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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #1  
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Bolt question

What kind of bolts should i use when i start putting my truck back together? and i would love specific answers if you guys would help.

also do which ones do i need to locktite and red or blue.

1)engine
2)body
3)suspension)


any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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This is what I'm using on mine...

1.) ARP Fasteners Complete Kit but this was for my engine from the dark side.

2.) Currently using just bulk bolts... But when I finish body work and paint I will be using a SS body kit (complete kit of all body bolts).

3.) Suspension parts I have just replaced each bolt that I find bad with a bolt of the same kind... I would love to see what others are using and wish to find a kit for that too...
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 04:07 PM
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I used grade 8 on everything, I know this is overkill , but so what.
No locktite on anything, just lock washers.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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I would re-use any OEM bolts you can, they are far superior to anything you can buy short of going to ARP or Fastenal and buying specialty fasteners. Loctite didn't exist when these trucks were built (at least in the automotive world).
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 05:02 PM
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Well fastenal is no problem. What kind of fasteners though?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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I guess we're not quite sure what you're getting at. If you put back the same kind of fasteners you took out, you will be fine. Suspension fasteners are usually somewhat specialized. You're not going to find replacement king pins at The Home Depot.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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When I start my rebuild should I use the same bolt stlyes that came out of it? If so should I go grade 8 or stainless or what?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 06:15 PM
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Body bolts? As many of them as there are on the front end of a BonusBuilt, you could use #8 stove bolts and it would be fine. I would guess most people buy a box of cad-plated Grade 5 5/16-UNC x 3/4 and call it good. Henry liked UNF, maybe for vibration resistance, or to save on lockwashers. (Probably the latter)
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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I buy my bolts in bulk at the local Big R store, which is a farm and ranch supply store. Grade 5 or 8, but just the zinc plated for body and non stressed apps. I loctite everything. You'll pay thru the nose if you buy them in blister packs at the lumber yard.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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I'm a parts person and one of my #1 venders is fastenal and I have a great relationship with my guy. I can get anything that's why I'm asking.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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I get all my nuts and bolts from a mining supply company. Any kind, size, or type imaginable, they have them. All the places I removed factory rivets I replaced with grade 8. In a few places, if they were in good shaped, I wire wheeled and reused the originals.
After all, this truck is 61 years old and it held together this long with what it came with.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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stainless for NON pressure/load bearing applications (18-8 or 316 if you want to spend more $$), STOCK bolts on suspension/body mount and grade 5 or 8 on everything else unless you want to use stainless.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 05:39 AM
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From: concord nc
is there a certain kind that would look better under the body than. bolt washer, body, washer, lock washer, nut?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 05:53 AM
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It is important to note that most stainless steel bolts do NOT have the load rating to be used in anything that will carry stress or load. Just a heads up as most stainless is rated less than a grade 5 bolt.

jim
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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I agree with hellfirejim. SS has too many problems like low strength and galling upon removal. I would go with black grade 8 and paint over them with whatever you are going to paint the truck with.

Blue locktite and lockwashers are sufficient and original design fasteners are much better than what you can buy today unless you go specialty.

My trucks fasteners as they came off are in good shape and I plan on using as many of them as I can. The nuts and boltheads are much thicker as are the lockwashers. I don't know the strength rating of the original stuff but it was sufficient to last 60 years w/o significant degradation.
 
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