almost forgot..... mark around your hood hinge with perminant marker, so you get it back where it was before you removed it

 

Heya Andre,
How goes it?

Sounds like its possible that your hoist may be a bit taller than the one I'm using. Guess I'll see how it goes when I pull it out.

And yeah, aside from a cracked rocker arm nut (oh no!) I haven't found anything wrong with it! $50 well spent so far.

 

Heh, dish detergent, I wouldn't have thought of that. I was thinking something like Purple Power or the like, but didn't know how that'd treat the internals.

Where the coil bolts and the #5 cylinder seems like a really good place to put things. Seems like it'd balance it really well. I'll have to try that.

I have this one on a stand right now and it works really well, but I definitely won't move it with the engine in place. Right now, I have a jack stand under the front end of it to support some of the weight. I forgot I could roll the engine over on the stand to work on the crank/oil pan. I'll be sure to be extra careful when rolling it over since I believe this is the one leg style (even though the wheels do extend to the sides for support.)

 

shop manual show's them both on the right side as well as the haynes manual for mine but that doesnt look right unless it's just the block like to me.

I went with #6 intake bolt with a mod'd hook up point and then a taped hole by the water pump.

I think the book install points are for a bare block myself

 

Any new progress with the motor swap/rebuild?

 

Not yet. Hoping to get the donor engine cleaned up with new gaskets this weekend.

 

Any clues as to why the 260 cam started eating lifters? Everything sounded like it went back togeather smooth towards the end.

 

It could be one of a number of things.
I did everything I could to break it in properly, but it still failed.

The first guess is that it didn't take very well to a new lifter, since I had a few previous bad ones and had to break in a second set.

The other is a manufacturing defect.


In a way, I'd have rather it been my fault. Then, at least, I'd be able to avoid my mistake on the second go around.

 

Makes you wonder what (quality control) really means. I've got almost three weeks in my rebuild, and I enjoy the work, but it will be nice to hopefully enjoy the job being done. Best of luck all goes well for you this time. (knock on wood)

 

Do you have pics of your build?

Thanks, I hope it all goes well. Since my vehicle will be up and running with this donor engine, I'm going to be taking it slow. A little here, a little there, and do it up just how I want it. It should be a great learning experience. I've done a lot, but I've never rebuilt an engine before.

Yeah, it's unfortunate when companies let their quality control slip. You trust them, and they let you down.

 

there are disasymbly pics in my photos, hopping to have all the block scrubbed and ready for prime and paint this weekend, then ontoo reasymbly.

 

Sounds like fun, what color scheme you going with? That gray in the pics?

 

yeah, the 87-91 motors were all gray from the factory, they were (old ford gray) thats new ford gray, and im going to do the block in old ford blue, too break things up a little. I wasn't real fond of the gray at first but it makes it really easy to spot any type of fluid leaks so I decided to keep it.

 

Okay, got the motors swapped this weekend! Took my brother and I about 6 hours for the full swap. Really not too bad. The most time consuming and frustrating part of it was getting the transmission and the engine to separate (about two hours).

About the only tool I didn't have, and didn't think of beforehand, was a clutch alignment tool to swap the clutch from one engine to the other. Had to run and get that ($5).

As for the engine clearance, I just needed to remove the hood and the hoist was able to lift it high enough with plenty of room to spare while clearing the radiator support. It wasn't an issue at all.

Once it was all bolted to the transmission and to the frame, we were done for the day. Next is hooking back up all the externals. Ignition, water pump, radiator, intake/exhaust, carb, etc. Then, fill it up with coolant and oil, and fire it up and see how it does. Easy stuff.

I cleaned it out as best I could, but I think once its up and running, I'll be running some sea-foam through it, as well as some Gunk or something after the first oil change to give it a good internal cleaning. It was really clean inside (oil pan, valve cover, etc) but just want to make sure the lifters are all unstuck and the passages are clean.

 

Don't put any additives in the oil. Just change it like a new engine. 500 miles, 1500 miles, 3500 miles from then on, and you will be fine. all the dirt and trash should come out 1st oil change.