Flathead, rebuild or trash it?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Flathead, rebuild or trash it?
I got a truck a year ago, I was excited because I thought the stuck 239 might be freed up with trans fluid. It had run about three years ago. I ended up pulling the heads and the idiot must have had it outside for a short period, water got in the carb and into two cylinders. It looked fairly rusty but I was able to clean it up. For a couple of weeks I tried soaking it and tapping on the pistons but no luck. I guess one major problem would be with ice cracking the cylinder.
Here's the question. Has anyone knocked out the pistons and bored one of these out?
Here's the question. Has anyone knocked out the pistons and bored one of these out?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 1
From: peyton, colorado
There was a thread awhile ago on the best thing for breaking loose rusted parts. It was an odd mixture of something like brake fluid and tranny fluid, or acetone and tranny fluid, some thing like that. Hopefully some one can chime in with the correct mixture. Any way, try that in the cylinders, let it soak, and if it's still in the truck, put it in gear and rock it. I'd try to save the flatty if possible. If my truck had one when I got I'd still have it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 1
From: peyton, colorado
Just searched "penetrating oil" on the HAMB. There's a thread on freeing a stuck flathead, and one titled "the best penetrating oil". ATF and acetone, mixed 50/50 is what they were talking about.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
The engine is in the truck. Thanks, I will try 50/50 acetone and trans fluid. I tried strait trans fluid, then PB blaster and was rocking the truck. I also pulled the heads and tried tapping the pistons with a 2 by 3, but had no luck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
If valves are stuck, it will lock it up just as tight. I'd suggest either removing the valve assemblies, or removing the cam gear. Better yet, pull the engine.
BTW, the debate on the 50-50 ATF/acetone mix on Ford Barn is raging...
BTW, the debate on the 50-50 ATF/acetone mix on Ford Barn is raging...
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 2
From: springfield il
i filled mine with plain old deisel fuel . emptied the crank case and filled it , and the cylinders i could with it and worked it for a while and it eventually free'd up . got a bent valve in the process though . the small flat six i sold to old bob here , that came out of a 48 had been inside , but froze up anyway . all i did to it was pull the plugs fill them with old oil , and the crank case and worked it and it broke loose , and it has been in his dads 50 or 49 f-6 for quite some time chattering away happily ................. now i did have this 37 21 stud sitting her for awhile that wasn't coming loose for nothing . pistons had to be drilled and broken ........... OUCH !!!!! that hurts just thinking about it !!!!!!!!!!
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
How did you knock the pistons out? For what its worth I have the engine listed on craigs list, north jersey. It seems funny, someone may be interested in it and I think, Should I keep it and try to .revive it? I just about finished a 226-6 cyl and its on the engine stand but I want an
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 2
From: springfield il
i drilled a lot of holes in the pistons then took a chisel and a BFH and started carefully braking them out too hopefully save from doing any damage to the cylinder walls . they all came out and as unbelievable as it may seem the fella who has it now was able too punch it out .040 and it's useable ...............
New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Louisville,ky
My F7 was stuck, but I was able to free it by using Marvel Mystery Oil and ATF mix. I also used Kroil Oil. I turned the engine backwards and forewards to also free it up. When It rotated a complete turn, I used the starter also to turn and free it up some more. The valves were stuck open, so I used a cotter pin puller to push them back down. I did all of this without taking the engine apart. Now I have to work on the water pumps, they are froze
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Keep in mind with any stuck engine that whatever was sticking it will still be in the engine oil (varnish, rust, ??) and there isn't a full-flow filter to remove it. It's great to get them unstuck, but personally I wouldn't start using the engine without a teardown after a "proof of life" run.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
The more I think about it the more I want to tear it down and rebuild it. Either that or make a coffee table out of it. I've gotten a ton of calls from people who want to buy it. I went out and picked up some acetone today and of course now I'm going to try again to get it free. I guess once you start drilling pistons that means disassembling the lower end. Is boring it 040 too much for that engine? Would you magnaflux it before boring it? I imagine the aluminum pistons get stuck pretty good. I do plumbing work and any aluminum thats oxidized is a PITA.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,174
Likes: 4,781
From: Burbank, WA
My understanding is that flatheads were routinely punched to .080" or more, as they were designed to be rebuilt several times throughout their lifetime. They were usually ready for a redo after about 60-80,000 miles. It's always a good idea to have them checked for cracks or other damage before making a major investment in them. But then again, that's pretty good advice for doing work on any engine, not just flatheads.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AndreVR
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
4
Aug 13, 2015 08:40 PM
jbancroft
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Dec 28, 2014 02:57 PM
