My starter switch came apart on the column a few months ago and the truck would not shut down. It ran about an hour in the parking lot.Me being new to diesels had no idea how to shut her down,so a buddy goes out and looks at it, he obviuosly knew less than I,he pulled the fuel filter,it didn't die(but it did dump about 5 gallons of fuel on the ground,then he removed the air breather and put a rag over it,it revved up pretty high then kealed over.
That being said, I've gone through all I know to(replaced stearter switch,replaced 2 burnt, and 6 good glowplugs, and put on a new gp relay)This is an 88 f250 7.3 idi And she acts like she wants to start but nothing yet.
I was reading about that starter switch having to be exact,is there a way to tell? When I turn the key on my wts light work properly and i get 121/2 volts to one leg of my ip. What am I missing?Please help.I know now what to do if it ever happens again, I just hope something bad aint happened.

 

Next time just pull the wire on the front drivers side if the IP...... that is the power for the FSS........ fuel shutoff solenoid.

What GPs did you use......... the only ones for our engines are Beru/Motorcraft!!!! or the IH Navistar equivilent


Beru ZD9

Ford F2TZ-12A342-A

IH 1819649C1


Motorcraft Glow Plugs (set of 8) 7.3 IDI Diesel '87-'94

 

they are berus, i had them on hand from before, they all test out fine with the light

 

yeah, now i know the whole pull the plug thingy, if i had known before i probably could've rep[laced the starter switch and drove her home.

 

Actually if there was still power to the FSS wire just hook it up and jumper the starter solenoid large connectors........vroom..... watch for sparks and make sure its in Park or Nuetral. Sent you an email........

 

could you resend the e mail? i just realized my old email was the one still listed ?it's fixed now, thank you so much

 

there are 2 plugs on the ip, should both get power or only the one? I have a book on the truck but it's not very thorough.

 

if the fuel filter was removed, make sure it is full. and even if the filter is full, you will still need to crank it a bit to purge the air from the pump and injector lines.

i have seen people run their trucks out of fuel, fill the filter up, and kill the batteries cranking it before it purges the air and fires up.

 

i have bled, bled, and rebled, is it possible on the gear to gear timing that it could've jumped? Doesn't seem likely to me, but somewhere something aint right,cranking revolutions sound fine,no clacking or popping, but it acts like it wants to start everynow and then, she just wont pull it all the way through.It did rev pretty high,i'm talking redline.

 

these engines are a lot tougher than gas engines, i've redlined mine a couple times, granted I blew my Main Oil seal XD. But its a slow leak. When you are purging the lines, you might want to crack the injector caps off and then start cranking til they are all wet. Also, make sure that when your cranking, not to go over 20 seconds of cranking for two minutes of cooldown, these starters get hot from having to work really hard to spin that flywheel.

 

I'll second what Aune said. Make sure you're getting a steady stream of fuel from the filter head, then crack all the injector lines, crank again til they're all wet and tighten everything up.

This is what i did after replacing my injection pump and got it running pretty quick...

EDIT: when i say filter head i mean the small tire stem lookin valve on the drivers side. It works just like a tire stem...

 

cool, i appreciate all the info,alot of work this weekend, but tues.& wed. are my off days.looks like truck time then i'll hopefully be telling you how good she's running by wed. eve. and not be looking for help...much thanks fellas

 

Instead of a lot of cranking with the starter - I eat a lot of junk parts house starters- I use an old innertube and hose clamp over the fuel neck with just a LITTLE air pressure to push the fuel up. Fill filter purge air at the schrader valve then crank a few lines till I get fuel then she'll start with the lines cracked. If it does not you will have to check IP fuel pressure to inj.