Upgrading the 4.9l
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: town of less than 200 ppl
Upgrading the 4.9l
My 95 just recently turned 190,000 miles. I have a blown out oilpan gasket, and the drip bothers me. I am thinking about pulling the motor out at 200,000 miles to put all new gaskets in, and while I have it out I don't want to waste the oportunity. I am wanting to get a little more torque outta this little monster. I'm not concerned with going fast, I just want to get a nice little bump in power and hopefully see some fuel mileage gains. I am having a hard time deciding what cam I want to go with, and if I need new lifters. I have read some similar threads about this exact type of build, but most are lacking the parts they ended up using. What would be a good cam choice? Do I go with a cam and lifter kit? I don't really want to do any headwork yet. I'm not looking for the baddest 300 on the street, just a nice little torque jump. I am aiming for around 300 ft/lbs if this is possible out of the stock injectors. What would all be needed for this type of gain? I plan on going with a free-flow dual exhaust as well (probably straight pipes, no cats or mufflers)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
I concur. New cam must use new lifters, so buy a kit if available, as it's usually a bit cheaper.
New gears are due anyways, as the stock cam gear is known to fail after 200K, so the steel gearset is another great option.
I can't recommend a cam, just make sure whatever you choose says it is compatible with the stock EFI/ECU.
New gears are due anyways, as the stock cam gear is known to fail after 200K, so the steel gearset is another great option.
I can't recommend a cam, just make sure whatever you choose says it is compatible with the stock EFI/ECU.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eastern Ky
As stated, a camshaft and lifters are mated for life....An Idle-4,500 rpm cam should do for 0-whatever mph...And deliver the torque down LOW.....
An adjustable set of timing gears, and have them advanced a notch will also help on the torque...
A mild port of the head will help....
Lower rear gears will also pull the torque and power bands where they are needed...
An adjustable set of timing gears, and have them advanced a notch will also help on the torque...
A mild port of the head will help....
Lower rear gears will also pull the torque and power bands where they are needed...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: town of less than 200 ppl
Okay thank you guys. I have helped my dad build a couple motors, but he ordered the parts he wanted, and I just helped him put everything together. This one is in my hands, and I would like to do it right. Can I hit 300 ft/lbs without making the computer go crazy, or am I asking too much of it at that point? Also, at this many miles I am thinking that the valves are probably worn pretty good. Should I be looking into new valves/seats etc?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eastern Ky
300 ft. lbs isn't THAT big of a stretch, when you consider the trucks came with around 275 ft. lbs stock....
I would think after puttting a new cam kit in, porting the head, 1.7 Roller rockers, adjustable timing gears with about a 4* advance, and the dizzy advanced to around 12-13*.....I'd say you'll feel the difference in the butt dyno...
But a word of caution....Without a re-gear, and using higher gear ratio's, you won't see a BIG difference till you get the rpm/ powerband mated with the drivetrain....
Ask Bill about it...(6Cylbill).....He said the 4.10's were a smidge TOO low....
-Wes
I would think after puttting a new cam kit in, porting the head, 1.7 Roller rockers, adjustable timing gears with about a 4* advance, and the dizzy advanced to around 12-13*.....I'd say you'll feel the difference in the butt dyno...
But a word of caution....Without a re-gear, and using higher gear ratio's, you won't see a BIG difference till you get the rpm/ powerband mated with the drivetrain....
Ask Bill about it...(6Cylbill).....He said the 4.10's were a smidge TOO low....
-Wes
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: town of less than 200 ppl
So should I not even waste my time then? Should I just pull it and put all new gaskets in? I hate to waste a golden oportunity, but if Its not going to make any difference, then whats the point of spending all that money?
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eastern Ky
I'm not saying "Don't do it"....I'm just saying, you have to mate everything.....GO ahead, do the engine, that way it's DONE.....Just remember to re-gear the rear end to match....
I'm wanting to do the same thing, so I say GO FOR IT!
I'm wanting to do the same thing, so I say GO FOR IT!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Almost Heaven
Wes is right about the re-gear. Unlike a lot of engines, with the 300, you can over-gear it. A 300 will run better with higher gears than it will with lower gears if you don't provide the correct gears for the powertrain.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
Cam/lifters are up to you. A decent computer freindly cam can make a difference, but not as much as can be done with older carbed engines. The ECU has limitations on how much cam it can deal with. 3.55's and 33's are about the max that will work well with a 300. Most V8's have a harder time dealing with 33's and 3.55's, but the low RPM torque of the 300 makes it a bit more doable. Increasing the torque will have some effect, but it may not be quite what you expect.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eastern Ky
I will say this much. If you pull the engine to reseal it, go ahead and change the cam gear at least. The factory cam gears are very prone to failing after 200K. Some don't even make it that far. When they fail, the chunks can cause the oil pump pickup to become plugged, which leads to either pulling the pan to replace the pickup, or severe engine damage from loss of oil pressure/flow.
Cam/lifters are up to you. A decent computer freindly cam can make a difference, but not as much as can be done with older carbed engines. The ECU has limitations on how much cam it can deal with. 3.55's and 33's are about the max that will work well with a 300. Most V8's have a harder time dealing with 33's and 3.55's, but the low RPM torque of the 300 makes it a bit more doable. Increasing the torque will have some effect, but it may not be quite what you expect.
Cam/lifters are up to you. A decent computer freindly cam can make a difference, but not as much as can be done with older carbed engines. The ECU has limitations on how much cam it can deal with. 3.55's and 33's are about the max that will work well with a 300. Most V8's have a harder time dealing with 33's and 3.55's, but the low RPM torque of the 300 makes it a bit more doable. Increasing the torque will have some effect, but it may not be quite what you expect.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: town of less than 200 ppl
I am going to do some shopping around, and if I can find a cam kit cheap enough I will go ahead and order one. If nothing else, I will know I have a good cam, lifters,etc. in the motor, and won't have to worry about it for another 200K miles, hopfully.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,208
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From: North Reading Mass
The timing gears, freeze plugs, oil pump, and a gasket set would be the minimum if I was pulling my 222k mile engine. on other engines I have done the cam and lifters but was advised to change the valve springs and seals.
If you get an adjustable timing set it will enable the cam to be set 4 degrees advanced. Ford retarded the valve timing 4 degrees for emission reasons and changing it could could cause the engine to fail a sniff test.
A good port and polish should get your torque at 300 with a good exhaust system.
regards
rikard
God Bless America
The victims of terror sleep sounder tonight
If you get an adjustable timing set it will enable the cam to be set 4 degrees advanced. Ford retarded the valve timing 4 degrees for emission reasons and changing it could could cause the engine to fail a sniff test.
A good port and polish should get your torque at 300 with a good exhaust system.
regards
rikard
God Bless America
The victims of terror sleep sounder tonight