Ride Height Question
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: Newberry Springs, CA
You're guess was pretty much dead on. The top block looks like a stock block (has that side part) and is 1 7/8". The middle block is 1 3/8" or 1 7/16", but was close enough.
So if I took the 2 out, put a stock F350 set in it should bring the *** end up exactly a half inch?! Are they readily available or should I just check through the salvage yards?
Also, are they attached somehow other than the U-bolts?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,069
Likes: 1
From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
blocks come up for sale on craigslist or e-bay...even seen them here on FTE. buy new u-bolts. get the right ones for your truck, thers a difference in cab and bed configuration. (wedged-not wedged) i forgot what truck set up you have. good luck.
also they just pinch in between the spring and diff.
also they just pinch in between the spring and diff.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
The leaf pack is held together by a center pin, basically a large threaded bolt with a plug on the bottom and a nut on the top. Don't mess around with the center pin because unless you clamp the springs together, you can loosen the pin and the whole deal kinda blows up in front of you. Factory blocks have a cast peg on the bottom to fit into the corresponding hole in the spring perch (the pad welded to your axle that the block sits on), and a hole on top to accept the plug from the spring pack. The u-bolts are what hold everything together, but there's really no way to screw up installing blocks, since you just line up all the holes and pack it together. With your CC/SB, IIRC you need standard flat 4" blocks.
Swapping the blocks is a cake-walk. Put jack stands under the frame with the wheels off the ground and let the rear suspension hanging. Loosen the u-bolts and set the tires on the ground , swap blocks, use a regular small floor jack to get the axle-blocks-spring pack pushed all up close enough together to install the new u-bolts, then tighten them up.
Here's a one piece 4" block (this a welded after-market block, not a cast factory one)
If you look at the blocks in this pic you can see the hole drilled through the top plate of the blocks
Swapping the blocks is a cake-walk. Put jack stands under the frame with the wheels off the ground and let the rear suspension hanging. Loosen the u-bolts and set the tires on the ground , swap blocks, use a regular small floor jack to get the axle-blocks-spring pack pushed all up close enough together to install the new u-bolts, then tighten them up.
Here's a one piece 4" block (this a welded after-market block, not a cast factory one)
If you look at the blocks in this pic you can see the hole drilled through the top plate of the blocks
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,069
Likes: 1
From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: Newberry Springs, CA
Damn, this stuff is expensive. Gonna cost nearly $200 bucks for the parts.
Someone want to double check my parts list and make sure it's correct?
Blocks: F81Z5598 DA Qty: 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 Qty: 4
Nuts: N620485S441 Qty: 8
Someone want to double check my parts list and make sure it's correct?
Blocks: F81Z5598 DA Qty: 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 Qty: 4
Nuts: N620485S441 Qty: 8
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,069
Likes: 1
From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
bart, check the links i posted. its aftermarket stuff...but you can get them in different sizes than stock. i've see used OEM stuff for about $50-$75 for the blocks. the ubolts i would buy new.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: Newberry Springs, CA
Spin,
So if I get those 4" blocks in that link you posted, I ditch the stock block stack and replace it with the new ones, correct? (As opposed to finding a shorter block and putting it in between the stock block and the perch)
Sorry for the dumb questions, I just want to make sure I get it right.
So if I get those 4" blocks in that link you posted, I ditch the stock block stack and replace it with the new ones, correct? (As opposed to finding a shorter block and putting it in between the stock block and the perch)
Sorry for the dumb questions, I just want to make sure I get it right.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,400
Likes: 319
From: Whittier, CA
I think you are going to be very disappointed if you spend any money to gain only 1/2". It might seem important at the moment, but when you stand back and look at the finished job, you are going to wonder why you bothered.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: Newberry Springs, CA
bp, I could agree more with you, and if it was just for "looks" I wouldn't even bother. You have to look at it pretty close to even see it.
The only reason I'm considering this is for how much the rear end squats when i hook up my toy hauler. The trailer ride height has been corrected as much as possible by the hitch. The normal squat with the trailer hooked up should be 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, it's currently about an 1 3/8 inches as the rear end is already about an 1/2 lower.
My other alternative was the firestone air bags, but they're more expensive the lifting the rear end 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
The only reason I'm considering this is for how much the rear end squats when i hook up my toy hauler. The trailer ride height has been corrected as much as possible by the hitch. The normal squat with the trailer hooked up should be 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, it's currently about an 1 3/8 inches as the rear end is already about an 1/2 lower.
My other alternative was the firestone air bags, but they're more expensive the lifting the rear end 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,400
Likes: 319
From: Whittier, CA
Bags sure would be nice. You could adjust the level just the way you want it, either empty or loaded.
I don't know where you stand with fabrication skills, but if I needed just a half inch, I would pull that middle block and make one a half inch thicker. Stacking blocks is frowned on, but stacking one a half inch thicker won't be any worse than what you have now. But then, I would use the same U-bolts too, for such a slight change, and I know I will get flamed for that.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: Newberry Springs, CA
Nah, you're not confused, I probably didn't get my idea across properly.
I know the rear end is supposed to sag with the trailer hooked up, I guess my concern was how much, and after measuring everything found it was more than it was supposed to.
My fab skills are OK, but I done have the gear to be able to do it. I thought for now, I would just get rid of all the blocks (since they're already stacked) and replace it with one that's the right size. Thought that might be a better way to go about it.
I know the rear end is supposed to sag with the trailer hooked up, I guess my concern was how much, and after measuring everything found it was more than it was supposed to.
My fab skills are OK, but I done have the gear to be able to do it. I thought for now, I would just get rid of all the blocks (since they're already stacked) and replace it with one that's the right size. Thought that might be a better way to go about it.
