going through coils, why???
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These may seem stupidly simple but are first things to check: make sure you have grounded frame, motor, firewall, with proper rated conductors to each. Since you have a new coil it helps to check the resistance to ground from both terminals for reference (detach coils). The coils you have are probably still good.
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Senior User
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now what whould you guys think about the ecm taking a crap on me?
would a ecm from a 86 f150 with the same stuff as my bronco work or not?
all the wiring looks good so far. i forgot to brign the camera with me but i will go back out and get some pictures today for sure.
would a ecm from a 86 f150 with the same stuff as my bronco work or not?
all the wiring looks good so far. i forgot to brign the camera with me but i will go back out and get some pictures today for sure.
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sry for small pictures but its what my phone put out
here is the dis. and the ICM, no sput connecor near it
here is the ground from the frame attached to the alternator bolt/bracket
here is the resistor that i think go to the coil, i tested this and it is still good
here is where the negative batter cable attaches to the frame then goes to the altornator bracket, it might need to be replaced but it ran good since i bought it
here is the dis. and the ICM, no sput connecor near it
here is the ground from the frame attached to the alternator bolt/bracket
here is the resistor that i think go to the coil, i tested this and it is still good
here is where the negative batter cable attaches to the frame then goes to the altornator bracket, it might need to be replaced but it ran good since i bought it
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From: So Calif
kinda hard to see in pics but gotta have one here is clue to find it.
its #5 terminal on module connector, yellow w/light green wire it will be either squarish connector or may just be a inline connector you will unplug. By dissconnecting spout you take computor out of the picture if it has good spark when unplugged ignition system is ok look at computor problem. pull codes
its #5 terminal on module connector, yellow w/light green wire it will be either squarish connector or may just be a inline connector you will unplug. By dissconnecting spout you take computor out of the picture if it has good spark when unplugged ignition system is ok look at computor problem. pull codes
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i will hhave to et a new ecm connector cause some wires broke on miine so i cant scan it. i did see a yellow single wire that had a round connector that a yellow wire came out of the other end that i unplugged and had nothing. but im not for sure if that is the spout. i know on my 93 f150 it is that square piece with a single wire
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Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - going through coils, why???
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i dont mean to **** u off. i have went trhought the electrical diagram in the back of the haynes manual and have run some tests on wires. the coils did test good. and from the actual ignition switch the wire that goes to the coil does have 12v but when i read the voltage at the coil i get maybe 2v so im going throuugh more stuff to figure out where i am loosing voltage
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i dont mean to **** u off. i have went trhought the electrical diagram in the back of the haynes manual and have run some tests on wires. the coils did test good. and from the actual ignition switch the wire that goes to the coil does have 12v but when i read the voltage at the coil i get maybe 2v so im going throuugh more stuff to figure out where i am loosing voltage
Sometimes you just HAVE to have the right tool. Nothing else will do as well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
You have to fix the wires first. That should be priority one right now.
The EEC going bad, or the EEC Power Relay can cause a no spark condition, but it's not as comon. A simple computer diagnostic of the EEC can help diagnose this. But first you need to fix the wires to do it.
The EEC going bad, or the EEC Power Relay can cause a no spark condition, but it's not as comon. A simple computer diagnostic of the EEC can help diagnose this. But first you need to fix the wires to do it.
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You have to fix the wires first. That should be priority one right now.
The EEC going bad, or the EEC Power Relay can cause a no spark condition, but it's not as comon. A simple computer diagnostic of the EEC can help diagnose this. But first you need to fix the wires to do it.
The EEC going bad, or the EEC Power Relay can cause a no spark condition, but it's not as comon. A simple computer diagnostic of the EEC can help diagnose this. But first you need to fix the wires to do it.
now i can basically take any connector out of any f150 up to 95? just aslong as i get the wires right on the bronco. now that single wire that goes to the diagnostic tool what color should it be because i got 2 of the same connectors right by it.
and when i do scan it if it doesnt give me anything could the computer be bad?
well i was thinking about going down to the library and get some wiring diagrams too, they are probably the same as the evtm. my friend did have a haynes manual that did only go up to 1990 which helped me out a lot because the newer one was confusing because of the variations of the years i could have.
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What Anafiel said.
I'm not sure of any wire colors or connectors, others can hopefully answer that.
In my experience, the Haynes manuals are OK for *general* electrical work but I don't know
how accurate they'll be for this as they combine several years together and sometimes
that's not good.
The EVTM is specifically a troubleshooting manual (I believe it even has text telling
you what to do and how to do it but I've never actually sen one myself) whereas the wiring
diagrams are just diagrams showing what's connected to what, leaving you to figure out
what is supposed to have power and when and how much of it.
Those manuals are pretty cheap for this vintage of truck, too.
I'm not sure of any wire colors or connectors, others can hopefully answer that.
In my experience, the Haynes manuals are OK for *general* electrical work but I don't know
how accurate they'll be for this as they combine several years together and sometimes
that's not good.
The EVTM is specifically a troubleshooting manual (I believe it even has text telling
you what to do and how to do it but I've never actually sen one myself) whereas the wiring
diagrams are just diagrams showing what's connected to what, leaving you to figure out
what is supposed to have power and when and how much of it.
Those manuals are pretty cheap for this vintage of truck, too.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: So Calif
a inexpensive way if you are going to keep truck for some time is to subscribe to either ALLData or Mitchell repair manual for your specific vehicle worth every penny you will spend on it. Haynes manuals really lack in specific service procedures. My self I have both On Demand 5 and Chilton and Mitchell manuals going back to about 1935.