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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:33 PM
  #1  
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From: morton
downpipe

just found diamond eye 3inch stainless down pipe for my truck for104 bucks shipped after begging my wife its on the way lol any tips on install would be nice
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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Down pipe instructions

Hope this PDF below helps did a 3-4 in DP to a 4 in diamond eye yesterday went real smooth Good Luck !
 
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Last edited by Oslo; Apr 10, 2011 at 09:04 PM. Reason: forgot
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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When I changed mine i ended up cutting the stock down pipe off with a sawzall in order to get it out. I cut it right up by the turbo where it curves into a 90. other than that you gotta flatten out the pinch weld in the firewall so the larger pipe will clear, its not too hard.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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thanks guys that write up is great goin fron that to five inch straight pipe i hope she sounds good
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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Sawzall to get it out. Port a power or a small vehicle jack stand with an impact wrench to make room for it. Then you should be golden.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 12:19 AM
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Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has to bet, LOL. Porta power is the way to go.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 04:24 AM
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Anything other than a torch, to remove the DP: Exhaust removal gone horrible. - Ford Diesel Power Forums
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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I just did this last weekend. Porta power is your friend. When you think you have the firewall bent back far enough, take five and come back and try again because you'll need the extra room.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
I just did this last weekend. Porta power is your friend. When you think you have the firewall bent back far enough, take five and come back and try again because you'll need the extra room.
That is the facts. I have to make some more room for mine...
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JamesHajek
That is the facts. I have to make some more room for mine...
It seems that I made just enough room for my down pipe not to rub, but man it's close. The trouble I had is the first few strokes of the porta power would bend the pinch weld, but after that it was just lifting the cab off the frame. I cranked on it pretty good though, and it seems to be fine. I'd be happy to bring my porta power to the dyno if you'll be there James so you can work on yours a little more.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
It seems that I made just enough room for my down pipe not to rub, but man it's close. The trouble I had is the first few strokes of the porta power would bend the pinch weld, but after that it was just lifting the cab off the frame. I cranked on it pretty good though, and it seems to be fine. I'd be happy to bring my porta power to the dyno if you'll be there James so you can work on yours a little more.
I wish I could say I was able to come. I don't think I'll be making it though.

Thanks for the offer though man. I appreciate it.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
It seems that I made just enough room for my down pipe not to rub, but man it's close. The trouble I had is the first few strokes of the porta power would bend the pinch weld, but after that it was just lifting the cab off the frame. I cranked on it pretty good though, and it seems to be fine. I'd be happy to bring my porta power to the dyno if you'll be there James so you can work on yours a little more.
Four ton or ten ton Chase? I've gotta get one soon for multiple projects.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pjwoolw
Four ton or ten ton Chase? I've gotta get one soon for multiple projects.
4 ton, didn't think the 10 ton would be necessary. $90 at Harbor Freight.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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lol you can always put on a 3" body lift like i did it eliminates the need to mess with your floor pan
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 03:33 PM
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wish i could do body lift but im pretty sure that soft touch savings and loan aka the wife has cut off my spending for a while lol its on the list of things i want to do
 
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