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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:11 PM
  #1  
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Going Bio

<hr style="color:#D1D1E1; background-color:#D1D1E1" size="1"> Hi every body
I have a 1997 F-250 7.3 power stroke and want too go bio should I
use a 14% methenol or 22%
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by neader
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #d1d1e1; COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1> Hi every body
I have a 1997 F-250 7.3 power stroke and want too go bio should I
use a 14% methenol or 22%
Before I give you my recommendation, I am curious as to where and how you came up with those two figures. Too many variables and options as to how much to use.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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Thank I got it from How to Make Biodiesel at Home High Yield Recipe for Biodiesel 14%
The Standard Recipe for Biodiesel 22%
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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I see. I suggest you stick with the standard recipe, starting out with 22%. Learn the ins and outs of making proper biodiesel first. Even with the standard recipe you could go as low as around 17%-18% as long as you have bone dry wvo and you glycerine pre-treat your oil. That is what I usually do since I do not recover my methanol. A good portion of it goes back into the wvo when I pre-treat. 14% is barely enough to push the reaction since it is just above what is consumed to make the reaction. I always suggest learning to make proper fuel before moving on to other methods.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Thank you I'm trying to get started but I work in the Miami Intl. airport and work some
crazy shift.Forgive me if I don't respond right away thank you for your help most appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by neader
<hr style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);" size="1"> Hi every body
I have a 1997 F-250 7.3 power stroke and want too go bio should I
use a 14% methenol or 22%
I've been successfully using that same high yield recipe in my 6.9 IDI, with 14% methanol by volume. Works well for my friend's Deuce and my Mercedes 240D as well.

A Powerstroke, though, is likely more sensitive to fuel quality, being a direct injection engine. I would use the standard recipe (20-22% methanol by volume). But there are tests you can do on your finished fuel to determine whether it's safe to run.

I deliberately bought engines that don't much care about fuel quality, so I don't worry myself too much about it, other than being sure to carefully wash and dry the bio before it goes in the tank.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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HI thank you for your advice I think that I'll stick to the 22% standard recipe. How long should I let my 25 gallon batch sit for before draining the glycerine ?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by neader
HI thank you for your advice I think that I'll stick to the 22% standard recipe. How long should I let my 25 gallon batch sit for before draining the glycerine ?
I use KOH and drain it off between 1-2 hours.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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fuel filter

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Hi Recently got 1997 F-250 7.3 and been making my Owen bio-diesel and have burned about forty gallons so for. Changed the fuel filter today and was surprised to find so mush Dirt rust even some water in the fuel filter bow.
Is this common or do I need to clean my fuel tanks soon
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by neader
Hi Recently got 1997 F-250 7.3 and been making my Owen bio-diesel and have burned about forty gallons so for. Changed the fuel filter today and was surprised to find so mush Dirt rust even some water in the fuel filter bow.
Is this common or do I need to clean my fuel tanks soon
Welcome to FTE and the bio forum!

Biodiesel is a great solvent and will clean all the crud from your fuel system. Just make sure you keep a spare fuel filter around for awhile and you'll be fine!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Thanks I will keep a couple filters handy
 
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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Also might have to eventually drop the tank and change the in-tank filter. Mine got so there was almost no fuel pressure. Should of posted pics of the crud in there after 900+ gallons...
 
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