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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 1994F2507.3L
are those three studs there a PITA to get the nuts off of?
The drivers side and top nut are easy. The one on the passenger side is a pain as I recall...
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #17  
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The drivers side one was the toughest for me. Mod the wrench like I told you and you will be fine.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #18  
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Ahhh, maybe that's right....
Now that you mention it, the return line sitting on the intake manifold was a clearance issue with the "standard" wrench
I was thinking of tightening down some of the injector lines....dang, mixing up my stories...
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:43 PM
  #19  
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Ya, both were a pain to tighten. I guess it can really depend on where the bolt is situated on the stud also.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #20  
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Can someone post a picture of this modified wrench?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #21  
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Are the U-haul pumps just as good as a new one? What about their injectors?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 12:14 PM
  #22  
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I don't think anyone makes new IP's so the pump depends on the rebuilder. All pumps from U-haul have been rebuilt by great rebuilders so far. Injectors are from U-haul are rebuilt and I've heard good things about those as well. Can't find a pic of that wrench but its quite simple really. Just flatten the closed end side with a grinder so it can get around the nut. Imagine a closed end side of a wrench that is 1/8 inch thick.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #23  
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Oh, OK. That seems simple. It would probably help quite a bit if my grinder wasn't 2000 miles away. Man, that's going to be a long walk. I better get started now.

I assume I can keep my core, right? Is it hard to rebuild an injection pump? If not, I could have a rebuilt spare if I ever needed it and for little money.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 12:53 PM
  #24  
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If you get it from U-haul, there is no core meaning you keep it. Yes you could have it rebuilt, its gonna be about the same as buying a rebuilt pump though.

A grinder is as close as your local tool store.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #25  
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Eaton,

This post has pictures of Wrecks' IP wrench (and his clean fingernails too! lol) The pics of my wrenches, later in the post, are not for an IP, but I'll give anyone extra credit points if they can figure out what they were for!

Good luck!

Mac.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ht=replacement
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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Thats where it was!

 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #27  
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A modified wrench isn't "really" necessary, it just makes the job easier and it feels more satisfying being able to get the nuts really tight.
I've gotten by several times with a standard wrench using the open end.
As for making a wrench, I use the open end and I just ground the handle down where it hits the intake manifold. Once you get to that point, it's very easy to see what to do to make a wrench work.

Holy crap Wreck, my fingers aren't even that clean after I wash them or get out of the shower!

I'm stumped with those wrenches...I can't think of anything that takes a 9/16" and needs that serious of a curved handle.
The injector lines are 5/8". Unless those are for the fan...
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 10:59 PM
  #28  
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Not the fan!

Heres a hint,

The motor was siezed!

Mac.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 06:56 AM
  #29  
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well guys i had to go on a 4 hour trip last night and i didn't get a chance to change the pump.... so i took the filter off dumped the diesel back in the tank and filled the filter up with diesel kleen and dumped the rest in the tank and off i went..... she came outta it and is driving fine once again....
 
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 09:56 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by akamacgyver
Heres a hint,

The motor was siezed!

Mac.
was it to get the tc nuts off i know what a pain it is to pull a locked up engine i had to cut a mangled con rod with a dremel tool once so i could turn the crank to get to them off took some time but it worked
 
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