eot vs. ect
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No,they didn't.out of warranty and the egr cooler cost me 2600 to do.the tech said the spread wasn't to bad,so instead of a 3400 dollar bill I opted for the latter.I should've deleted it,but I wasn't sure what was wrong.that was two years ago.so now I'm at this point,and if worse comes to worse,which it probably will,ill do the oil cooler rebuild,or replace.
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From: Anderson, SC
I have a quick question. My temps vary a good bit while I'm driving, but normally my EOTs run between 189-202 with no load (depending on how aggressive I drive that day) and my ECTs normally stay in the 180s but do get in the mid to upper 90s when my EOT hits 200+. But is this generally too low? On the interstate they both run high 90s to low 200s. Just curious if my t-stat may need to be replaced.
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From: Anderson, SC
Thanks man.
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Just got my insight CTS last week. Drove the beast down to Lake of the Ozarks last weekend and saw EOT as high as 220 and ECT200. Most of the time the spread was 17-18 degress. Called the dealer on Monday and they claim this is a normal spread and weren't concerned about 220 EOT. He also said my check engine light would let me know if I had a problem!!!!! Im worried ive got an oil cooler problem in the making. Think i should take it elsewhere and have it replaced?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Oregon
Just got my insight CTS last week. Drove the beast down to Lake of the Ozarks last weekend and saw EOT as high as 220 and ECT200. Most of the time the spread was 17-18 degress. Called the dealer on Monday and they claim this is a normal spread and weren't concerned about 220 EOT. He also said my check engine light would let me know if I had a problem!!!!! Im worried ive got an oil cooler problem in the making. Think i should take it elsewhere and have it replaced?
Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.
To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.
Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.
Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.
Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.
Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.
After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.
Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.
new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LI33024-GB.pdf
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Oregon
Can't remember one is around $28 and the other $32 but you must use the Restore first this removes all the slim and goo then the Restore+ this removes the minerals sometimes it will take up to 32+ gallons of distilled water about .62 cents a gallon.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Iv been running soft water from the house with all the casting sand and junk figured the type of water wasnt to big a deal but am getting ready to change the oil cooler maybe ill switch back
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From: Oregon
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I have the 03 and there have been very few of those egr coolers blow I may just use a sneaky pipe or something op said to weld it IDK its still good
as far as the coolant filter I have had 1 plug when I cut it open there was a little casting sand but not what I thought I would find
as far as the coolant filter I have had 1 plug when I cut it open there was a little casting sand but not what I thought I would find