Rear Brake problem
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Rear Brake problem
I can't seem to get the Brake Drum off because I can't get the hub part that the Wheel bearing is in off. I looked on youtube but can't find a setup like this.
I bought 2-1/2 and 2-3/4 sockets to get around that nut but I have had no luck. I don't think any of the stores even have a 3" socket for me to try. The 2-3/4 was rubbing a little on the outside.
Should I even have to remove the bearing? Or should the hub part come off? I soaked the drum and the hub part with penetrating Oil, but I don't want to damage anything that I need to remove first until I know. Thanks.
I changed my front brakes with someone a few years ago and have watched a few videos but this is like Greek.
(1980 f350 4wd)
I bought 2-1/2 and 2-3/4 sockets to get around that nut but I have had no luck. I don't think any of the stores even have a 3" socket for me to try. The 2-3/4 was rubbing a little on the outside.
Should I even have to remove the bearing? Or should the hub part come off? I soaked the drum and the hub part with penetrating Oil, but I don't want to damage anything that I need to remove first until I know. Thanks.
I changed my front brakes with someone a few years ago and have watched a few videos but this is like Greek.
(1980 f350 4wd)
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Hmmmmm....
That 3rd picture doesn't look quite like mine (1981 F350) ...
You see that slot? That holds a wedge that gets stuck inside some material on the lock nut, its purpose is to keep it from backing out by itself.
That nut I see there doesn't seem to have that material.
In any event, yes, that nut needs to come off in order for that entire assembly to be removed.
Lemme fire up my scanner and post a pic from the shop manual. Unfortunately, I don't have any pix of my own rear axle, maybe I'll take some next time I'm in there....
That 3rd picture doesn't look quite like mine (1981 F350) ...
You see that slot? That holds a wedge that gets stuck inside some material on the lock nut, its purpose is to keep it from backing out by itself.
That nut I see there doesn't seem to have that material.
In any event, yes, that nut needs to come off in order for that entire assembly to be removed.
Lemme fire up my scanner and post a pic from the shop manual. Unfortunately, I don't have any pix of my own rear axle, maybe I'll take some next time I'm in there....
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I already removed the little pin before these pics.
I managed to work that nut out by tapping it out (in the groove on the right) with a pair of needle nose pliers. Turns out I was right, one of the brake pads had broken down completely and only of a quarter of it was intact, though it just fell out.
The bolts or whatever hold the pad on were rubbing on the drum so I hope it isn't ruined
Thank you rabbit with bra, you are always very helpful.
Also this post may help others.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...m-removal.html
Also I thought the hub and drum were 2 different pieces, but they came off as 1 piece.
I managed to work that nut out by tapping it out (in the groove on the right) with a pair of needle nose pliers. Turns out I was right, one of the brake pads had broken down completely and only of a quarter of it was intact, though it just fell out.
The bolts or whatever hold the pad on were rubbing on the drum so I hope it isn't ruined
Thank you rabbit with bra, you are always very helpful.
Also this post may help others.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...m-removal.html
Also I thought the hub and drum were 2 different pieces, but they came off as 1 piece.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
OK, here ya go, from my 1981 shop manual.
Sorry for the size but they get too hard to read if I shrink 'em too much
(don't let your browser shrink these *for* you)
Here's a pic I got from google showing the wedges and the nuts, you can see how they have some pliable material into which the wedges are wedged.
<!--
-->
<img src="http://www.quad4x4.com/images/qk4008.jpg" width="1024">
Sorry for the size but they get too hard to read if I shrink 'em too much
(don't let your browser shrink these *for* you)
Here's a pic I got from google showing the wedges and the nuts, you can see how they have some pliable material into which the wedges are wedged.
<!--
--><img src="http://www.quad4x4.com/images/qk4008.jpg" width="1024">
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Well, it wasn't a total waste of time, I'll already have the pictures for next time.
Normal avatar will return next week.
Normal avatar will return next week.
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Sounds like you have groves worn in your drums and you need to adjust your breaks to set your hub assembly free. It should come right off once you get the nut out.
If it wont pull off easy its just your break shoes being stuck inside the drum.
If it wont pull off easy its just your break shoes being stuck inside the drum.
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I got everything put back together through the nut, but I want to be sure that I set the brakes right before I finish.
I was told to tighten the brakes until I can barely get the drum on. I did that and even backed off a little but it's still hard to turn by hand. Does this sound right?(I pumped the brakes a couple times too)
I was told to tighten the brakes until I can barely get the drum on. I did that and even backed off a little but it's still hard to turn by hand. Does this sound right?(I pumped the brakes a couple times too)
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If your drums are in good shape, that should be close enough.
Just a side note of caution:
I did my breaks a month ago.. And i didn't calculate the angle of my diff when i added the gear oil. Because my truck is lifted somewhat when I filled the pumpkin up to the hole like you normally would; it allowed more fluid to leak out..
Because my drive shaft is on a steeper angle then stock i actually put in less oil then was supposed to be in there. And there wasn't enough to trickle down and fill my hubs correctly. This resulted in one of my rear wheel bearings not getting enough lubrication and i seized a bearing on the highway and almost put it in the ditch.
I ended up buying a new/use rear end because im an idiot
This is really important with a 1980 f350.. if you look at yours.. you'll see that the fill hole is only a tiny tiny bit above the axle tubes.. so you gotta make sure you get enough in there.
Just a side note of caution:
I did my breaks a month ago.. And i didn't calculate the angle of my diff when i added the gear oil. Because my truck is lifted somewhat when I filled the pumpkin up to the hole like you normally would; it allowed more fluid to leak out..
Because my drive shaft is on a steeper angle then stock i actually put in less oil then was supposed to be in there. And there wasn't enough to trickle down and fill my hubs correctly. This resulted in one of my rear wheel bearings not getting enough lubrication and i seized a bearing on the highway and almost put it in the ditch.
I ended up buying a new/use rear end because im an idiot
This is really important with a 1980 f350.. if you look at yours.. you'll see that the fill hole is only a tiny tiny bit above the axle tubes.. so you gotta make sure you get enough in there.
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Before (notice what was left of the right pad underneath)
Here's after I changed stuff.
Obviously 3 photos stuck together.
Didn't really notice it, but is that little oil spot on the spring that crosses the purple spring in the pic bad?
Also I had this piece left over from the kit but I didn't see one fall while working or laying underneath during cleanup or in the pics, so I don't think I needed it....
I took it out for a test drive and everything seemed good, no sounds, vibrating, etc. Pretty smooth, but I think I may need to bleed the lines because I have a little mushiness (had this before changing) and I still have to do the other side.
Here's after I changed stuff.
Obviously 3 photos stuck together.
Didn't really notice it, but is that little oil spot on the spring that crosses the purple spring in the pic bad?
Also I had this piece left over from the kit but I didn't see one fall while working or laying underneath during cleanup or in the pics, so I don't think I needed it....
I took it out for a test drive and everything seemed good, no sounds, vibrating, etc. Pretty smooth, but I think I may need to bleed the lines because I have a little mushiness (had this before changing) and I still have to do the other side.
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I can't figure out where that piece goes, I don't see anywhere for it. I'm doing the other side and I don't see it there either, but the pin that sticks through the back to hold the side springs was broken where the shoe was moving outward at will, so I don't trust it for reference.
There are 2 spots I can see where it could go (not because there are notches but because they are connecting points of the Ebrake to other parts). The top which I didn't take apart, and the bottom.
There are 2 spots I can see where it could go (not because there are notches but because they are connecting points of the Ebrake to other parts). The top which I didn't take apart, and the bottom.