Every time I pull a part something else comes up! I am getting this sneaking suspicion I'm going to be pulling this motor.

 

That might make it run a little rough,L.O.L. I believe i would pull it and take it completely apart if i found that in one of mine,good luck. JIM

 

Yeah it's time for you to cut bait and fix the boat. I still have nightmares over your rat condo pictures from last week. How long ago did you say that truck was parked? Was it ?1964?

 

yea ran great when parked in 64.

I just don't have the facilities to do what needs to be done. I was kinda hoping foolishly that i could get her going without a full tear down.

 

Hey a little JB Weld and you should be good to go.

 

If you're completely broke and needing to get it on the road then I say go for it. Check out the valve seat, if it looks ok then buy (beg, borrow, or steal) a valve, lap it in a bit and put it back together.
It'll work, sure, it might not be perfect but very few things in this world are. These old engines are tough and despite all the hotshots on TV telling you that these things won't run unless they are assembled in a clean room at Intel, they will run just fine.

Sometimes budget trumps all

Bobby

 

well now my 52 customline 2 door was parked in 66 and had a spanking grand total of 700 miles racked up on it during that period , but was motionless for the latter part of the 70's all the way till last year when i got it ..... and outside of the wiring going kaput it runs fantastic . i can go up to buds house put the key in the igntion and boom . just cant wander off as the wiring isn't done yet .................... my 53 if i hadn't decided to do what i'm doing ran fine other than wiring , and bad valvesprings ...... so i geuss sometimes ya get lucky , some times ya don't . at least you can do the flatty up like you want from the get go now .

 

Was that 1864??

 

Hate to say it, but it may not be simple. If this is the original engine, it should have hard valve seat inserts. It looks like maybe that one is broken (around 2:00 in the picture)? I can't think what would cause a valve to break that way, except for someone trying to pull a stuck valve up with a crowbar. It would take some force to do that!

 

hades it'd be just as cheap to buy one from eric at go cat speed shop or from dennis carpenter then to be fixing it after i think about it ......... especially now that ross pointed out the broken seat {s} ................. i have been wanting to get a 276 from eric , complete and ready to go for like 4000 but every time i start to save something else pops up or breaks so ...................

 

I don't have x-ray vision but I'm with Albuq on this one. I'd bet a dollar this is neither your only or worst problem. The demon that left tooth marks like that is probably still in there. Personally, I'd take my medicine and yank 'er out fer da rebuild. I would be curious to learn if Bobby T's, or other cheap solutions works tho if you wanted to try.

 

Based on the amount of mud in the cooling passages, it definitely needs to be vatted at least once, maybe a couple of times, to get that junk out of there. A good soaking will give a better idea of what else is wrong.

 

My friends in the marine business are telling me that hard valve seats in older engines are over-rated. These guys are pretty knowledgeable. The word is that if you want sustained high rpm engine operation (by that they mean over 6000 rpm), then yes...change the valve seats. For normal operation, they're saying to grind the seats & leave them alone.

For this one it'd be interesting to replace the valve & try to run the engine before making expensive decisions.

 

Well. After mulling it over for a day I think I'm going to take out the valves, clean it all up, check the seats and replace any damaged valves. Slap it back together, see what happens. If it blows, or doesn't run well. I will be saying hello to a 302!

 

That engine needs to be pulled, hot tanked and magnifluxed for cracks - Only then will you be sure what needs to be done