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It's worth checking the wiring connector that plugs into the coil. Also check the wires that run from the coil to the DS2 box, that whole harness. I had a loose wire at the coil once and it caused my truck to run horribly. It was where an old wire splice had broken loose over the years.
I swapped in another coil harness and it fixed the problem completely. (Swapping the harness is easy, it just unplugs; alternatively you could just repair your existing harness.)
FWIW I have an old Motorcraft DS2 module with at least 75% of the epoxy melted out, and it still works fine...LOL
Hey Kirby, I'm going to ask you a question about this in another post so I don't hijack this one.
well new pickup installed. still got no spark. i took the inition modual to oreilly auto and it passed. now im goingg to go trough wires and take a meter to test voltage.
i have gas for sure.
what is the little half moon resistor block on the wiring harness near the coil? i can try and get a picture
what about that noise capacitor? if thats what it is, its that little metal cylinder attached the coil. i start to hear clicking noises in my speakers when the coils started to go.
At this point, I'd get a schematic of the ignition harness and go through each circuit looking for faults.
Get your digital multi-meter, and do a point by point walk-through of your harness and it's attached devises. (dist, coil, module) You have a bad wire, bad ground, or failed device.
Don't throw any more parts at your problem. FIND the problem, then replace THAT part.
Anyone here have a diagnostic walk-through that they can post for the OP?
I have a wiper problem in my 92 that I've looked at all the "common and obvious" fail points. Problem hasn't jumped right out at me, so now I have to wait for a nice day with nothing else I need to do, and do a walk-through of my wiring. I can't afford to buy parts "hoping" I get lucky. I also don't learn anything that way.
Take your time, get your meter warmed up, and start at the beginning.
Ok do you have voltage at the coil? if not check your EEC relay shoud be located under dash by the ECU. If you have voltage dissconnect your SPOUT connector and see if you have spark then if you do then ECU related problem you will then need to pull codes from computer. Another area to check on a 4.9 in the wirering harness there is 2 wires ,white with blue tracer just above the oil presssure sender that are prone to corrosion and breaking. This is the wire which powers up the coil.
yeah im going to do all that tomorrow. now i dont think this has a spout connector because it is an earlier version of the electrical ignition.
the guy that had it before me had disconnected all the vaccum stuff so none of that besides the map sensor which could have went bad to you never know.
Being a TIF ssytem it will have a spout connector it is used to set the base timing by disabiling the ECU spark timing feature of computer. It should be located in the wiring harness close to distributor, it is usually a squarish plug wiht a small cap/block jumper plug that you take out to bypass computer controlled timing. Without jumper plugged in you are basicaly running on base timing all the time. The engine will generaly have lousy power and gas mileage will be in the toilet.
well i dont have that spout on mine. i was looking at the wiring harness and it showed a round type connector with one wire on one side and one wire on the other. and it said spout on the wiring diagram. i found in the haynes manual how to hand test the ICM and when i did it didnt pass(the PIP pwr terminal and the TFI terminal were letting too much current through so i think this is why im going through the coils) . so i took it and replaced the part anyways but still no spark. i took a look at the igntion switch and did a couple tests but i will look at it more.
now are their any sensors on the engine that tell it to give it spark? like a crank position sensor or camshaft position sensor. just do i can check and test them out.
some earlier units did use a connector for spout, unplug the connector and see if it has spark then if it does its in the ECU you thenneed to follow the flow chart for no start procedure
i did test the ignition switch and noticed in the start position the two terminals that didnt have any continuity between them were the Ignition bypass and the Start terminal. so i replaced it and nothing so far. i got it in storage right now so i got time to work on it. if i cant figure out the problem soon im thinking about taking it to the junkyard. i hate to do it but you cant keep everything, i know wiring is a pain in the a$$ to go through but sometimes you cant fix them.