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I got a full set from Clay at Riffraff Diesel. These little jewels come in different colors. I went with smoked for mine. The color looks to be an outer sleeve over the braided hose. Nice quality and they can be made to any length according to Clay.
how did the braided lines change your pedal feel? Solid as a rock now? I ask because on my f450 I have a spongy pedal, I know my power steering pump leaks a bit from the cap and the last time I was under the dash I noticed some fluid coming in through the shaft on the brake master cylinder. The truck had a bad habit of puking the fluid from the power steering pump for the longest time. I had been using power steering fluid... the A-holes at autozone told me that was what I wanted. I found here that is not true and it doesn't leak and puke as much anymore. I am thinking the pump is weak and it is making the brakes weak.
Not to Hijack the post, the tool is awesome. If I didn't have brothers or a kid to pump it for me, I know what I will be building.
The pedal is solid, I will find out how much more when towing this summer. Just driving around there is a slight difference, but it could also be from doing the flush/bleed procedure.
Do you guys first empty the master cylinder by flushing out the system with air pressure, or do you attempt to never let the reservoir get to the bottom, and use a turkey baster (or similar) to get most of the old first?
Pop- I use a mighty vac to get most of it out first. But I do not let it go dry. It wouldn't be the end of the world, but I don't want any more air in there than necessary.
Pop- I use a mighty vac to get most of it out first. But I do not let it go dry. It wouldn't be the end of the world, but I don't want any more air in there than necessary.
Same for me, pull out as much old fluid as I can, then let the lines bleed until plenty of clear fluid comes out.
Good morning, just happened to stumble onto this thread, and was thinking about the cap setup. Would it be possible to use one of those beveled rubber stoppers, that they use in chemistry labs, and a couple of zip ties to hold it in place, or do you think the psi would be too much? Seems to me, this would be a good way to use this on many different vehicles without the need to buy many different caps.
Don't really need to seal the cap. Add fluid to the reservoir and spin on a modified cap with a male disconnect on it. Adjust the air compressor for 10psi and start cracking bleeders. As long as the air compressor can supply the more volume of air than what the cap is leaking then you will maintain enough pressure to push fluid. The last flush i did i didn't even use the sprayer bottle. Do one caliper at a time. There is plenty of fluid in the reservoir to get all the old fluid out.