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Oil change advice

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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #1  
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Oil change advice

Guy at advanced auto parts suggested oil with a high zinc content...
My motor's got 150k miles... its a 302.

What motor oil would you guys put in it?
Also the tranny fluid looks like it hasnt been changed ever, also it looks like somebody just threw 5-6 extra quartz in there. We're gonna drain both. Whats the best oil to change to???

Hope this made sense...
If you need clarification just ask.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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Dont use a fram filter!!!!!!!!!!! Otherwise carry on!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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For oil, just use Motorcraft oil and filter. For transmission, i went with Castrol Mercon for my C6. I honestly don't know about the transmission fluid. My tranny dipstick says to use mercon, so maybe look at the dipstick towards the very bottom? see if it tells ya
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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I have had good luck with o'reilly's house brand 10w30 oil and their house brand mercon V tranny fluid. I run it in my 95 and my 89. The 99 gets valvoline.
Either wix or motorcraft filters, have had great luck with both. DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS, THEY ARE JUNK!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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Fram = Orange Can of Death!

the guy can sell you high zinc content($4.79 qt.) Valvoline Racing is 1800 ppm. but it's not needed. I run Mystik 15w-50 syn blend in my 302. ZDDP and Phosphorus are around 1100 ppm. Adequate enough. 2 gallon jug is $26 on sale is $21.

Tranny wise, either Mercon or Mercon V. Oreilly's is a bit high on regular Mercon and even higher on their Mercon V. I went to Wally-World. $9.98 for 4 quart jug of reg. mercon and $3.78 qt. for Mercon V. oreilly was $12.98 for Mercon jug and $4+ for Mercon V qts. I went to Wally world since the guy @ oreilly wouldn't give it to me @ cost.

Depending on your price factor, it's all on how much you want to spend and where to spend.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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Buy a can of seafoam.....Unhook the brake booster line, add to it, etc.....Read the can...That'll clean the upper end good....Add the specified amount to the crankcase (Oil) and THEN change the oil....That should help get the crud outta there...

I personally use 5w30 in the winter, and 10w30 in the summer as per my truck manual says....

I use Castrol GTX, and I love it....Never a issue...And I *USED* to use Fram filters...Now I swapped to Motorcraft filters....Just a preference....

-Wes
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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i always use pennsoil 10 40 and motorcraft filter only you might consider synthetic fluid for the trans but if its never been changed you might have to replace it and yes ive seen it. wish you the best
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l
Buy a can of seafoam.....Unhook the brake booster line, add to it, etc.....Read the can...That'll clean the upper end good....Add the specified amount to the crankcase (Oil) and THEN change the oil....That should help get the crud outta there...

I personally use 5w30 in the winter, and 10w30 in the summer as per my truck manual says....

I use Castrol GTX, and I love it....Never a issue...And I *USED* to use Fram filters...Now I swapped to Motorcraft filters....Just a preference....

-Wes
Check for the latest TSB on which motor oil to use in Fords. I believe the latest one removes all doubt by stating that "FordMotorCo" recommends the use of 5W30 Motorcraft Oil in all their Ford products year round. Check Recalls/TSBs at top of this page.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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I'ts funny, here in Venezuela the service manual recomends 15w40, which actually is a light oil around these parts. When the engines start showing signs of wear, we switch to 20w50. I did my last change using Diesel engine oil (15w40), a little experiment to see how the engine behaves.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic 10w-30. It cost $ but has done me well in many previous vehicles. Now I have to go get a new oil filter to replace my Fram.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:04 PM
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Heavier oil is always better for a worn and tired engine. Just takes a bit for the oil pressure to build up if its a cold day.

I use mobil clean 5000 (now mobil super 5000) in everything, no issues ever. Funny enough I worked for a guy who had a fleet of service trucks and the hardly ever got oil changes, were talking 1 change in 20k or so. Never had an issue and most of them were bought used with 100k and are still ticking away with 250k or more.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterSr
Check for the latest TSB on which motor oil to use in Fords. I believe the latest one removes all doubt by stating that "FordMotorCo" recommends the use of 5W30 Motorcraft Oil in all their Ford products year round. Check Recalls/TSBs at top of this page.
Not tryin' to be a ********, an call you on it, but WHY would the service manual that came in the darned truck tell me to change the oil weight with the seasons, and then FoMoCo bring out something else that totally contradicts it? It makes sense, thinner oil in the winter for easier starts, thicker oil in the summer for less heat/friction wear and tear....

I'll simply stay with my routine....Never had an issue yet with it...

-Wes
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 12:18 AM
  #13  
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I think oil weight should be decided by what you use the truck for. Just normal driving around 5w30 or 10w30 is fine. And just about any type of oil will work in these trucks. These engines dont care as much as the newer "high tolerance" engines do. The key is to never let it run too low on oil and keep it changed somewhat regualrly.


Originally Posted by Encho
I'ts funny, here in Venezuela the service manual recomends 15w40, which actually is a light oil around these parts. When the engines start showing signs of wear, we switch to 20w50. I did my last change using Diesel engine oil (15w40), a little experiment to see how the engine behaves.
I run 15w40 in my 4.9L. Here in the 110* heat of texas in traffic with heavy loads and no oil cooler. I need the heat and shear tolerance that comes with a heavier oil. In the winter i still run the 15w40, but i have to start the truck a little early and let it warm up a little before i get underway.

So far there have been no adverse affects of running 15w40. I have a mechanical gauge, and for the first few minutes after start-up the gauge reads right under 60 psi(which is the relief valve pressure) but once its warmed up it drops to the mid 40's during normal driving.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:22 AM
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Yes fordman, it's temperature-related. My Bronco didn't have an oil cooler either (none of them, it's an unusual part here, even though the temperatures are usually high).
 
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