When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
sorry everyone been busy lately and have not had much time for the truck.
Thanks wyoming4x4 just read your post again today and will try that I assume the valve retainer is the washer like thing around the valve tip? I put the stock pushrod back in the number one cylinder and rotated by hand pushrod was really sloppy and never got good compresion out of that piston a friend suggested the pushrod may be to short to open the valve enough to get compression, is that possible? Gonna try the sharpie thing.
sorry everyone been busy lately and have not had much time for the truck.
Thanks wyoming4x4 just read your post again today and will try that I assume the valve retainer is the washer like thing around the valve tip? I put the stock pushrod back in the number one cylinder and rotated by hand pushrod was really sloppy and never got good compresion out of that piston a friend suggested the pushrod may be to short to open the valve enough to get compression, is that possible? Gonna try the sharpie thing.
I'm no whizz so don't quote me, but shouldn't compression be tested when both valves are closed???? Just before TDC? I would think that valve length wouldn't have much to do with compression unless they are too long and then opening prematurely? which would reduce compression readings
Corytcline is this an engine that has been rebuilt but not started?
If so that could account for the play in your pushrod because there is no oil in your lifter. Some people recommend that you place the lifter in oil and depress the plunger a couple of times until you see no more air bubbles come out of it.
Corytcline is this an engine that has been rebuilt but not started?
If so that could account for the play in your pushrod because there is no oil in your lifter. Some people recommend that you place the lifter in oil and depress the plunger a couple of times until you see no more air bubbles come out of it.
yes it has been rebuilt and not started yet. so is it safe to start with the play in the pushrods or will I need to break it back down to get the air bubbles out of the lifter?
Okay, your stock pushrod should be 6.881". It is obviously not correct. Your problem is not simple because of the variables. You have Chevy valves which are shorter than stock ford valves. This will make you need a longer pushrod than stock. However you have a rebuilt engine that may or may not have had the heads shaved, which would require a shorter pushrod. You're not sure if your 7.1" measurement is accurate. Your solution may be as simple as shimming the pedestal rockers if your 7.1" pushrod is close. Or you may have to get a shorter pushrod, there are too variables for an easy answer.
shim kit Ford Racing M-6529-A302 - Ford Racing Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
THE 7.1 rod must be close as I can turn the motor over by hand with no binding so I'm gonna go the shim route. never done it though where do the shims go exactly?
if it can be done to the heads chances are its been done spent a total of $1200.00 at machine shop on them think I got screwed though somewhere down the line, could have had aluminum heads for that kind of money. Oh well it is what it is.
thanks for all of your info yes they saw me coming on the heads my cousin did what he claimed to be 850.oo worth said he ruined two sets before he got it right guesse that was my fault because I paid for them then when I got them back still had to take them to another machine shop to get the springs and valves and all put on cost me another 350.00. I got five long years and over five grand in this thing if it fails at start up I'm gonna cry