I'm going to *slightly* disagree with dusty. When you put oil in it, substitute 1 qt of ATF for oil. ATF has both cleaning qualities, and lubricating qualities. Any gum/varnish in the oiling system will be disolved pretty quickly by the ATF once the oil is warmed up to normal operating temp.
ATF is, in my opinion, the best engine flush product on the market. It also contains seal conditioners, so it can slow down/stop seals from leaking.
I also use it for wiping the cyl walls and pistons/rings during engine assembly, and have always had great results with the rings seating quickly.

 

I've heard a lot of good things about ATF in the oil. When you do that, though, do you just leave it in there the entire duration? (aka 3000 miles between oil changes). Or is it a "run it through the engine to clean it out, and then immediately change the oil again" kinda things?

 

My two cents worth: As a kid working in a shop, if a customer had us install a j/y engine, we would rev the heck out of the engine once installed, and pour ATF right down the carb to clean out the chambers, etc. Now days the EPA would prob. send me to Fed. lock up for that.

 

It's not a disagreement, that is something I have never tried. which atf do you use? I may try that out on one of the older mowers I bought that didn't have such good care.

 

I use either type F or dex II, whichever is cheap and handy.

As for how long you leave it in the engine, depends. A really gunked up engine will need the oil changed after 500-1000 miles, as the sludge/crud will start disolving and tun the oil very black, very quick. It can be left longer, but the oil filter *could* become clogged. An engine that doesn't have sludge/gunk buildup can be run with the ATF in it for the normal oil change interval.
Checking the oil, and looking at how black it gets, will determine how long you want to leave it in there.

 

Okay, sounds good. It was pretty clean inside, I'm just concerned about little oil passages I couldn't check when it was open.

And F-250... When no one's looking... I might try your carb idea.
The intake/exhaust valves were pretty cruddy. I did my best to clean them but there's only so much you can do through the little ports.

 

Some pics of the process:


The engine I'm putting in:














Some pics of the actual swap:
























Was getting tired, so I didn't take any pics of putting the new one in. But, it's in.

 

Well, finally got everything hooked up and back in place.
Turned the engine over a couple times by hand to fill the fuel bowl with fuel and lubricate the oil a little bit. Hit the starter and it fired right up on the second or third crank. Can't argue with that!
Stumbled, clacked, and blew some cobwebs out the tailpipe, and then smoothed out and idled like glass.

It's kinda noisy, but it pulls strong and drives really smooth. Went for a 10 mile drive with some uphill 55mph and it pulled up it without a hitch. I'd say $50 well spent!!

It's just clacks a bit. I'm thinking the lifters are pretty gummed up from sitting, so I'm hoping things'll clean out and quiet down in a few days.

Either way, it should work great for some time.

 

Yeah!! Stand up and take a bow, AB. Good for you.

 

Great to hear!

Have you tried the ATF trick yet? If not, I would highly advise it.

 

Thanks guys. Yeah, it's great to have it up and running, especially with how easy it started up. 2 minutes of tuning with a vac gauge and it was good to go.

Drives nice, good oil pressure, strong vacuum signal, smooth, so I can't complain. Just need to figure out what is clattering so I can put my mind at ease. All the main and rod bearings seemed tight when I checked them out before installing it.

When I put oil in it, I put 5 quarts of regular oil and 1 quart of ATF with a new filter. I'll give it a few days and see if it quiets down. I'll also get a video. Maybe you guys can help me track it down.


Last, but not least, I think this is the first time I've ever sealed up an engine and it doesn't leak oil.

 

Last, but not least, I think this is the first time I've ever sealed up an engine and it doesn't leak oil.[/quote]


LOL!! Go figure, uh? That's just wrong. Cheers.

 

YouTube - MOV066.MOD

Okay, here's a video of the engine.
I mostly just want to be sure the clatter isn't something that's going to "go out" and leave me stranded. Since it's just a temporary engine, I'm not going to worry about it too much, but I want to be sure I can trust it before I leave town with it.

 

Just sounds like lifters to me. Could be from varnish, could just need adjusted a bit. If varnished up inside, the ATF will disolve it, especially if taken on a long-ish drive to keep the oil warm and flowing for a while.
Got good oil pressure? If so, should be fine.

 

That'd be great if that's all it is. Before I put it in, I checked it over, and all the crank and rod bearings felt tight. The rocker arms, however, were wobbly, and the lifters felt like they had a lot of play (didn't pull the lifter cover but figured it was because the lifters had de-primed from sitting). Oil pressure is great, so maybe it'll just clear up.


My other concern is that it runs HOT. The temp gauge settles pretty much right before the H on the temp gauge (where you'd be pulling over immediately if you saw it). But, I checked it, the radiator's full, it's hot before and after the thermostat, both hoses to the heater core are hot, seems like it's working fine. I drove it for a while (temp gauge peaked out) and it seemed just fine. The only difference is the temp sender, which has been sitting on this engine for several years. Possible it's just shot?