I got a set of braided brake lines for the truck and put them on tonight. Knowing this was a project for the last couple weeks I decided to splurge on a one-man bleeder tool. I found the Motive 0107 online but it was $50-$60. In my searching, I found a few DIY bleeders online, so I decided to build one instead.

I got a standard garden sprayer at HD for $6 and change. Picked up a couple barbed fittings and went to the auto parts store to get a master cylinder cap and some brake fluid. While there I found a cheap pressure gauge too. Built it for around $25 (could save some cash if you already have a spare cap for the master cylinder, they are pricey for what they are)

Put it together and used it tonight after the lines were swapped out. Man have I been doing this the hard way for way to long!

I filled the fluid up and pumped the pressure up to 10-15psi. crawled under the back and did the rears, then did the same up front. Total time was under10 minutes. The fluid flowed out nice and fresh fluid was there in no time.

I suggest anyone that plans on doing brakes build up one of these little units as it is a huge time saver!

Here are some pictures...........cause we all like pictures!

 

What a great idea Ken, nice....

 

Yup. Always challenge yourself to make your own stuff.. FUN !.. Exactly what i did.

I had trouble with my cap leaking though. Tried different things. Looking for a better cap.

 

I discovered right off that I can not get the cap to seal. Tried different seals and orings. Etc. Two different caps and two different master cylinder reservoirs(different truck). I ended up setting the tank aside and just used the cap to put air in the top of the reservoir. I used 10psi. It was leaking air but it still pressurized the system. You got yours to seal? I even checked into the special cap that is offered with the Purchased Kit. They wanted $25 plus shipping just for the special cap.

I have had this sketch in my desk drawer for over a year to make. Out of aluminum or nylon and it will seal on the inside of the reservoir neck instead of the sealing surface under the cap. A modified cap will hold it down into position.

The reservoirs are so big I was able to totally flush the lines with about 2 cups of fluids, which the reservoirs stores more than that.. So I just a modified cap with a male disconnect and the air compressor set to 10psi worked without the container.

What braided lines did you purchase?

 

X2, nothing like fabbing up a custom solution to a problem. Helps us all.

One modification I'd suggest would be a bungee cord or small chain to wrap around the bottom of the master cylinder to prevent damage to the reservoir seal. It's not designed for pressure, and this would ensure you didn't blow the reservoir to master cylinder seal.

 

I think it will take quite a bit to blow the reservoir off. I had to change a couple of them and they "are on there" Tug and Tug to get them off, almost breaking them doing so.. 10-15 psi shouldn't be a problem

If those two tubes is like .5 id. 15 psi is around 2.94 pounds x 2 of force trying to blow off. I don't remember the specifics dimensions of the reservoir for actual calcs

 

Mine didn't want to seal either. I ended up pulling the seal and running a bead of silicone to build up the contact area. It now holds pressure fine. A little thicker rubber seal would also work fine.

 

Nice idea. Great photos as well. I think I see a trip to the hardware store in my future....

Did you have to rig up something to depress the brake pedel during the bleeding procedure or did just pressurizing the reservoir do the trick?

 

Ken,

Nice DIY on the bleeder.

Greg,

Just the pressure will bleed the lines. I bought a new cap and moddied the old with a steel valve stem.
I just hook up the compressor at about 10 PSI to bleed. No hand pumping.

It leaks air but with some of these suggestions I'll get it to seal better.

 

I built mine too, and had problems with the cap leaking. It may be because I put too much pressure in the tank. I also think I need to put better rubber gaskets on the fitting in the top of the cap.

As mentioned, the cap and cap gasket are the two most expensive parts of the project...I think it was something like $15 just for the cap and gasket, and they were not even OEM parts!!!

 

i made one just like that, but i use it to add atf when i change it. works like a champ

 

That is just like mine except i used a male disconnect fitting so i can hook up on my air compressor hose. It is a sweet way of doing it and really all you need.

 

I tried multiple sealing gaskets,rubber,orings. Every time i thought i was going to twist off the little tabs on the reservoir tightening down the cap. I gave up.. Be careful tightening that cap down or you will be contacting Ed. I would be cautious of silliycone, don't need sillycone in your brake system. Brake fluid may dissolve sillycone, seems to dissolve everything else.

Just 10-15psi air pressure on a full reservoir, and started cracking loose bleeders. Never went into the cab.

 

Nice setup, I think i have another tool to build for yet another project, it never ends.

 

You guys are always finding ways for me to build things, fix things and spend little money....I love it.