D44: Solid & TTB part compatibility
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,769
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From: Northeast Nebraska
D44: Solid & TTB part compatibility
I just bought a solid D44 out of a 79 Bronco to swap into my 81 F150 tonight. The Bronco's axle is set up for coil springs like mine is so I figured this oughta be a pretty clean cut swap, I hope.
The previous owner, however, did rob the driver's side axle shaft and locking hub off the axle for another vehicle of his so I got
to wondering if any of the parts like those mentioned would be interchangeable between the TTB and the sold D44?
Has anyone out there tried anything like this or have any idea about it? Thanks in advance for any and all help!
-Kenny
The previous owner, however, did rob the driver's side axle shaft and locking hub off the axle for another vehicle of his so I got
to wondering if any of the parts like those mentioned would be interchangeable between the TTB and the sold D44?
Has anyone out there tried anything like this or have any idea about it? Thanks in advance for any and all help!
-Kenny
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
Dunno about the axle, but the locking hub should be the same.
The solid axle used in the 79-older trucks used a longer radius arm, along with a track rod, so those will need to be considered. Not sure about any other variations.....
The solid axle used in the 79-older trucks used a longer radius arm, along with a track rod, so those will need to be considered. Not sure about any other variations.....
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South Jersey
From reading another thread on here there were many posters who felt there were no strength differences between the ttb and solid d44's. About the only gain you get is possibly better tire wear.
Assuming the above I true that seems like a lot of work for no real upgrade. So that begs the question... why do it?
Assuming the above I true that seems like a lot of work for no real upgrade. So that begs the question... why do it?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,769
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From: Northeast Nebraska
Meanwhile, my 9" in the rear goes to hell, so now is the time to do the gears if I've got to rebuild it anyway. I found this guy on Craigslist with the axles I bought that not only match each other, but have gears in them that are about what I wanted, should bolt right in, and don't need as much work as the ones under my truck right now. Also, the solid is easier to align and looks cooler, but those are more like opinions rather than facts, I suppose haha.
So, if the internal parts would only match up, it would just make my day. Unfortunately, I won't get to the project until this summer or possibly even winter...thus is the life of a farmer.
This space for rent...
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: In the garage
Calipers, lockouts, center chunk, and bearings can be swapped between the two. Rotors may or may not fit. So you can use your TTB lockout on the solid, but the axle shafts will not work as they are different lengths. It's also a no go on the spindles and knuckles.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: San Diego
They (ifs versions) are super easy to take apart and put back together. Plenty of detail in haynes and chiltons books to put the while thing back together.
4 bushings in the whole thing, radius arm and pivot bushings are it.
4 bushings in the whole thing, radius arm and pivot bushings are it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Northeast Nebraska
I've read on a few other forums about the TTB, and it always seems like a love 'em or hate 'em deal with them. Logic tells me that the solid would have fewer moving parts, therefore not needing as much maintenance. Would I be wrong with that thought?
Thanks for all the input thus far, guys!
-Kenny
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
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From: San Diego
IFS have only one more u-joint, and there are two axle housings instead of one.
I think it is the Chiltons that really details the spindle and hub assembly, and all you have to do is look at LMC or Bronco Graveyard catalog for assembly of the whole thing. Plus dana has full maintenance instructions freely available here:
Dana Holding Corporation The Expert Librarian - Information for driveshafts, u-joints, axles, heavy axles, light axles, Drivelines
I think it is the Chiltons that really details the spindle and hub assembly, and all you have to do is look at LMC or Bronco Graveyard catalog for assembly of the whole thing. Plus dana has full maintenance instructions freely available here:
Dana Holding Corporation The Expert Librarian - Information for driveshafts, u-joints, axles, heavy axles, light axles, Drivelines
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Elder User
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From: San Diego
The bearings might be different too, I have never torn apart a solid axle, but the IFS one has the inner and outer wheel bearings plus a spindle bearing that is in between the inside of the spindle and the outer axle shaft.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
If the center section will swap between the solid and TTB versions, that's what I would do. At least the D44 TTB has a dropout pumpkin, like the 9" rear. I don't know about the D44 solid. If it also has the dropout center, and it will fit the TTB, that would be the easiest way to regear without having to do a lot of fabrication to make the solid axle fit the truck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
If the center section will swap between the solid and TTB versions, that's what I would do. At least the D44 TTB has a dropout pumpkin, like the 9" rear. I don't know about the D44 solid. If it also has the dropout center, and it will fit the TTB, that would be the easiest way to regear without having to do a lot of fabrication to make the solid axle fit the truck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
Bummer. I haven't messed with any D44 solid axles, so I honestly had no clue. Oh well, it was a thought.......
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