Drivers window
Drivers window
Hi everyone, I don't know if you can help but I have a problem with the operation of the drivers electric window, I have a navigator 2003. The motor is not working, I have replaced the motor and it is the same.
All I get if you listen carefully to the motor twice is a slight buzz when you flick the switch up or down. The plug wiring is a 8 connector switch, 1 is battery power, 1 is ignition power, 2 negatives and the rest come from the switch. If I flick the switch up or down I am getting power to the plug on 2 different wires, which I presume is ok.
This only happens to the drivers window all the rest work. I have found the large fuse in the fuse box and that is ok, I just don't know what to check next.
Sorry this is a bit long but I was trying to put in as much as possible
Thanks in advance.
All I get if you listen carefully to the motor twice is a slight buzz when you flick the switch up or down. The plug wiring is a 8 connector switch, 1 is battery power, 1 is ignition power, 2 negatives and the rest come from the switch. If I flick the switch up or down I am getting power to the plug on 2 different wires, which I presume is ok.
This only happens to the drivers window all the rest work. I have found the large fuse in the fuse box and that is ok, I just don't know what to check next.
Sorry this is a bit long but I was trying to put in as much as possible
Thanks in advance.
take a look at the window regulator. On my 03 Expe I've had to replace them in both front doors. Motor has yet to fail. The motor drives a drum (plastic) that raises/lowers the window via a steel cable. Plastic + Steel, who do you think will win?
Are you sure that's not the sound of the motor running, just not moving the window?
r0lex, If I understand you correctly you hear the "buzz" with the motor in and out of the door. Is the motor turning? I don't recall the details of the motor, is there a gear train as an integral part of the motor (they get replaced with the motor)?
If the motor "buzzes" but doesn't turn, hook it up to a 12V directly.
Is the window hung up and can't move?
Keep at it! I can solve almost anything with nothing more than persistance (that's all I got).
If the motor "buzzes" but doesn't turn, hook it up to a 12V directly.
Is the window hung up and can't move?
Keep at it! I can solve almost anything with nothing more than persistance (that's all I got).
Sorry I must explain my self better.
Motor disconnected from the window mechanism, and when I press the switch for up or down I just get a little buz, there is no movement in the motor drive at all.
The plug that connects to the motor is an 8 wire system. Not 2 like the rest, I am led to believe that this is because of the auto up and down.
The weird thing is that when I use a multimeter at the plug wiring all the wires seem ok. But it still doesn't move.
I have put 3 different motors on this and I am sure they all can't be faulty.
Motor disconnected from the window mechanism, and when I press the switch for up or down I just get a little buz, there is no movement in the motor drive at all.
The plug that connects to the motor is an 8 wire system. Not 2 like the rest, I am led to believe that this is because of the auto up and down.
The weird thing is that when I use a multimeter at the plug wiring all the wires seem ok. But it still doesn't move.
I have put 3 different motors on this and I am sure they all can't be faulty.
Someone may find this helpful, it is the wiring for a window motor driver side on a Lincoln navigator 2003.
Pin 1 orange/white ... Not connected
Pin 2 pink ... Accessory / ignition live 12v
Pin 3 white/black.... positive up from switch 12v
Pin 4 brown/blue .... positive down from switch 12v
Pin 5 black/light blue ... Ground
Pin 6 green/pink shows 12 volts that drops when you move switch up or down
Pin 7 dark green ... Battery live 12v
Pin 8 black ... Ground
We have one dealer in the United Kingdom that is 300 miles from me and after speaking to him on the phone, he tells me that this is all correct and should work.
Pin 1 orange/white ... Not connected
Pin 2 pink ... Accessory / ignition live 12v
Pin 3 white/black.... positive up from switch 12v
Pin 4 brown/blue .... positive down from switch 12v
Pin 5 black/light blue ... Ground
Pin 6 green/pink shows 12 volts that drops when you move switch up or down
Pin 7 dark green ... Battery live 12v
Pin 8 black ... Ground
We have one dealer in the United Kingdom that is 300 miles from me and after speaking to him on the phone, he tells me that this is all correct and should work.
Trending Topics
have you tried 12V directly to the motor? Possibly corrosion in the switch. A multi-meter could show 12V but there could be insufficient current due to resistance in the switch. Seem to recall a post on disassembly and cleaning of the switches.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ow-switch.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ow-switch.html
Wow what a fiddly job that is, stripped it all down cleaned contact, although they didn't look burned at all. No change.
Put a positive supply from the battery to the window down wire, and then tried window up. No change.
Does any one know if this window winder talks to the ecu.
Put a positive supply from the battery to the window down wire, and then tried window up. No change.
Does any one know if this window winder talks to the ecu.
I'm not sure if it was 2002 or 2003 that they stopped using a 'one touch down' relay for the driver's window. If you have one, it will be relay #4 in the fuse box. Perhaps that relay is no good.
Thanks for the relay information, I found that on this model it was relay 2, and guess what .... The relay is ok ...
I am coming to the conclusion that although it sounds impossible, the motor I have is duff, but that means that I have 3 duff motors, they are supposed to be re-engineered ones.
I am hoping to get my hands on a proper wiring diagram for the 8 wire plug to see if it is possible to test the motor in my garage and not on the car. So if anyone out there has got it I would love a copy please
I am coming to the conclusion that although it sounds impossible, the motor I have is duff, but that means that I have 3 duff motors, they are supposed to be re-engineered ones.
I am hoping to get my hands on a proper wiring diagram for the 8 wire plug to see if it is possible to test the motor in my garage and not on the car. So if anyone out there has got it I would love a copy please
All you have to do to test the motor is apply 12 volts to it's 2-wire connector. One way and the window goes up, reverse the leads and the motor goes down.







