changing hpop lines
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,346
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From: Connecticut
changing hpop lines
Just curious because I may do this before the summer is over.Whats involved in changing the entire 2 lines not just orings.It looks like the ones coming out of the hpop are pretty managable without removing much but what do you have to remove to get the to the other end into the heads?if anything at all.Looks crowded in there.My trucks nearing 100,000 and from reading this might be something to consider,Just hate messing with things when they are working,not leaking.I see guys getting 240000 miles without a leak and others at 60,000 from the hpop..I couldnt find a link on changing the lines.I did search....
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Get the disconnect tool from Diesel O rings or Riffraff. It will make the job much easier. I changed both my lines when I was installing a FPR rebuild kit so I had the fuel lines on the side of the bowl disconnected above the HPOP, but I didn't remove anything to get the lines out of the heads.
I did get an oil leak today from what appears to be the o-ring on the fitting that screws into the head. I'll look tomorrow when the engine is cool, but I'm thinking that instead of ordering one HPO line with a 90 deg fitting on each end and ordering the other with one straight and one 90 deg fitting, I would have been better off getting two with 90 deg fittings on both ends. The new lines are MUCH thicker than the old ones and it's a tighter squeeze getting the line with the straight end to fit.
I did get an oil leak today from what appears to be the o-ring on the fitting that screws into the head. I'll look tomorrow when the engine is cool, but I'm thinking that instead of ordering one HPO line with a 90 deg fitting on each end and ordering the other with one straight and one 90 deg fitting, I would have been better off getting two with 90 deg fittings on both ends. The new lines are MUCH thicker than the old ones and it's a tighter squeeze getting the line with the straight end to fit.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,346
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From: Connecticut
Thanks, good to know.. I do have the special tool from clay because I have the orings already for the hpop lines but have been reading lately on here about the old lines chaffing through and guys just changing the entire line...200 bucks though for both though.. Im sure iys worth it when ur pulling a 10000 pound camper 400 mile from home though...Which is why im considering it as preventive. But you developed a leak after changing them?So I dont know....
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
I won't know till tomorrow either. The leak does appear to be from the fitting in the head and not the line itself, but who knows.
Of course there's nothing wrong with buying the lines and just carrying them around for a while just in case one does blow. My old lines went 360,000 miles without a drip. Maybe I just didn't tighten one fitting up enough when I pulled it out. I'll let you know.
Of course there's nothing wrong with buying the lines and just carrying them around for a while just in case one does blow. My old lines went 360,000 miles without a drip. Maybe I just didn't tighten one fitting up enough when I pulled it out. I'll let you know.
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Thanks, good to know.. I do have the special tool from clay because I have the orings already for the hpop lines but have been reading lately on here about the old lines chaffing through and guys just changing the entire line...200 bucks though for both though.. Im sure iys worth it when ur pulling a 10000 pound camper 400 mile from home though...Which is why im considering it as preventive. But you developed a leak after changing them?So I dont know....
Riffraff Diesel: HPOP/ Related
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 4
From: Connecticut
Good to know,thanks clay... By the way received my non ebpv pedistal yesterday, ill be attempting this fix next weekend, Ive started spraying powerblaster every three days on those clamps already.. Thanks again..
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
It was the o-ring between the fitting and the head. I pulled the fittings and changed the o-rings (which felt fine) when I changed the lines. The one on the driver side was split in two when I got it off. It was an easy fix since I have spare o-rings.
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From: Gulf Coast of Florida
When changing out those lines do your VERY BEST to get all the oil off all the threads. I used Q-tips with some brake cleaner sprayed on the Q-tip, not in the port or on the hose end. Well, I did that way the 2nd time I did it! Mine have 190,000 on them but I did replace all the o-rings on all the HPOP side fittings.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,346
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From: Connecticut
When changing out those lines do your VERY BEST to get all the oil off all the threads. I used Q-tips with some brake cleaner sprayed on the Q-tip, not in the port or on the hose end. Well, I did that way the 2nd time I did it! Mine have 190,000 on them but I did replace all the o-rings on all the HPOP side fittings.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
When changing out those lines do your VERY BEST to get all the oil off all the threads. I used Q-tips with some brake cleaner sprayed on the Q-tip, not in the port or on the hose end. Well, I did that way the 2nd time I did it! Mine have 190,000 on them but I did replace all the o-rings on all the HPOP side fittings.
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