Pulling Fender liners
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
i was initially pressurising post CCV but the air noise escaping the CCV was preventing me from hearing the other air noise so i rigged up my checker to test pre CCV. I assumed as long as i dodnt go over 20 psi it would be fine.
checking this way would not allow me to see/hear leaks from the mainfolds or up-pipes?
checking this way would not allow me to see/hear leaks from the mainfolds or up-pipes?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
Here is a link to an interesting thread that may apply in your case.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...eak-fixed.html
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 1
From: Opelika, AL
The only place you can truly check for intake boost leaks is POST CCV, right on the intake tube that goes directly to the turbo. If you are testing post ccv there should be no air escaping via the ccv. As Greg said PRE CCV will have you putting compressed air into the crankcase and will do you no good as far as checking for an intake boost leak.
When i had the the boost checker attached directly to the intake side of the turbo (thats what i'm calling post ccv) there was air coming out of the ccv. if it's not supposed to do that then what could be the cause?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
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Likes: 1
From: Opelika, AL
Pressurizing the intake side will stop at the pistons so your exhaust side won't be pressurized. Most people check the exhaust side visually, which I assumed you were going to do. Any leak on the exhaust side will leave black soot residue around the leaking area. You might need a probing mirror to see the gap where each exhaust port enters the exhaust manifold.
Here is a link to an interesting thread that may apply in your case.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...eak-fixed.html
Here is a link to an interesting thread that may apply in your case.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...eak-fixed.html
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 1
From: Opelika, AL
well i've been piddiling with the truck today waiting on parts and think (hope) i found the source of the exhaust leak sound.
the bottom bolt where the passenge side up pipe connects to the manifold was a little loose. i couldnt see any soot but the bolt was loose enough i am hoping that it was the cause of the problem.
when i get my parts in i will put hr back together and test it out. fingers crossed.
While i am down i figured i'd goahead and pull the valve covers and retourque the injector and rocker bolts and all seemed good....i also ohmed out the glow uvch harness and all GP's were around 0.7 and all injectors were around 3.5
thats all for now.
the bottom bolt where the passenge side up pipe connects to the manifold was a little loose. i couldnt see any soot but the bolt was loose enough i am hoping that it was the cause of the problem.
when i get my parts in i will put hr back together and test it out. fingers crossed.
While i am down i figured i'd goahead and pull the valve covers and retourque the injector and rocker bolts and all seemed good....i also ohmed out the glow uvch harness and all GP's were around 0.7 and all injectors were around 3.5
thats all for now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
How do you attach your leak detector? Got a pic?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
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Likes: 1
From: Opelika, AL
I have a pic of it in my gallery but not of it attached....I'll try to get one of it hooked up tomorrow....but basically its just a rubber coupling that's hose clamped directly to the compressor side of the turbo
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Opelika, AL
i just looked at my album and there is a pic of it attached...
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bama29fan's Album: Boost Leak Detector
Tracking info says my part is out for delivery so i may have her put back together this afternoon
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bama29fan's Album: Boost Leak Detector
Tracking info says my part is out for delivery so i may have her put back together this afternoon
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
That is exactly how it should be attached.
Still can't figure out how the air would escape back through the VC unless it is getting past a valve seal on an open intake valve. Bump the engine over and see if the air still gets to the VC.
Still can't figure out how the air would escape back through the VC unless it is getting past a valve seal on an open intake valve. Bump the engine over and see if the air still gets to the VC.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Robin,
I don't think that it would make a difference if the valve were open or not.
A leaky intake valve guide seal, regardless of valve position, would allow air to get into the area under the valve cover, which is part of the general term "crankcase".
Maybe I'm not following something correctly here.....
Pop
I don't think that it would make a difference if the valve were open or not.
A leaky intake valve guide seal, regardless of valve position, would allow air to get into the area under the valve cover, which is part of the general term "crankcase".
Maybe I'm not following something correctly here.....
Pop
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Robin,
I don't think that it would make a difference if the valve were open or not.
A leaky intake valve guide seal, regardless of valve position, would allow air to get into the area under the valve cover, which is part of the general term "crankcase".
Maybe I'm not following something correctly here.....
Pop
I don't think that it would make a difference if the valve were open or not.
A leaky intake valve guide seal, regardless of valve position, would allow air to get into the area under the valve cover, which is part of the general term "crankcase".
Maybe I'm not following something correctly here.....
Pop
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
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Likes: 1
From: Opelika, AL
I got her all put back together on Saturday and she sounds much better now. so i am satisfied with what i did.
as for the fender liner...even tho it was kind of a pain i think i would pull it agian to get the passenger side valve cover off. for those considering this just make sure you look at it's orientation before you pull it so you'll save some headaches when putting it back in.
That back bolt on the driver side was a pain to get back started (blindly) the passenger side may have been the same way if i had not pulled the liner?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
Well that stinks.....what should i be expecting for repairs, noises, other damage from driving with leaking valver seals? I dont have the money or time for valve work any time soon.
I got her all put back together on Saturday and she sounds much better now. so i am satisfied with what i did.
as for the fender liner...even tho it was kind of a pain i think i would pull it agian to get the passenger side valve cover off. for those considering this just make sure you look at it's orientation before you pull it so you'll save some headaches when putting it back in.
That back bolt on the driver side was a pain to get back started (blindly) the passenger side may have been the same way if i had not pulled the liner?
I got her all put back together on Saturday and she sounds much better now. so i am satisfied with what i did.
as for the fender liner...even tho it was kind of a pain i think i would pull it agian to get the passenger side valve cover off. for those considering this just make sure you look at it's orientation before you pull it so you'll save some headaches when putting it back in.
That back bolt on the driver side was a pain to get back started (blindly) the passenger side may have been the same way if i had not pulled the liner?
Meanwhile, I'd just run the engine the way it is until you have time to work on it. If your valve stem seals are leaking a little bit it won't hurt anything. You might loose a little boost but it shouldn't be too noticeable. You might get a puff of smoke upon start up but should clear up when the engine gets to operating temps.
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