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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #16  
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sorry everyone been busy lately and have not had much time for the truck.
Thanks wyoming4x4 just read your post again today and will try that I assume the valve retainer is the washer like thing around the valve tip? I put the stock pushrod back in the number one cylinder and rotated by hand pushrod was really sloppy and never got good compresion out of that piston a friend suggested the pushrod may be to short to open the valve enough to get compression, is that possible? Gonna try the sharpie thing.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by corytcline
sorry everyone been busy lately and have not had much time for the truck.
Thanks wyoming4x4 just read your post again today and will try that I assume the valve retainer is the washer like thing around the valve tip? I put the stock pushrod back in the number one cylinder and rotated by hand pushrod was really sloppy and never got good compresion out of that piston a friend suggested the pushrod may be to short to open the valve enough to get compression, is that possible? Gonna try the sharpie thing.

I'm no whizz so don't quote me, but shouldn't compression be tested when both valves are closed???? Just before TDC? I would think that valve length wouldn't have much to do with compression unless they are too long and then opening prematurely? which would reduce compression readings
 
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 01:16 AM
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Corytcline is this an engine that has been rebuilt but not started?
If so that could account for the play in your pushrod because there is no oil in your lifter. Some people recommend that you place the lifter in oil and depress the plunger a couple of times until you see no more air bubbles come out of it.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by notmyrealname
Corytcline is this an engine that has been rebuilt but not started?
If so that could account for the play in your pushrod because there is no oil in your lifter. Some people recommend that you place the lifter in oil and depress the plunger a couple of times until you see no more air bubbles come out of it.
yes it has been rebuilt and not started yet. so is it safe to start with the play in the pushrods or will I need to break it back down to get the air bubbles out of the lifter?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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I would break it down and verify that is the reason before you start it because you still may have an incorrect length pushrod
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Pedestal rockers or studs?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #22  
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not sure of the correct name but they are the non adjustable style if that helps any I will get a picture on here in a few
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 07:53 PM
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I have hooked a drill up to the oil pump and ran it until oil came out of the top of all of the rockers as well
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 08:07 PM
  #24  
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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From: oklahoma



 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #26  
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Okay, your stock pushrod should be 6.881". It is obviously not correct. Your problem is not simple because of the variables. You have Chevy valves which are shorter than stock ford valves. This will make you need a longer pushrod than stock. However you have a rebuilt engine that may or may not have had the heads shaved, which would require a shorter pushrod. You're not sure if your 7.1" measurement is accurate. Your solution may be as simple as shimming the pedestal rockers if your 7.1" pushrod is close. Or you may have to get a shorter pushrod, there are too variables for an easy answer.
shim kit Ford Racing M-6529-A302 - Ford Racing Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 04:34 PM
  #27  
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THE 7.1 rod must be close as I can turn the motor over by hand with no binding so I'm gonna go the shim route. never done it though where do the shims go exactly?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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if it can be done to the heads chances are its been done spent a total of $1200.00 at machine shop on them think I got screwed though somewhere down the line, could have had aluminum heads for that kind of money. Oh well it is what it is.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 05:01 PM
  #29  
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$1200 for the heads? Yeah they saw you coming.
The shims go under the sled assembly. Here's a video I found YouTube - ‪Valve lash adjustment on a 5.0L with pedestal rockers‬‏
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 09:44 PM
  #30  
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thanks for all of your info yes they saw me coming on the heads my cousin did what he claimed to be 850.oo worth said he ruined two sets before he got it right guesse that was my fault because I paid for them then when I got them back still had to take them to another machine shop to get the springs and valves and all put on cost me another 350.00. I got five long years and over five grand in this thing if it fails at start up I'm gonna cry
 
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