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The engine runs well while I have it around 1600 rpms then when I let go of the throttle it just slowly dies...
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sounds to me like maybe you have valves to tight. When you had it rebuilt did you have heads milled? if so how much? Block decked also? Did machine shop verify the valve stem height after grinding seats and valves. 460 with non adjustable rockers sometimes need push rods changed to shorter ones if to much is changed in the above procedures. You are sure fireing order is correct right?
No, I didn't have the heads milled. The heads came off another donor motor. They checked out fine (no cracks) so I used those. I didn't grind the seats either. The firing order is correct. I've checked several times now. My dad says he thinks it's running too rich. I am going to try and adjust the bowls and needles soon and see if that helps the issue. There is quite a lot of smoke coming out when it's running. The engine didn't run long enough to generate any smoke though.
for sheets n giggles have you tried adjusting the distributor timing manually slightly at a time while its running rough to see if smooths out?
possibly balancer is bad and timing isnt what it reallly is with light on it.
Ecfool, I have done this. I have had someone assist me with this because i have to sit in the cab to keep my foot on the pedal. The balancer is new but not out of the question I guess. I had a bad brand new fuel pump that was bad so anything is possible. I'm heading out to the garage in a few so I'll let you know what happens.
another thing that helps when I have a PITA problem is walk away for awhile and have a coke come back and reevaluat from square 1.
1. verify firing order correct and acually timed off #1 cylinder
2. verify ALL vacuum ports connected and routed correctly I.E no vacuum leaks.
3. verify bowl fuel level is right at bottom of sight plug hole
4. check no vacuum leak at base of carb or intake gasket
5. if all above correct run compression test to verify no stuck valves or possible low compression due to incorrectly positioned timing chain
and most important if all else fails replace coke with tequila
@Switchfoot, no I don't have another carb, but I think that's the direction I'm heading. I've adjusted it so often I'm beginning to think I've royally screwed it up. I probably need to take it off and remove the bowls, needles etc. *sigh*
Just to update you guys and quit my bitchin'... After I adjusted the floats down and turned the needles in it started revving really high and then it died. When I restart it did the same and died right away. Hope at this point I don't have to do a complete tear down again... I still have yet to check the cam. Thought it may just still be the carb.
Turn the distributor without paying attention to your timing light, (plug the vacuum advance line) and see if you can get it running smoothly by hand. Go either way, the full travel of the distributor. *IF* you can get it to smooth out, take a timing light reading and post it here.
had something close to that happen over 20 years ago , got what was called a RV cam and installed and the thing would not run worth a hoot , come to find out that the cam was ground a lot more radical and a couple valves got slightly bent so the engine would not run right ! the engine was a 400 but that was a freaky thing that no one ever expected ! another thing that can happen is that the gear on the distributor could have sheared the pin and spun a little and that will throw every timing number off !
cj06, I didn't get an RV cam. The cam I got was a CompCams 34-225-4 with new springs and retainers. With all the testing there is more than enough clearance between the piston and valves. Here is a link to the cam sheet: 34-225-4 - High Energy
As for the carb, I was doing a completely newb move. I was adjusting the floats up instead of down. This is what was causing the flooding issue. D'oh!!!
I'm going to drain the bowls, remove the carb and adjust the floats...
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