Coolant system filtering
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
But since you asked:
Wix Coolant Filters: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
TADA!
EDIT: Here is the coolant filter install write up that you referenced in your initial post, mistakenID: http://www.dieselwarden.net/ford/coolfilter1.html
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
From: West Valley Utah
I don't believe I was replying to you seeing as I didn't mention you or quote you anywhere in my previous post...I realize that the 4019 is the filter base and I was linking to show eatont9999 where he could get the filter base cheaper than the NAPA store price.
But since you asked:
Wix Coolant Filters: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
TADA!
EDIT: Here is the coolant filter install write up that you referenced in your initial post, mistakenID: Coolant Filter Retrofit
But since you asked:
Wix Coolant Filters: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
TADA!
EDIT: Here is the coolant filter install write up that you referenced in your initial post, mistakenID: Coolant Filter Retrofit
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
Napa wants $53 for the 4019 and O'Reilly want's $23 for the HPK2. Can I use an oil filter for coolant or will it degrade or disintegrate? I like the cheap filters, I don't mind adding SCAs and I don't want to overcharge. I think the HPK2 filter will work better in my hose routing; the only concern I have is the 3/4" vs 11/16" stud. Any drawbacks? I want to try and do this project this weekend since I do not have any parts for the injection system yet.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
I took a look at this article and I got a better idea of how these systems are setup.
Coolant Filter Retrofit
I was going to from the block -> filter input -> split to heater core and transmission heater. That is why I was concerned about the 3/8" stud hole. I guess if I configure it in a bypass like this guy has, the 3/8" stud hole won't be such a problem. I just hope enough coolant gets through the filter.
I'll have to order the head online since no one around here has one. I did put a filter on my overflow hose, so I shouldn't have to worry about getting any of the sediment from the bottle into the system.
I'll update when I get further into the install.
Coolant Filter Retrofit
I was going to from the block -> filter input -> split to heater core and transmission heater. That is why I was concerned about the 3/8" stud hole. I guess if I configure it in a bypass like this guy has, the 3/8" stud hole won't be such a problem. I just hope enough coolant gets through the filter.
I'll have to order the head online since no one around here has one. I did put a filter on my overflow hose, so I shouldn't have to worry about getting any of the sediment from the bottle into the system.
I'll update when I get further into the install.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,151
Likes: 704
From: Mi'kma'ki
yeah,see that's why im just plumbing it directly into a heater core line.all that crap is way too much mess for my taste.
i see why he did all that mess now.look at his diagram.he thinks the main water passage is the heater core hose.
that's not how it works.the engine would NEVER keep cool enough if that small hose going to the cabs heater core was the main line through the water pump.
the heater core hoses is nothing at all other than a bypass loop to provide heat in the cab by flowing through the heater core(mini radiator if you will.)
i dunno,but id really think the reason for lack of heat in the cab wouldn't be due to restriction of this filter,but a plugged up filter.
anyway,the heater core line IS a bypass loop already.that stuff is just bypassing a bypass loop lol.
change the filter if you have a lack of heat in the cab,know what i mean?
ok still so one might argue having the valves would still be good on each side.well ok,i suppose.but you only have to drain a gallon or so of coolant to drop the level up there.it's not THAT much of a hassle to change a filter,certainly doesn't warrant the expense of the valves to me.but one on each side just directly into a heater line wouldn't look half as bad as what he has going on there i guess.
but ask yourself,how often and when do you plan on changing filters anyway? likely not very often,and 9 times out of 10,it's gunna be when you drain the system to flush it anyway,rendering the valves useless lol.
i see why he did all that mess now.look at his diagram.he thinks the main water passage is the heater core hose.
that's not how it works.the engine would NEVER keep cool enough if that small hose going to the cabs heater core was the main line through the water pump.
the heater core hoses is nothing at all other than a bypass loop to provide heat in the cab by flowing through the heater core(mini radiator if you will.)
i dunno,but id really think the reason for lack of heat in the cab wouldn't be due to restriction of this filter,but a plugged up filter.
anyway,the heater core line IS a bypass loop already.that stuff is just bypassing a bypass loop lol.
change the filter if you have a lack of heat in the cab,know what i mean?
ok still so one might argue having the valves would still be good on each side.well ok,i suppose.but you only have to drain a gallon or so of coolant to drop the level up there.it's not THAT much of a hassle to change a filter,certainly doesn't warrant the expense of the valves to me.but one on each side just directly into a heater line wouldn't look half as bad as what he has going on there i guess.
but ask yourself,how often and when do you plan on changing filters anyway? likely not very often,and 9 times out of 10,it's gunna be when you drain the system to flush it anyway,rendering the valves useless lol.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Well, regardless of any above mentioned systems, I think I am going to engineer my own setup. I found a 4-way filter head and I think I will be using that for my setup. I will post a diagram of my build soon. I do plan for an effective bypass of the filter, for emergency purposes, but I also think there should be full flow through the filter to aid in catching contaminants.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
yeah,see that's why im just plumbing it directly into a heater core line.all that crap is way too much mess for my taste.
i see why he did all that mess now.look at his diagram.he thinks the main water passage is the heater core hose.
that's not how it works.the engine would NEVER keep cool enough if that small hose going to the cabs heater core was the main line through the water pump.
the heater core hoses is nothing at all other than a bypass loop to provide heat in the cab by flowing through the heater core(mini radiator if you will.)
i dunno,but id really think the reason for lack of heat in the cab wouldn't be due to restriction of this filter,but a plugged up filter.
anyway,the heater core line IS a bypass loop already.that stuff is just bypassing a bypass loop lol.
change the filter if you have a lack of heat in the cab,know what i mean?
ok still so one might argue having the valves would still be good on each side.well ok,i suppose.but you only have to drain a gallon or so of coolant to drop the level up there.it's not THAT much of a hassle to change a filter,certainly doesn't warrant the expense of the valves to me.but one on each side just directly into a heater line wouldn't look half as bad as what he has going on there i guess.
but ask yourself,how often and when do you plan on changing filters anyway? likely not very often,and 9 times out of 10,it's gunna be when you drain the system to flush it anyway,rendering the valves useless lol.
i see why he did all that mess now.look at his diagram.he thinks the main water passage is the heater core hose.
that's not how it works.the engine would NEVER keep cool enough if that small hose going to the cabs heater core was the main line through the water pump.
the heater core hoses is nothing at all other than a bypass loop to provide heat in the cab by flowing through the heater core(mini radiator if you will.)
i dunno,but id really think the reason for lack of heat in the cab wouldn't be due to restriction of this filter,but a plugged up filter.
anyway,the heater core line IS a bypass loop already.that stuff is just bypassing a bypass loop lol.
change the filter if you have a lack of heat in the cab,know what i mean?
ok still so one might argue having the valves would still be good on each side.well ok,i suppose.but you only have to drain a gallon or so of coolant to drop the level up there.it's not THAT much of a hassle to change a filter,certainly doesn't warrant the expense of the valves to me.but one on each side just directly into a heater line wouldn't look half as bad as what he has going on there i guess.
but ask yourself,how often and when do you plan on changing filters anyway? likely not very often,and 9 times out of 10,it's gunna be when you drain the system to flush it anyway,rendering the valves useless lol.
Besides that, I thought I read somewhere that the Napa filter base was a bypass type anyway? Oh well, my plan was to keep the plumbing simple. Something like this (obviously without the degas bottle/temp sender loop and through the heater hoses instead):
Welcome to guzzle's Coolant Bypass Filter Mod Web Page
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Well, here is what I have:
I think I need to change out the hose fitting going to the transmission heater. I thought the hose was the same size as the others but upon further inspection, it is smaller. Does anyone know what size hose and fitting I need?
I think I need to change out the hose fitting going to the transmission heater. I thought the hose was the same size as the others but upon further inspection, it is smaller. Does anyone know what size hose and fitting I need?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Yeah, it's the coolant filter from hell. Now I just need to find someone to make me a bracket to mount it on. I was thinking about mounting it on the passenger side fender wall. That's the only place with enough room.
The great part about this setup is that I can use the same filter on mt fuel head. They both have the same 1-14 thread and both are fuel filters. I would lose the water separator function but it would get me out of a pinch.
The great part about this setup is that I can use the same filter on mt fuel head. They both have the same 1-14 thread and both are fuel filters. I would lose the water separator function but it would get me out of a pinch.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 423
Likes: 5
If you mounted it to the outside of the fender then you could switch all of those valves without opening the hood. Just use a hole saw and some rubber grommets to run the heater hose through the fender so it don't get torn or ripped.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Uhhh, no. I don't think that would be the best idea. What happens if someone side swipes me? I would lose my coolant system! Not to mention how funny it would look. I will only need to turn those valves if I am changing a filer, draining the system, or depressurizing the system.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 423
Likes: 5
Uhhh, no. I don't think that would be the best idea. What happens if someone side swipes me? I would lose my coolant system! Not to mention how funny it would look. I will only need to turn those valves if I am changing a filer, draining the system, or depressurizing the system.
