I have some of the Ford factory shop manuals, it is from there the alldata and the like
originate.

BTW I think white/red stripe is either oil pressure sender or temperature sender (the other is
red/white stripe but I forget which is which).

 

verifyed on wiring diagram white with red but also says or black with red single wire connector by main diagnostic connector.

 

Hehehehehe, how cool is that.

I installed aftermarket gauges in my truck, that's the only reason why I remember those
colors - because it was particularly difficult to just look at one and know which is which cuz
the printing is pretty munged and it's hard to tell - is this white with red or red with white?

 

I'm subscribed to ALLData for my 92, and to tell you the truth, I am extremely underwhelmed with it. I'm going back to paper manuals until I find something better.

 

yeah tomorrow after work i will make a trip to the library and copy stuff from the shop manuals they have their. for my 93 f150 first thing i did when i bought it was go down to the library and copy diagrams because they really helped me out on other cars i have owned, compared to the haynes manual. yeah all data is nice i had it when i was in high school automotive class but i really havent seen the point in buying it because i got a couple cars/trucks.

 

I would just use the new connector you get, as wiring differences may be present in the connector you get. Just make sure the connector is identicle and you shouldn't have any problems. The connector has numbers on it, and match the wires you have now to the numbers and you should be fine.

The wires and terminals should be removable from the connector. Remove one wire and terminal at a time and transplant them into the new connector matching the numbers to your old one. You can get new terminals to repair the bad wiring too, so there will not be any splices at the connector.

If you do not get anything, not even a blip, then it's most likely the EEC Power Relay, faulty wiring or Human Error. If the EEC itself is bad, you still may be able to test it and use diagnostic proceedures to determine this.

This is a good idea, as the Ford wiring diagrams have a section where it shows a picture of the connectors, the connector numbers and the wire colors coresponding to each number printed on the connector.

 

now that EEC relay where would that be located so i can pull it off and check it just incase that is what went on the truck?

 

well i didnt have time to make it to the library today to get some wiring diagrams so i decided to look into the haynes manual more and found this that i had missed. i actually have been setting the timing without disconnecting the spout connector. and the spout connector is a actual connecor not that little square block

i know its kindof hard to see and it is the connector on top of the oil filter.

i did disconnect this and still nothing, but i have to try re droping the distributor bacause i did mark the dis. housing but not the rotor position, and when i read in the book it says the PIP acts like a crank position sensor and with this being way off it could be causing a no spark situation. also i have read that the ground goes right through the distributor housing so i will get a jumper wire and try and relocate this ground to see if it work. and with this ground being bad it could be why im going through coils like crazy. but the grounds all did look good so far, maybe i will replace that negative battery cable while im fixing it now.

now that i have read this stuff about the ignition system i am feeling confodent that this might get running again. im still going to get that EEC connector fixed because it says if the igntion goes into fail safe mode it will throw codes which is what i expected. im hoping this will fix the going through coils problem.


this is the only thing i hate about wiring is that it is very very time consuming, and some times you get lucky and sometimes you dont. ive just been really stressed out lately so it doesnt help the situation

 

well i got a connector from the junkyard and hooked it up. is thier only 4 wires that go to the EEC test connector?(well 5 with that one single wire on the side). but when i connected my scanner to it, said unable to connect to ecm, please check DataLinkCable. so could the computer be bad then? and also it seems like the batter is drained when i try to start it, and it is a brand new battery in their. and the radio doesnt come on any more when the key is on. and for that eec power relay, would the truck still turn over if the relay was bad? and also i did re drop the distributor in the right spot.








is this the EEC relay, it was on a wiring harness mounted to the computer bracket?

 

The truck would not start with a bad EEC relay. Could be the reason why you cannot do a computer diagnostic. The EEC Relay needs to be good to conduct a self diagnostic test.

The EEC relays are color coded. You need to match the color with the one on the truck now. The last picture does show a power relay however.

Sounds like you have other issues. These need to be fixed. You need a fresh charged battery. cranking the engine may have drained it dead, or you have other issues.

 

Look at:

Ford Fuel Injection
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing

See if their depictions of the connector help you, maybe see if you can get blinkenlight codes.

What year is this truck?

 

k i will try this tomorrow morning. it is an 86 bronco.


now i did find a junkyard about 20miles away that wants $25 for a computer which isnt bad. now will a computer from a f150 with everything the same work or not? if i cant get codes i will try replacing this.

i did test that eec relay and it was bad so i replaced it, still cant connect with my scan tool. i will try the volt meter way.

thats if i can get any codes now. i just pulled the battery out and took it home to charge it.

 

No idea about the computer, those are tied to the Calibration Code of the engine - California
or 49-state emissions, low or high-altitude, with or without vapor recovery, etc.

You might compare the numbers on the casings....

 

yeah when i called the junkyard they wanted a cerrtain number on it

 

well paid 20$ for a computer from the junkyard and tried it and still nothing. that narrows it down now. now i will look for one of those manuals and see what i can find. and the scanner wont read anything on the new computer and i cant get the voltmeter to scan the computer either