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Now all I need to do is put the intake, valve covers, and oil pan on for good. Then its pretty much done except for the distributor and headers and some other odds and ends to tie up
That paint is a darker shade than mine from what it looks like. Either you or I have the color that ins't ford blue unless there is two shades?
thats funny because my dad was looking at it and said thats not Ford blue, the pic makes it look darker so its actually a little lighter colored. I used Rustoluom Engine enamel paint and it said it was Ford blue
all thats left is the inside of the frame rail, I sandblasted the engine compartment last year but then it got to cold to use the undercoating so I gave it a quick coat of spray paint. Surprisingly the spray paint peels right off with the sand blaster an theres no rust underneath.
here's what the undercoating looks like, Its KBS coatings Rust Seal in Gloss black
I wish i would have started it all this year, my intentions were to lightly sandblast the frame without taking the body off, then I started to think thats stupid so i took the bed off. I started there and hoped to get it all sandblasted and undercoated before winter, then next spring I could pull the cab and front clip and finish it but that didn't happen.
But Its 100% under construction now, the cab should be in the body shop soon get get a new floor and corners and I plan on reupholstering the seat my self and redoing the interior once its back together and running
I think if you do it you might want to paint other things like the pulleys and alternator the same color. I would test on a scrap piece first to see if it matches the intake.
On my truck I am actually going to go with black for the water pump, alternator, pulleys and exhaust.
Well its been raining here for a while so no sandblasting has been done but I finished painting the engine and put the intake on to see what it looks like
I have a few spots to touch up, other than that the painting is done. Than I need to pull $700 from somewhere to order my L&L headers and motor mounts
I just ordered a new brake line bender with angles on it so i can start bending some brake lines on these rainy days
Sorry I haven't updated this im trying to post updates every week. Its been really busy month for me, im a senior in high school so im finishing up school and graduating in a week and my sister graduated college last weekend so i was out of town, then I went to see a Minnesota Twins game for my birthday. So not much has been done between school and work, but once school is over I should get alot done. I'm going to try and drop my transmission off at my buddies transmission shop tomorrow to get rebuilt, im thinking about getting heavy duty clutches installed so the C6 will hold up against the 466.
I'm considering buying a 2 inch body lift because body mounts are so expensive with hardware and i need new hard ware. But will a 2 inch body lift effect any of the transmission linkage,brake lines, ect? Also I wanted to hear some input on headers, I'm torn between L&L fender well exit or chassis exit?
Man I wish I had this money that you seem to have to spend on your truck. I'd love to have my tranny rebuilt and a few things done to the engine.
You even have this truck in high school, I didn't get mine till a year after, after years of trying to get one lol.
Personally I'd go with the fenderwell exit headers. I think it should help keep some of the heat out from under the hood from what I've read, and it just looks cool. I hope you're not goin with magnaflows like all of the magnaflow lovers on f150online. flowmasters sound amazing on these engines, and don't give you that stupid popping noise like a lot of straight throughs do that I've heard.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.