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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #16  
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I live in Nebraska, so no sniff tests to worry about here. Actually, no inspections of any kind to worry about (yet). I would love to get my head p&p, but I don't have $1000 for that, and I don't know if I trust myself to do it just yet. Sitting at 200K miles, I think I might go ahead and put new springs and seals in while I have it out. Thanks for the info. Rikard!
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by big-ugly
I live in Nebraska, so no sniff tests to worry about here. Actually, no inspections of any kind to worry about (yet). I would love to get my head p&p, but I don't have $1000 for that, and I don't know if I trust myself to do it just yet. Sitting at 200K miles, I think I might go ahead and put new springs and seals in while I have it out. Thanks for the info. Rikard!
Only $100 here for a P & P.....And another $100 to shave/bore/deck the block or head....Your choice...
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Man I guess I am going to have to call up my machine shop and see what they would charge to port this thing for me. I have read on other threads that people were wanting up to a grand for the job.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 07:53 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by big-ugly
Man I guess I am going to have to call up my machine shop and see what they would charge to port this thing for me. I have read on other threads that people were wanting up to a grand for the job.
Ive been looking for someone to do some headwork. Ford six has a list of recommended machine shops. I found a shop within a few miles of where I live!! I was really excited until I got the quote for 1,200.00. I had to pass.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 09:02 AM
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and actually, if you don't want to pull your engine, jack it up, put 2x4 blocks under the mounts, take out the grille and all and the oil pan snakes right out the front, I tried for a whole day to get it out the back and its a no-go. I think I had to unbolt the oil pump pickup and that's about it. I replaced the oilpan and cam cover gaskets and well, just passing 500k miles and running well.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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I know a machinist very well that I will call about the P&P. My dad has gone to him for his machining on all of the engines that I have built with him, so he is a trusted guy. If he quotes me anything like that, I will have to respectfully decline.

I think I will pull the engine to replace everything, as it is just simply easier to work on everything when its out. Plus, it gives me a reason to work on my truck, and will give me some quality father-son time.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Amphenol
Ive been looking for someone to do some headwork. Ford six has a list of recommended machine shops. I found a shop within a few miles of where I live!! I was really excited until I got the quote for 1,200.00. I had to pass.
Just got done checking our ford six's list of shops. Nothing even remotely close to me, but thank you for the advice.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #23  
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Comp cams puts some really nice cam and lifter sets together. We used a 260H in our '95 E150 van. Loaded down past its limits all the time, it pulled great through the mid range and we could still get high teens in mileage. However, if you get a cam that recommends a spring change, do it. We didn't, and after 40K miles, the springs are all screwed up.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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Well, the 300 pulls anyway, I came coast to coast at 24,500 pounds towing a gooseneck trailer, indeed the top speed was only 54 mph on the flat and gas mileage was 6.4 average but that 4.9 dug in and dragged that monster trailer even over that 8000 foot pass heading toward Laramie, WY and 8700 feet across Sherman summit without much complaint or horsepower left over. 300 will pull forever, if you want wheel spinnin, get a high revving 302 or a 351

Actually had a break down in Lincoln NE, Bronco quit runnin, so chained the Bronco and the boat to the back of the flat deck trailer and the 300 dragged all 36,000 pounds across town to the Ford dealership for repair (broken ECM ground wire inside the battery connector)
 
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