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THIS WILL BE ODD

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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 10:21 AM
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corytcline
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THIS WILL BE ODD

CAN ANYBODY ON HERE TELL ME IF A CHEVY VALVE IS LONGER THAN A FORD VALVE FOR SAY A 350 COMPARED TO A 302??? AND IF A VALVE PART NUMBER OF SEA V-1926 IS FAMILIAR. CAN'T FIND INFO ON THIS ANYWHERE!
 
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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I used 350sbc 1.94 valves instead of the 1.84 valves I had in my 302, and the SBC valves had to be cut down to fit the 302 length.

The part # doesn't ring a bell to me.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust
I used 350sbc 1.94 valves instead of the 1.84 valves I had in my 302, and the SBC valves had to be cut down to fit the 302 length.

The part # doesn't ring a bell to me.
same valves that I have in my 302 but not aware of the cutting down part if mine were cut down my machine guy didn't mention or charge for it. My problem lies with my pushrods though. I think I may have pushrods that are to long, was told stock size is around 6.8" to 6.9" I have 7.1" in it now, I think they are to long due to the fact that when tightened down I can not spin them like I can in other motors. Talked to comp cams guy and he said if my valves were longer that would call for longer pushrod. Can you tell me what size you used? Scared to start my motor till I figure this out
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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corytcline,

Seems to me that if your new valves are longer than the originals, you will need shorter push rods, not longer, and that change will affect the original valve geometry.

I'm sure smarter people than me will chime in to help!

Cheers,

John
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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7.1 sounds way too long, stock size for non rail rockers is 6.804. and grinding down the ends of the valves is routine on a valvejob, but you might want to ask your machinist if he did or not.

I would grab a caliper and do a quick measure of the installed height of your springs, and if you have an old pushrod laying around, build a pushrod length checker with some 1/4" all-thread and some locknuts.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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at muscletruck I have a pushrod checker I bought from jeggs that is how we came up with 7.1 BUT I am convinced I did not do it correctly if you could tell me how to use the checker correctly I will give it another try. I do still have the pushrods that came out of the motor when rebuilt, I tried them and they seemed to be to short but again I am new to this it is my first try at rebuilding a motor.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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Here's a link to manleys catalog http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/2011/valves.pdf
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by corytcline
same valves that I have in my 302 but not aware of the cutting down part if mine were cut down my machine guy didn't mention or charge for it.
What year is the 302 engine? Do you know what vehicle it came from?

SEA V-1926 is not a Ford part number. The basic Ford part number for valves: 6505 = exhaust / 6507 = intake. Pushrods are basic number 6565.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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you just tighten it up untill you feel a little resistance and measure, the part that alot of people miss is that you need to use a solid lifter. if i remember right you can take a hydraulic lifter apart and flip the plunger over but i will need to check on that. also make sure that where the rocker touches the valve tip it is in the center (which would be the correct geometry)
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Bill: the motor is a 85 302 with dip stick in block not sure what it came out of but have been told trucks and broncos had rear sump pan in that time frame. Its not a ford part number on the valves due to they are chevy valves 1.94. was told this was a common thing to do but I know nothing.

musceltruck:so I bring it up on number one top dead center then put the checker in and tighten till resistance felt and centered on the rocker. I would have to take the intake back off to mess with the lifters right?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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Strokers Wild: Part 1
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:22 PM
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just as long as your on the base circle on the cam you will be fine, and yeah unfortunately to mess with the lifter the intake will have to come off
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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my lifters dont have the roller on the bottom like the ones in the link you sent they just look like a short round cylinder does that mean they are solid lifters?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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tighten until resistance.

Do a pattern check on top of valve and make sure your rockerarms aren't touching the valve retainer. Pull rocker arm off and clean off top of valve stem then get a black sharpe and mark top of valve stem. install rocker arm/pushrod back on engine and adjust, then roll engine over by hand. once you do a revolution check and see if pattern is centered on top of valve stem. It will show exactly what you valve is doing its movement on top of valve stem. If pattern not centered your push rod length isn't correct. longer/shorter pushrod will be needed to get rocker centered on top of valve. Once centered your valve guide life will last a lot longer. This is what i do once I got everything set up. Its not correct until pattern and rocker clearance and coil bind issues are checked. Need to make sure your valve retainer isn't touching at all on rocker. tedious process but necessary. Good luck and hope you get figured out.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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going to pull the valve cover and take a bunch of pics and give it a shot I don't even know what the valve retainer is so luck is what I need will keep everyone posted
 
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