1977 build thread with pics
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
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looks real good keep up the good work!! i would suggest if you installed that new cam to drop the oil and run a 15-40 diesel engine oil for the 1st time as the new car oils have the phosphate removed and the diesel oil still contains that chemical its a must to avoid whipeing the cam and breaking it in
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Senior User
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Man I wish I had this money that you seem to have to spend on your truck. I'd love to have my tranny rebuilt and a few things done to the engine.
You even have this truck in high school, I didn't get mine till a year after, after years of trying to get one lol.
Personally I'd go with the fenderwell exit headers. I think it should help keep some of the heat out from under the hood from what I've read, and it just looks cool. I hope you're not goin with magnaflows like all of the magnaflow lovers on f150online. flowmasters sound amazing on these engines, and don't give you that stupid popping noise like a lot of straight throughs do that I've heard.
You even have this truck in high school, I didn't get mine till a year after, after years of trying to get one lol.
Personally I'd go with the fenderwell exit headers. I think it should help keep some of the heat out from under the hood from what I've read, and it just looks cool. I hope you're not goin with magnaflows like all of the magnaflow lovers on f150online. flowmasters sound amazing on these engines, and don't give you that stupid popping noise like a lot of straight throughs do that I've heard.
Miottimouse I have the moly lube on the cam and the machine shop threw in a free bottle of Lucas break in additive.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Sorry I haven't updated this im trying to post updates every week. Its been really busy month for me, im a senior in high school so im finishing up school and graduating in a week and my sister graduated college last weekend so i was out of town, then I went to see a Minnesota Twins game for my birthday. So not much has been done between school and work, but once school is over I should get alot done. I'm going to try and drop my transmission off at my buddies transmission shop tomorrow to get rebuilt, im thinking about getting heavy duty clutches installed so the C6 will hold up against the 466.
I'm considering buying a 2 inch body lift because body mounts are so expensive with hardware and i need new hard ware. But will a 2 inch body lift effect any of the transmission linkage,brake lines, ect? Also I wanted to hear some input on headers, I'm torn between L&L fender well exit or chassis exit?
I'm considering buying a 2 inch body lift because body mounts are so expensive with hardware and i need new hard ware. But will a 2 inch body lift effect any of the transmission linkage,brake lines, ect? Also I wanted to hear some input on headers, I'm torn between L&L fender well exit or chassis exit?
Anyways, the engine and frame are looking great. My block is in the shop right now getting prepped for assembly. As for the exhaust question, I am also wondering what you are planning on going with. I am thinking dual 2.5 or 3" to flowmaster 40s with exits right in front of the back wheels.
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Im actually by Watertown, SD. I was up in Moorehead, MN for my sisters graduation then we headed down to Minneapolis but I went on May 15th when the blue jays swept them but that was the first time I was at Target field
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Yeah, that was the first time I was there as well. I know now that I am only going to pay for the cheap seats from now on though. There is not a bad seat in the house at Target Field. And I am pretty sure I meant May 13th, as I got to see the boring a** part of the series where toronto swept them 
. 2-0 with the twins getting 6 or 8 hits I think.
. 2-0 with the twins getting 6 or 8 hits I think.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
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From: Backwoods of western Pa
Cool project, keep up the good work.
Just a tip - if you haven't installed the intake on the motor yet, I'd highly recommend painting it or clear coating it. It looks really good raw, but that won't last long. Give it 6 months to a year and it will look like crap. Ask me how I know...
On the Ford blue engine color, there are actually 3 different shades that I know of. There is Ford dark blue, which is what I used on my engine, Ford blue which is the lighter color, and Ford Antique Blue, which is in between the 2.
When you install the cam, make sure you use a 68-72 timing chain for "straight up" cam timing, unless you need to pass a smog test with it. The 73-up timing chains are retarded 8* for emissions.
Just a tip - if you haven't installed the intake on the motor yet, I'd highly recommend painting it or clear coating it. It looks really good raw, but that won't last long. Give it 6 months to a year and it will look like crap. Ask me how I know...
On the Ford blue engine color, there are actually 3 different shades that I know of. There is Ford dark blue, which is what I used on my engine, Ford blue which is the lighter color, and Ford Antique Blue, which is in between the 2.
When you install the cam, make sure you use a 68-72 timing chain for "straight up" cam timing, unless you need to pass a smog test with it. The 73-up timing chains are retarded 8* for emissions.
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Senior User
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The cam is already installed, and I used the timing chain the Edlebrock requires for that cam. And it has three positions straight up, advanced, and retarded so I installed it straight up to be safe. Why should I clear coat the intake?
We sat pretty close to home plate on the lower level, they were good seats.
We sat pretty close to home plate on the lower level, they were good seats.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
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From: Ohio
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Well its been almost all summer and i've spent most of it working to get money for this truck and college, but in the few hours i've been able to work on it i've got this done
Sorry the picture isn't that great, I couldn't find my camera so I used my blackberry.
Everything is undercoated using KBS coatings 3 step system which was great, I took the shock and coil towers off along with the radius arms and brackets and the motor perches to paint separate, but the radius arms are not back on in the pic. I also bought new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings for the front, and just bought new bump stops, body bushings and hardware, and transfer case bushing from broncograveyard.com. I also replaced all the bolts and nuts with Grade 8 bolts and nuts, they look really nice with the gloss black frame. So far the only thing left is to finish bending the brake lines and then put the drivetrain on and then the body.
Right now I can't decide what shocks and steering stabilizer to put on. What are you guys running? My dad has Monroe gas magnums on his 77 f150, but i don't know what brands are better.
Sorry the picture isn't that great, I couldn't find my camera so I used my blackberry.
Everything is undercoated using KBS coatings 3 step system which was great, I took the shock and coil towers off along with the radius arms and brackets and the motor perches to paint separate, but the radius arms are not back on in the pic. I also bought new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings for the front, and just bought new bump stops, body bushings and hardware, and transfer case bushing from broncograveyard.com. I also replaced all the bolts and nuts with Grade 8 bolts and nuts, they look really nice with the gloss black frame. So far the only thing left is to finish bending the brake lines and then put the drivetrain on and then the body.
Right now I can't decide what shocks and steering stabilizer to put on. What are you guys running? My dad has Monroe gas magnums on his 77 f150, but i don't know what brands are better.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Waterloo IL
Great thread. It wasn't a bad looking truck to start with. I've also got a 1977 F-150 4x4 that I did a paint job and 460 swap on. I went with the fender well headers. I see mixed reviews on this site on them but I absolutely love them and highly recommend them.
One thing I wanted to mention though. I also had the Performer 460 intake for my truck but sold it and went with a Performer RPM Air Gap when I noticed the ports in the Performer intake were smaller than the ports in a stock cast iron intake. Just food for thought, I assume the smaller ports add torque but with all those cubes I'm not really sure thats necessary.
One thing I wanted to mention though. I also had the Performer 460 intake for my truck but sold it and went with a Performer RPM Air Gap when I noticed the ports in the Performer intake were smaller than the ports in a stock cast iron intake. Just food for thought, I assume the smaller ports add torque but with all those cubes I'm not really sure thats necessary.
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I thought about the RPM air gap but since the cam was a performer I went with the performer intake. But down the road when I'm out of college I want to either put C8ve heads on it or aluminum heads then I can change the rocker arms and intake.
The old 400 was torn down by me when I took it out to see the cause of lost compression on 2 cylinders, right now it sits in the corner of my shop with no plans besides the junk yard someday since I already have another 400 block
The old 400 was torn down by me when I took it out to see the cause of lost compression on 2 cylinders, right now it sits in the corner of my shop with no plans besides the junk yard someday since I already have another 400 block
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Stroud, OKlahoma
well, if you can hold off scrapping it for about another 8 or 9 months till I get back to the U.S. I may be interested in some of the parts from it.... especially the compressor and bracket, if it works that is. depending on where in the country you are located too....lol