.4L) because the block is pretty stout. The few I have seen fail have died because of melted pistons - stuck injectors that kept on delivering fuel. Technically you can't machine the heads because that changes the compression ratio - people do it. Honestly, the best advice I can give is the most boring. Get a Ford Reman complete. Have it installed. It comes with a warranty (3 year unlimited mileage?) and then do the proper maintenance. Change the oil every 5k, recharge the coolant at 30 and 60k then replace it at 90k. Change the fuel filter every other oil change. If you use it to go grocery shopping then at least once a week go for a sunday drive that includes a long mountain climb to generate heat. Use cetane booster to keep the coking down...I am boring my self now so I am going to stop...

 

Sent you the files. Hope you have good internet, it took about a minute to send them. And there's a boring little line somewhere on the 3rd or 4th page that tells you to turn the motor over to 6 o'clock... it's to keep the valves and pistons from getting too personal while you're tightening the heads and valvetrain down.

 

GOt them. Thanks John!

 

Thank Scotty... I don't think I ever did, and those files were a life saver!